Stay away from J&J goto a reputable tuner
What I would expect from WT
Yeah great idea. Maybe you can hook him up master
The question here is can you make the BMW PCM read the monitors as ready? If you can’t it will never pass.
Just run OBD port from the GM PCM
Isn’t there a VIN check?
Is the vin number in pcms? Most
is this going to throw a flag? Yes
is it against the law? No.
I can’t say I have ever inspected a obd2 car from a completely different manufacturer
Well technically the law is you can’t swap in a motor that’s older than the car it’s going into. I just always thought it compared vins during inspection and wouldn’t pass if the ecu vin didn’t match the registration vin.
Good to know.
if it really is that easy, that’s awesome…otherwise I would think you would have to make little resistor packs that emulate the correct readings and build “cheater” dummy plugs for those pigtails that won’t be used to prevent a CEL…which would be a lot of work to measure each sensor on a stock vehicle and then figure out how to emulate the signal…
because they came with the LS6 intake and fuel rail that i needed. i got a screaming deal on them, and couldn’t say no. besides, if i ever decide to turn up the wick in the future it’s good to know they have some balls left in them.
The chassis is 2001, the motor is 2003
once the GM harness is in the car, it runs the engine off the PCM like it would in any van, truck, Camaro, whatever…the OBD2 port doesn’t know that it’s under the dash of a BMW instead of a Chevy Express.
I actually ended up tracing all the BMW engine harness back to the BMW ECU. it was all conveniently connected at one point, so i disconnected the plug there and put it aside. the BMW body harness is completely untouched at this point. the BMW ECU will probably freak the fuck out when it sees all of that unplugged, but because the check engine light will be now triggered by the GM PCM, it doesn’t matter.
I’ll probably end up going to the junkyard again and grab an OBD2 plug off of anything GM after 96 with the wires/pins still in it so that I don’t have to repin. Just resolder (if necessary) to the 2003 Express van specs
this webpage is a godsend…
http://www.lt1swap.com/2004vortec_pcm.htm
in other news i picked up a M20x1.5mm metric plug last night to get rid of the CAGS sensor. Because the PCM is coded as an auto right now i don’t think i’ll have to get CAGS “turned off” in the tune, but because it may be coded to an M6 in the future to enable the reverse lockout and VSS for the T56, i’ll have to double check. fun fact, that metric plug was OE on a 1986 Dodge Omni…siqqqqqq
ripped all the tape, split loom, and other shit off the harness last night while watching the Sabres get their heads kicked in
Wednesday looks nice next week so i’ll try to at least finish up the passenger side manifold if not start the driver’s side.
dude re-pinning is SO much easier than soldering.
you need to buy/make a few tools but once you do a couple different connectors you can usually figure out most connectors
Its that easy, I’d leave the GM odbII port right by the ECU even if that is under the hood. Not an issue. Can’t wait to see this swap completed smoking tires.
Any progress?
Wake up fggt.
Just buy this:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/cto/3583378277.html
frost is a good tuner and a great guy…also Brian Heerder does good work at pcmforless…he tuned our ls swapped lexus into the 10s first season out
:word:
Frost is good
Morale is pretty low due to cold weather and the little heater in the garage doesn’t do much of anything besides consume propane…
I did get my T56 Ford style angled reverse sensor in as well as a few other small things like new bolts for the header to exhaust flanges.
I spent a good portion of Saturday trying to remove the splined studs in the OEM BMW ball flanges since they were pretty damaged. I was able to remove one of them cleanly but the rest had to be drilled out. After getting 2 of them out and breaking a drill bit off in the last one, I ended up caving in and buying a propane torch. The last one came out after some more hammering with a punch.
While the flanges were being heated with the torch I removed the LS1 intake and installed and torqued down the LS6 intake, fuel rail, and EV1 injector pigtails.
Earlier this week I sat down (in the living room, thank God) and removed quite a few circuits from the GM harness. I still have to verify which ones still need to be removed–I have a list in a Word doc of all the ones I’ve already taken out. it’s an absolute rat’s nest of wiring right now.
I should be able to get out into the garage tomorrow and finish up the passenger side header. I started with an OEM 98 Camaro manifold (stamped steel) and cut off the flange. Inside, there is a steel tube running the length of the manifold under the runners to the very front where there’s a port for the secondary air injection. I ripped that pipe out and hated how there was a bulge there with nothing in it, so I started cutting out parts of the sleeve to narrow it and hammer it shut. In the end I cut out too much of it and had a very long seam that just looked terrible when welded and had too much potential for leaks. I looked at more “off-the-shelf” solutions and found that CTS-V manifolds dump out pretty close to where I need them, so found a set of those cheap on the ‘Tech and they should be here next week.
Some good weather would really help me along. Ask Gennaro, that guidette stopped over Saturday morning. By the way, thanks for plowing most of my driveway with your car.
Don’t worry I’ll be sending you a bill! 
oil pan disassembled, had a coworker weld it up and leak test it. i also cut the required portion of the baffles
all assembled.
extent of the notch.
clusterfuck, i removed almost all the circuits that aren’t necessary.
auto trans plug and the 2nd O2 sensor plug ditched.
I’m just gonna leave this right here http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html