LQ9 into E39

[Norb_O]

Listing of circuits that I removed. Some were not in the PCM connectors (since the van was not 4WD among other options), so those are labeled “NOT PRESENT”.

BLUE
17 DK BLU 1225 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B (A/T)
18 RED 1226 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C (A/T)
25 TAN 1671 HO2S Low Signal - Bank 2 Sensor 2
28 TAN/WHT 1669 HO2S Low Signal - Bank 1 Sensor 2
30 LT GRN 1478 Coolant Level Switch Signal (empty 2006+) (NOT PRESENT)
32 BLK/WHT 771 Transmission Range Switch Signal A (A/T)
34 WHT 776 Transmission Range Switch Signal P (A/T) PCM can be programmed to accept a SINGLE WIRE park/neutral signal on this PIN, if no trans mounted range sensor is present
53 GRY 720 Low Reference (TRANS)
56 WHT 1579 Fuel Temperature/Composition Signal (L59) Flex Fuel Sensor (PCM SHOULD BE PROGRAMMED TO REMOVE FLEX FUEL FUNCTION)
65 PPL 1670 HO2S High Signal - Bank 2 Sensor 2
68 PPL/WHT 1668 HO2S High Signal - Bank 1 Sensor 2
72 YEL 772 Transmission Range Switch Signal B (A/T)
79 WHT 687 3-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control (M30/M32) NOT PRESENT
GREEN
2 BRN 418 TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Control (A/T)
3 TAN 1465 Fuel Pump Relay Control – Secondary NOT PRESENT
6 RED/BLK 1228 PC Solenoid Valve High Control (A/T)
8 LT BLU/WHT 1229 PC Solenoid Valve Low Control (A/T)
16 GRY/BLK 1694 4WD Low Signal (KEEP IF USING STOCK TRANSFER CASE IN A 4WD APPLACTION, WITH VSS ON OUTPUT OF TRANSFER CASE. NOT PRESENT
22 RED/BLK 1230 AT ISS High Signal (4WD w/MT1)
23 DK BLU/WHT 1231 AT ISS Low Signal (4WD w/MT1)
42 TAN/BLK 422 TCC Solenoid Valve Control (M30/M32) NOT PRESENT
47 YEL/BLK 1223 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Control (A/T)
48 LT GRN 1222 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control (A/T)
51 YEL/BLK 1227 TFT Sensor Signal (A/T)
52 BRN 2391 HO2S Heater Low Control Bank 1 Sensor 2
53 RED/WHT 3223 HO2S Heater Low Control Bank 2 Sensor 2
54 PPL 1589 Fuel Level Sensor Signal - Primary
62 GRY 773 Transmission Range Switch Signal C (A/T)
63 PNK 1224 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A (A/T)
73 DK BLU 1936 Fuel Level Sensor Signal – Secondary NOT PRESENT

[Norb_O]

LS6 CTS-V manifolds get here Monday, I’m really anxious to see if they fit. If not, I am falling back on the tubular steel Camaro manifolds and will get to work on those.

Didn’t feel like wasting hours and gallons of gas running around finding M16x2.0 stock for a pulley installer tool, so I bought a “kit” on LS1Tech for $20 shipped, that showed up yesterday.

Placed an order this morning with Rockauto.

Plugs (Bosch Platinums at a whopping 74 cents each, gotta love closeout)
a new wire set (the originals were probably fine, but the engine only came with 7, and they looked like dog shit)
2 oil filters (the bottom end was never apart and doesn’t need to be broken in, but I plan on still doing an oil change after a few miles to wash out the beer can tabs and condoms that probably fell in during the 5 months the motor was apart)
LS1 main belt tensioner (I should have bought a belt too, but forgot). For now I’ll be running without AC until I can figure out the wiring. It isn’t imperative to the car doing heaters so I’m not too worried about it.

Also ordered with Summit:
ARP Crank Balancer Bolt
ARP Pressure Plate Bolt Kit
ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit

I have a ton of bolts left over from when I disassembled the motor, so I’m reusing the valley cover bolts as exhaust manifold bolts.

