My wife’s car. 2003 Protege, royal blue. Not a spot of rust on it, except for the edge of a wheel well has 2 small spots, each about the size of a quarter, that are bubbled. I figure I’ll start by ordering a touch-up kit with some color-matched paint, primer, and clearcoat. Where can I get a good kit?
Once I’ve got the stuff I figure I’ll start with a disc sander on a drill and sand down to clean bare metal. Maybe 60 grit then 220 grit or that general ballpark, depending on what I’ve got in the drawer.
dont wet sand the primer. Paint still needs to “bite” in to the primer, it’s not a chemical bond. I think I took 600ish to the primer before I painted my quarter,and a piece already flaked off. I’m sure the rest is just barely holding on. try 300ish on the primer, then paint and smooth out the color
^^
he’s not putting on 2003 paint so unless she’s been out detailing the car every week (in which case no rust) then the new paint won’t exactly match and blending will be required.
I take it this is going for a “good enough” fix because that’s all you’ll get unless you spend more money then it would have cost to just take it somewhere.
If you plan on keepin the car then Priming over ANY rust at all wont do anything and it will come back.
Either cut/grind every last spec of rust off or use a rust converter product.
POR-15 has a good one called METAL_READY It is a converter and Zinc-Phosphate primer in one. The Zinc prevents further rusting. POR-15 paint must be used to seal the area.
There is also Rust Converter stuff at Autozone but I was not thrilled with its performance.
POR-15 paint absorbs moisture to cure and sucks it out of the affected area helping to disable the rust.
KS Auto on River Rd in Tonawanda has POR-15
Rust is like a cancer and it WILL continue to spread if its not completely removed or treated just right. If you are not keeping the car then whatever but in this climate you will probably see it back in 2 yrs.
If you dont use any of the products mentioned then I recommend you heat up the area with a propane torch to drive off moisture JUST before priming/sealing. There is a lot of moisture in the air (and embedded in metal pores) now. You need to heat it very lightly. You will see the color shade change a bit as the area warms up and a line will form. There will be a dry side and a side that is sweating moisture. Move the torch behind the line slowly till the dry are spreads as far as you need it.
Obviously don’t heat the panel more then needed. Seal both sides of the panel (very important)
^^
he’s not putting on 2003 paint so unless she’s been out detailing the car every week (in which case no rust) then the new paint won’t exactly match and blending will be required
Yeah it’s just a DD so no painting the whole panel, no taking it somewhere.
Violator thanks for the info. We’ll be keeping the car till it’s dead, so I’ll go with the rust destroyer. I was thinking I could just sand down to absolutely clean bare metal, but your way is probably more likely to have a fighting chance at success.
No it won’t be perfect, but given where it is I’m sure I can get close enough that it won’t be noticable.
So, can I get color-matching topcoat and clearcoat at the Mazda dealer or is there a better place to get stuff from?
Sphinx, I think I can handle this hog myself… But I never did get that scratch fully out of the Xterra. I may shoot you a PM closer to the weekend if you’re going to be around and wouldn’t mind working your magic on it.
u can get the paint at any paint store as long as u have the paint code (i usually go to Al-Will on transit) and clear its up to u, if u want to get the expensive stuff or the cheap one. expensive is obv. better and cheap… well yea lol
the topcoat will be your paint color whic any body shop can mix. The thing is that for every paint CODE (same identical color) there are several shades… depending on the factory the car was painted at, paint batch, ect… A body shop will have that info and should be capable of making a good match. Gerstner Collision on Main in Williamsville (by Transit) will do that for you. Ron is old and grumpy but he is a good guy. Treat him with respect and he will help you out.
por15 ftw, then do bodywork and paint…or replace the whole panel. but por15 is your cheapest most effective bet. I sell a TON of it where i work, you’ll just need the starter kit, will be sufficent enough.
