KrazyKid's race car hauler.

This all started with Recone’s 21 foot RV frame and axles I picked up from him and Underboosted dumped off at my house.

Plans are: 18’ bed, 2’ dovetail in the rear for lowered cars/trucks. 96" wide total bed space. Side in/out rear ramps. Aluminum lockable storage box up front for tools, and equipment. Winch for dead cars. Removable heavy duty wheel fenders, for wide trucks so they can drive over the fenders. A frame tire rack up front, with some shelves on each side for aerosol cans and fluid containers, and a shelf across the rack to work on track side. Sheet the sides of the rack for sponsor logos! lol. New LED lights, new wiring.

Basicly making this: http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/heavy-equipment-trailer-store/Single-Car-Haulers/18-Ft,-8,000-lb.-Diamond-Single-Car-Hauler-p65.html but with more stuff.

(insert pic here)

Went shopping at the RedNeck Trailer Supply in Clifton Park Friday. Picked up all the new goodies for the trailer. That place is great, they have EVERYTHING you can think of trailer related, and are dirt cheap too. $300 later I walked out with:
2X S/T/T LED lights for the rear
LED identification light bar (trailer over 80” wide needs one)
4 red and 4 amber clearance lights
2 license plate lights
100 ft of bonded 4 wire 16ga.
Flat 4 trailer plug pig tail
4x 10Klbs weld on D ring clevis for tie down points
4x 3300lb heavy duty ratchet straps
2X tandem axle fenders
5Klbs tongue jack

Then it was off to see my friends at the Steel Supermarket. It must be bad when they know you by name, and know what projects I have going on when I walk in! lol Great guys and Gal, there BTW, go get your metals from them!!! $150 later I walked out with 2x2x1/4” angle iron, 2” square tube for frame extensions, big hunk of 3/8” plate, bunch of 1/8th plates for clearance light mounts, 1/4 plate for frame extension gussets, 4” ¼ flat stock for cross supports under the trailer to get rid of some of the flex.

Started it this weekend.
We plasma’d all the junk off it; the old plumbing, busted ass side steps, LP tank shelf, bent ass frame extensions hanging off the sides, ream bumper, and the busted jack off the front.

Then we welded in extra cross braces. Used 2"X2" 1/4 wall angle steel. Found one of the stock cross braces was out of square, they welded it on the wrong side of their line at the factory, so we cut it off and fixed that. Cut the last 2 foot section of the frame for a dove tail angle, welded it back on then cut out scab plates out of 3/8” plate and welded them in the frame rails to strengthen up the dove tail. Then I welded in a new jack up front, and fully welded the tongue plate to the frame better than the factory did. Cut a custom maltese cross jack foot and burned that on the jack.

So far the total bill is $650. Shooting for $1K to complete the project. A trailer like this is well over $3K with everything we are putting on it so we are in great shape. The sheet will be the expensive part. I got quotes a few weeks back, and can’t remember what they are off the top of my head. We plan on going heavy duty expanded steel for the tire tread sections of the bed. The grate is ¼” thick and is used to support low boy trailers for heavy equipment. Then the center section of the bed will be regular 1/8” diamond plate steel for walking on and parking atv’s, dirtbikes, tractors and what ever else.

I will take some pics later and post them up too.

Why did you get a flat trailer plug?

I dunno… isnt that all i need? :ninja

You need a 7 way(the round one). Otherwise you won’t be able to hook up the brakes. If you don’t have the brakes hooked up but they are on the trailer you’ll get a nice fine from DOT.

Fuck, I didnt have a clue how to wire them up, and was putting it off until I got the lights and shit on.

Thanks for the heads up. Now that i think about it ill just crawl under my dads camper and look at how its wired up and copy that.

thanks! big ol+1 to you.

Yeah the law used to be that you could run them disconnected as long as the load was under 4K lbs. Now they don’t give a fuck and write the tickets regardless.

Make sure his wiring is standardized, If it’s not and you wire the trailer to his wiring, you’ll fry the wiring in any other vehicle it’s hooked to the first time you step on the brakes.

you can find the standardized 7 pole wiring diagrams online.

Good deal on the trailer. register in Maine when all said and done(trust me, do it) All but the 55 footer enclosed here is a modifed or homebuilt trailer in one sense or another and are registered there.

Nice Adam… thanks!