Also snagged a new titanium 11/32” bit so that I can drill and tap the boss on the block for the F-Body alternator bracket.

I didn’t like the look of the square shifter rod so I grabbed some ¾” round stock on lunch and will re-make it tonight. The square shit was only about ½” thick and just looked so ghetto. I still want a tall shifter, just with better quality/finish. If I had access to a lathe I’d chuck it up and clean it/polish it but a wire wheel will have to do.

[Norb_O]

A few pics I forgot to add.

LS6 intake went in last week, all torqued down. I should have cleaned it up a bit before installing it but it’s not a big deal.

Bent up a new shifter rod. No pictures of the finished product as I still need to clean it up with a wirewheel, but it already looks a lot better than that square rod I initially made.

Getting better with prep for welding

The shifter looks similar to this Viper setup, a thick rod with the ball right on top. Beefy.

[IanK]

Soooooo does it do heaters yet ?

[boardjnky4]

i like your thick rod

[GV1390]

@IanK

Soooooo does it do heaters yet ?

.

[steelcitysix]

careful with reusing bolts especially manifolds …I think they are tourqe to yeild from the factory and should only be used once. All of my tow trucks have leaky manifolds…I also have lotsa extra parts leftover from building the gtm. all new in box stuff…ie O2s… corvette acc bracket…

[Norb_O]

The bolts I’m using on the manifold are originally from the valley cover and are nowhere near TTY. The original manifold bolts were rusted to shit and are long gone

I have a heater in my garage and it doesn’t do shit.

[Norb_O]

spent a few hours today, some progress and some setbacks.

started off with remaking the shifter stick. the only square rod was ugly as dick. It has a brushed finish and looks a ton better. I laid a bead about halfway up the stick, to act as a retaining ring that’ll stop the leather boot from sliding down.

installed a new front main seal in the front cover, new front cover gasket, and installed it all finger tight onto the motor

threaded the M16x2.0 stud into the crank to get ready to pull in the F-Body Balancer

my torque wrench only read to 150 ft-lbs and i needed at least 230-240, so i rented one from Autozone. also grabbed another M16x2.0 nut to double nut the stud to be able to pull it out later.

threw in the ARP crank bolt (which is reusable, unlike the OEM TTY bolt), but it requires an oddball 12pt 27mm socket, so i’ll pick one of those up tomorrow afternoon.

i also installed the F-Body water pump, belt tensioner, and alternator bracket (which required drilling and tapping the blank boss cast in on the truck style blocks for one of the bolts). once i tighten down the crank pulley for the final time it’ll be nice because i can finally install all the front accessories and finish assembling the valvetrain (rockers, pushrods, and finally install the valve covers). once those are on, i’ll wirewheel the coil packs because the steel brackets are rusty, and those can go on too.

that all fit fine and dandy, but unfornately i had a massive brain fart when i went to install the alternator and realized that the rear of the alternator interferes with the driver’s side engine mount. it’s nothing earth shattering but it means i will have to trim that mount and reweld a plate in place. shit happens.

[Norb_O]

Rented the PS pump pulley puller (what a clusterfuck of a name). Used the impact gun and it made very quick work of the truck pulley. It was rusty and nasty so I scrubbed it, wirewheeled it, put a coat of wrinkle black on it, and let it dry overnight. The main garage door in our apartment is being replaced over the next few days, so I rolled the car outside, progress will be slowed. In the meantime I’ll try out the installer portion of the tool and see how it works pulling it onto the F-Body pump. At that point there’s no reason I can’t button up the accessories for the final time and order a belt.

A generous Bimmerforums member sent me a few extra freeze plugs for the dipstick hole on the block.

