Yup. Most of the time you’re using boards to get low cars on anyway so it’s never an issue. Just wasn’t sure what ramp style he was shooting for.
Although I did watch jammer drive away from the shop with ramps left down one day. Ground some of the angle right into them :lol
I ended up making the ramps out of 1X4 3/16th box for the side rails and 1x1x3/16th for the cross braces one ever foot. ramps are 46" long by 18" wide.
I leveled the trailer and then scribed the ground, cut it and then scribed the bumper and cut that. they both lay flush.
Then came up with a simple secure way to mount them.
made up some simple tabs out of 3/8th’s and drilled them out to a little bigger than the dia of a reciever hitch pin. clamped them to the ramp with a piece of 16 ga sheet between them for a little play & clearance and tacked them to the trailer and burned them home.
I didnt drill the ramp yet so they arent pinned in the pic. but you get the idea. I am also going to take some extra diamond plate and bend it at the break over angle from the ramp to the dove tail for a smooth transistion and to keep the steel mesh from deforming at the brake over on the ramp. then i will drill a single hole out on that plate for the same reciever pin to secure the ramps under the trailer in their slide in holders.
these wont be kicking out or poping off. :thumbup
looks real nice. alot nicer than the pro built trailer we used to have for the dart drag car.
Those are some short ramps
thats also going to do some weird shit when you load a car on there and the back of the trailer tries to lower down and the ramps won’t let it pivot.
+1 to that. They get thrashed around when loading. You’re probably going to want some more support than just the pins for the ramps. And the the mesh/net is probably going to want some more support underneath it if you’re loading cars.
Impressive. Very.
That mesh is strong shit. Its like 3/16th thick itself. Metal Supermarket built a low-boy trailer with it and they spaced the supports 2 foot on center and it holds heavy equiptment just fine. We ran the ramp over as you see it with CRD’s F250 5.4L… it didnt deform at all. :thumbup
They can still pivot a bit. the edge of the ramp to the trailer bumper is around 1/4" when its pinned. the only movement that would upset the fitment when it loads or unloads would be suspension flex, and that would only drop the bumper a few inches tops. If the bed angle changes enough to bind the ramps up, I am going to have a BIG dent in the truck’s tailgate casue that ment the hitch came loose! We also thought of 2 camper jacks out back, so keep the bed from lowering at all. that way the truck’s hitch and the axles and the rv jacks would keep the bed inplace perfectly. but i think it might be over kill at this point
check it out… shit works!
dont judge the ramp angle there. the grass slopes down and the toung is low becasue we were working on the car as you see it there. On flat ground the ramps are perfect. we put this car on it (pushed we might add) and it wasnt bad at all! WINCH is next!!! never the less the break over points are far from the rockers. the drivers door opens and clears the fender. Its money!
nice work bro!!! now all you need is a truck to tow it!
One problem with that is you don’t know where the load is centered on the truck, and if you’re putting a winch on it you NEED to check out my trailer. I put a pretty sick winch setup on it. Wayne can verify.
Did you find a place to put the ramps at on the trailer while not in use?
Yea cars sitting a bit forward a few feet if it was towed like that.
god damn winch setup is the tits. let me know when it’s time to upgrade trailers bro. i need that.
thanks man! yeah I need a new truck!!!
What do you mean load centered on the truck?
I thought about the winch setup and need to check out yours for sure. My idea was once I make the tire rack and work bench/tool storage shit on the front i would make a big plate and build it on the floor up there. then put a steel roller on the break over point ont he back of the trailer to allow the cable to slide over the break over point until the front of the car was high enough to get the cable off the bed. what do u think?
Neg not yet. I have some angle iron I was going to make slides for them to slide in under the trailer from the side of the trailer and hold in with the reciever pins I used to mount them to the tabs on the back bumper. But for now, huck them into the truck bed and call it a day.
yeah it is a bit forward… but I didnt personally load it… blame the noobie tow truckers My brother and CRD! lol
Just so you know we didn’t trailer it that far forward, it was centered on the trailer. Because we may be ams but we aren’t stupid. We just pushed it forward after we dropped it off because low and behold… the doors don’t open with a car parked where it should be on the trailer. This created a problem when the rain was coming so we pushed it forward. But good eye snipers and thanks for the advice…
+1 on underboosted knowing what the fuck he’s doing and having ballin equipment.
your trailer looks good, mike! i can’t comment much more than that having no idea what i’m talking about :lol
I sure as hell wouldnt be pulling that around with a Ranger.
I pulled a car on a dolly with an S10 and it was a slow ride because the truck was really straining, especially on hills and the car was a gutted and rotted to shit '89 Celica.
def want the bulk of the weight over the axles of the trailer… im not a professional at towing but i know a few things