Yeah ill look up the wiring diagram asap. Do I need a PO box or some shit in maine to register it there? how the ef does that work?

Not sure if you can still get away with registering the trailer in Maine. My father inlaw used to do it and got a lot of grief from DMV about it and had to reg all of his in NY. Also if your going to get an NY title get your bare bones frame together with the lights and scale it. If the trailer weights more than 1000 pounds you have to have the welds inspected before they will issue you a title and registration which is a major pain in the ass. Easiest thing to do is make the bare minimum to get it down the road legally weight it, register it and then add your decking and other stuff.

We have been plugging away at this thing little by little and finished the framing 2 weeks ago. all 3"X3" 1/4" angle iron 2 foot on center across the two rails. 2" square 1/4" wall tube every 2 feet to widen the bed to 90" wide. 2"X1/4" flat bar down the sides to tie it all in and make places to mount lights. Back bumper is 2X6 3/8" square.

All new wiring. New brake-away box and battery for safety. New clearance lights, LED Stop/Turn/Tail and ID lights on the back. Fully welded coupler, gussetted front triangle.

I whiped up a sweet license plate box and lights for it out of 16ga.

Last week we got all the sheet to finish the trailer. 1/8" steel diamond sheet for the center and heavy duty raised expanded metal for the tire treads. They will provide nice grip and traction and save a little weight on the trailer. CRD and I cut and burned it in last night. My back was killing me around 11:00 so I ran out of juice and had the last two 2’X8’ tire treads to weld in on the front I will have to do soon.

Here it is as of this AM.

Dont mind the hacked up fenders, they were sectioned too short, so I had to add a piece back in and try again. the welds will be ground down and bondo’d smooth and re sprayed.

Shows the dove-tail out back and a nice shot at the bed and sheet how it lays.

And the coolest piece I made for it: Maltese cross jack foot!

Ohh yeah I cut out some 1/2" plate for the D ring mounting flanges. 8Klbs rated per ring.

I also have some smaller D rings 500lb’s rated, I will add to the side 2X flat par for tie down points for lighter duty stuff. Dirt bikes, quads, coolers, chairs, tool boxes…

wow looking 100% better from when we put the ranger up on it!

As always, SUPER impressive work.

motherfuckin rock krawler! hahaha lookin good mike thats for sure:thumbup

Those fenders look pretty tall, I highly recommend you make at least the drivers side one removable so you have a chance of opening your door to get out once you drive up. Also, how the ramps attach?

Yeah they are kinda tall, but thats mostly becasue the bed is low and the tires are big so there wasnt really any way around it I guess. Fenders arnt removable. they are welded in and acutally have heavy supports for them to tie in the side rails. It is what it is, if you have to dukes of hazard out of the car so be it. lol

The ramps will attach to heavy lips on the back bumper. I am going to bend up some 1/2" thick X 1" flat stock into a U shape and weld it on the back one on each side. then the ramps will just have a L shaped lip on the end to drop onto and sit on the U shaped guys on the bumper. then make a little rail under neath the trailer on the side to slide the ramps in and pin them for storage. The other idea was to just cut a 1" slot out of the expanded metal on the back where it mounts to the bumper, but it would weaken it a little and not look as clean. 1/2" X 1" U’s I think are plenty strong thats for sure.

Nice work man!!!

Looking good. How long are the ramps you’re going to be using?

Mike this turned out great compared to what it use to be.

Common way to do it :slight_smile:

Just buy some steel channel. They make it in that size. I probably have some here if you’d need a couple small lengths.

If you plan to have a wedge base on the end of the ramp that contacts the ground(to make a low of a drive on edge as possible) consider pinning the ramps to the deck. Pending truck hitch height and/or loading angle of the whole truck + trailer you can sometime end up with ramps that pop up off the lip when loading/unloading.

This happens to Jason Micares’ two car, because the ramp base angle is not meant for the trailer deck height. Ask him what he almost did to the JP car one track day :lol

If you just square off the ends of the ramps and use wood or similar to lessen then approach edge, then you won’t have this problem, but will just have to keep some shim boards in the truck.

Shit paint sketch: Jay’s ramps on two car are on top, single car ramp style on bottom. can see the issue with top ones on pavement if not pinned.

My ramps are like the ones on the bottom. I keep a couple of short cuts of wood in the toolbox on the trailer for low cars. Works fine.