Loosing coolant

Ok back in the fall before I put my car away my car one day overheated. This was due from a small pinhole leak where the waterpump sealed. The car was very high in temperature for a good 2 minutes. After I fixed the leak the car still lost coolant but wasn’t leaking anywhere. I put a can of that barnes or whatever that coolant stop leak crap is and slowed the process but still continued to loose coolant. Did i warp something? I’m rebuilding my SOHC but am afraid that something is warped and i’m going to be screwed, any info/ advice would be nice. If i havnt mentioned something let me know.

Thanks,

-Foz

so if I read this right,

your coolant level keeps dropping, but no coolant is coming out (leaking)?

Does it smoke?

Sounds like you might have blown the head gasket.

you might have warped the head, which would blow the gasket

Overheating a motor can do a lot of bad … no good.

I concur with mr200.

headgasket causing coolant to burn, which will leave no puddles or leaks but will cause the level to drop.

Open you rad cap, if the headgasket is shot you may find white film at the the top. Also, smell your exhaust gases (dont dip ur head right in, lol) if it smells sweet you prolly have a blown headgasket.

head gasket is brand new, however the leak happened a few months afterwards… and what warps? the head? can the block warp? i doubt it considering its cast iron correct?

anybody ^

common issue on ka-e is blown water jackets…
they change shape during overheating…and then allow coolant to mix with the oil …the coolant evapourates and burns off thus the level dropping and causing more overheatng.
I drove a ka with this problem all winter before…the car consumed almost as much coolant as gas but it ran hard…i even sprayed nos on it…

Hmm … haven’t heard that before, but it does make sense. I’ve known a few SOHC KAs with strange cooling issues.

Oh and 240_FOZ, if you end up needing a new head, I have a P&Ped KA head kicking around in the garage, and no SOHC KA.

Yeah, you’re on it. The head is aluminum, so if temperatures get up high enough, the aluminum gets soft, and the mating surface between the block and head change. Your gasket no longer seals properly, and it won’t take much pressure to pop the gasket.

this might be a newb question, but what are water jackets? your not talking about a head gasket are you?

The water jacket is a collection of passages within the block and head. These passages let the coolant circulate around the “hot spots” (valve seats and guides, cylinder walls, combustion chamber, etc.) in order to cool them off.

The engine block is actually manufactured in one piece with the water jackets cast into the block and cylinder head. At normal operating temperature, the water pump forces the coolant through the head gasket openings and on into the water jackets in the cylinder head. It flows around in there, cooling everything off by absorbing the heat. After doing its thing, the coolant flows through the upper hose to the radiator where it releases the heat. Then, the water pump sends it back down into the engine’s water jackets to continue the cooling process.

Dead Jacket = new motor

Most mechanics will be able to perform a pressure test of your cooling system, which will tell you if you have any internal leaks.

Before doing that, change your oil and check for presence of coolant.

the only problem is my engine is out of my car…

you can buy DIY coolant pressure testers for under $50.

Lot easier to do it out of the car.

u should probably just tighten your loose coolant.

then you might LOSE less LOOSE coolant. its gotta be tight yo.

did u get the head machined when u did the head gasket job? at least get it checked? u always gotta measure the head when doing a head gasket job?

pressure test is always a good place to start. also make sure that coolant stop leak crap u put in the motor didn’t clog up any lines or hoses.