My Maxima dropped it’s programming to both my keys (I have a chip in my keys). Looks like only the Nissan dealer and a lock smith can get this fixed or tell me if my ECU somehow died. All of the Nissan dealers I’ve called are closed today…wtf? Either that or they just don’t answer their phones. The locksmiths I’ve called wanted like $200 to do this. Is that good?
Basically…the car just cranks and cranks. The other night when I got home and was closing my windows (all four at the same time), my navigation rebooted and the interior lights flashed (car stayed running though). The following morning, my car would not start. A couple of days before that, my security light was on while driving. So anyway, I got a new battery and alternator and put those in yesterday (battery was more preventive maintenance and alternator was the likely cause the other night). Before I put them in, I tried cranking the car to see if I could get into the garage. It started 3 times, but each time it only ran for a second or two before stalling. After that, it just cranked and cranked…so I went ahead and swapped the parts. Now, it also just cranks and cranks.
My brother-in-law told me to spray starter fluid inside my intake manifold while cranking and if the car starts it means either my ECU is toast or my keys need to be reprogrammed. I did that and the car did start, but again, stalled.
My fuel pump is priming, all of my fuses are good. My fuel filter is relatively new. ALL of the electronics in my car are operating normally.
Someone please help. I live in the middle of nowhere and need my car for the work week.
IIRC your max doesnt use a key with a chip in it? I could be wrong though
Anyways, when your turn the key once can you hear your pump prime? Usualy a little hum sound when key is on right befre you turn to start… Even if the chip in the key was dead, usualy they allow the car to start and even drive a bit, which is why some cars you see have a vallay key in case the vallay guy decides he wants to try and take your car for a spin he wont get very far
Are you getting spark/fuel? Can you smell gas, or hear the injectors firing?
Anyways keyfob for keyless entry isnt the same as a key with a chip in it, like I said I dont think yours uses that but i may be wrong…
If your key is bad, which I have no idea how the fuck that could happen uinless it came across some voltage is to bring it to the dealer and have them program you a new one.
and if your ECU was friend I do belive nothign in your car should be comming on
My pump is priming. What happens when the imobilizer dies is that the ECU won’t fire the injectors, hence the no start. When you spray starter fluid, it starts the car because the plugs are still trying to ignite from what I understand.
99’s are the first Maxima’s with the NATS system and chips. You can see it on the key itself.
My brother-in-law says any locksmith with this ‘machine’ that the dealer uses can do this. I’ve called a couple, and they can do it, but they want $200. Is that good?
I’m thinking the voltage spike did something to the memory of the ECU, causing it to clear the programming for the keys.
And my keyfobs are fine. They open, close, put the windows down, etc. just fine. My issue is the key itself seemingly not being recognized.
Saratoga Nissan should be open today, but when I brought my 01 Altima in, they need the car when cutting the key. There is a process they go through that further programs the key, on-off-on, for a certain number of seconds.
May have to tow it somewhere if you don’t go the locksmith root.
There should be a TSB/recall for this. You guys have no idea how many of the 99 Max guys on the forum have had this happen to them. It’s a very common issue with this year.
Just because the pump is priming, doesn’t mean it’s flowing. My 911 did similar things when the fuel pump went, but I could still hear the pump priming.
I would of done a voltage test, then read to see how much pressure my fuel pump was giving. If everything was fine then I would of looked at TSB’s (always better to get a free fix than pay someone to do it). Other than that if it was an ECU problem I would of thought getting your computer flashed is around 75 to 100 dollars and 50 dollars more if you had the electronic chip in your keys. At least I found that to be the case through GM.
these things have a high failure rate for the body control modules ,the mod is about 5-600 cant rem if that is with or without programming .ya could be without a car for a few days as i doubt nissan dealers have this in stock locally ,but i could be wrong
I checked every fuse in the car that could possibly have anything to do with the car starting. All of them, including fuel pump, starter, ignition switch, etc. are good.
No I haven’t…unless me spraying starter fluid into the IM is what you’re talking about. The car started when I did that, although it died shortly after. That means I do have spark, just no fuel. Which is what the imobilizer does I believe when it’s ‘not working’. It doesn’t allow the injectors to spray.
okay ,your gettin spark .now ya need to test fuel presure and inj signal have someone crank engine over and use a long screwdriver put it gently on a injector and have them crank it ,listen for a slight ticking sound if ya do ya should have inj signal “its a ghetto way test wit no noid light”.get a fuel pressure tester and see what pressure is there if none ya prolly got a bad pump seein as ya hear it prime up ,or a plugged fuel filter .if ya gave someone there crank the car over and hit tank with a hammer to shock the pump if it starts then ya got a bad pump