CTS-V manifolds fit very well. The passenger side drops right in. The driver’s side rubbed on the steering shaft. The previous owner was nice enough to cut the cats off after the post header flange, like this, which makes fab easier:

Jacked up the front of the car so the wheels were off the ground and had Melissa turn the wheel lock to lock a few times. The steering shaft is square where it hits, so it only rubs at each corner of the square. I removed and flipped the post manifold pipe stub 180*, and it’s VERY close to the steering shaft, but some convincing with a large diameter pipe and BFH will clearance it. Another big plus was that the OEM heat shields don’t interfere with anything. The PS line that runs along the driver’s side frame rail is very close to the manifold, but I think a few minutes with the torch should bend it right out of the way. It is covered with heat-shielding from the factory, but I don’t want to risk cooking the PS fluid.

The plan for the next few weeks:

-Finish fabbing manifold pipes that connect to OEM ball flange. I’m only going to tack this up as fully welding it is above my skill set. If anyone on NYSpeed is interested in welding these up for me fully, let me know. It’s approximately 5-6 butt welds all the way around on 2.25” mild steel pipe. I will have everything tacked and ground down/cleaned up for you.

-Remove engine/tranny, send T56 off to TDP to be looked at. Order Diamond light flywheel while Jason has it.
-While trans is gone, assemble pushrods, rockers, install valve covers
-install oil pan, pickup, and deflection tray
-change rear cover gasket and rear main seal
-Install DBC pedal from 528i in car
-work up some sort of throttle cable
-clean up and paint the engine/trans mounts
-disassemble and rebuild the M5 Diff
-buy a yoke for the end of the trans

Once the trans comes back in I can install the flywheel, PP and clutch, and mate the engine/trans for the final time.

[focusinprogress]

welding those exhaust connections should be easy-peasy unless your welder’s heat adjustment is a switch instead of a dial. I’ll be the first to offer to help, I’m sure there’s tons of members that would weld it up for you.

[Norb_O]

Unfortunately, that is the case. While the wire speed is a rotary knob, the heat settings are Low 1, Low 2, Hi 1, Hi 2. Which basically translates to, weld piling up, or blow through. After this project is done I may start looking at better machines, since I really do genuinely enjoy fabricating stuff. At this point though, I can’t justify holding up the build when someone else can do it for me much better than I’m capable of.

I’m not looking for anything fancy, MIG is fine, just so long as it is strong and doesn’t leak. Previous exhaust jobs I’ve done consisted of nothing but chasing down pinhole leaks because of my boogery welds…

I’ll let you know when they’re ready to be welded. I can drop them off for you or if you want to come by for a beer and to see the whip you’re more than welcome to.

[Norb_O]

knocked out the whole exhaust in one night. $100 CTS-V LS6 manifolds, $20 worth of mandrel bent 2-1/4" mild, and some leftover straight pieces from my old Spec V ebay header. and 4 beers.

which one of you can weld these fully for me? it’s all tacked up now, i can grind down and wirewheel/clean up as necessary.

[travisn]

cmon you can weld it yourself!

[Norb_O]

Nah, no point in me spending days on this frustrated because the welds pile up or blow through. I don’t want them to leak. I can get a lot of other stuff done while someone knocks these out for me.

[Norb_O]

snagged a 3.62 ring and pinion from an E46 M3 for my diff, which is from an E39 M5.

can anyone recommend a good shop locally (Blackforest?) that can put that in for me? The diff is obviously out of the car and needs a pretty thorough rebuild. Clutches, seals, and install the R&P.

[focusinprogress]

FYI, my welder is already in my truck from doing another welding house-call last night…I could weld up your exhaust after 7pm tonight if you’d like…(minus the stainless flanges at the ends of course)

[Norb_O]

Thanks man, but I’m dropping it all off at Jay’s (BREETIME) tomorrow morning.

[focusinprogress]

@96V6Bird

Thanks man, but I’m dropping it all off at Jay’s (BREETIME) tomorrow morning.

:tup: way better than me lol. I’ll be over at BREETIME’s in the early afternoon anyways with checko for some exhaust and possibly intake work on his rabbit.

[Norb_O]

pulled the motor, trans, and mounts last night for what should be the final time

replaced the RMS and rear cover gasket on the motor

pulled the slave cylinder, shifter, and bellhousing off the T56, wrapped it up, tomorrow it takes a little trip to Texas to be rebuilt