So he should have run better than the consistant 11.6 @ 123 that he ran? The car had every option and still had the working AC. He put down about 500hp and 600lbs at the wheels. He had a hard time hooking up on DRs. I am sure he could have done better on slicks.
I was thinking the same thing “highly” modified and only running 11’s? uhm, either it was extremely badly tuned, mis-matched combo, no knowledge on how to drive, or he was pulling your leg about the 383 and modifications.
I’ve seen basic 383 buildups with stock ported heads, and a 125 shot deep in to the 10’s.
if we’re talking all out here… f the carb’d SBC; Force Fed, Fuel-Injected, N2O injected BBC. Sorry, even in the Forced induction world, Bigger cubes + Big Boost = MORE POWER.
I know it was 383 and what modifictions he had because I helped him rebuild the motor. I was wrong on the shot, it was only 100. I think his main issue was traction.
here are his mods.
96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA’s, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73’s, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
I guess it is a moot point because he sold the car last july. He ended up buying an 89 shelby CSX that we are currently working on. It has 4 less cylinders than the bird but it will be faster when we are done with it.
I know that car, I’ve seen it before back when i lived in Rochester, there are not many Formula WS6’s around and they always catch my eye.
He shouldn’t have had too much traction problems though, with all the suspension/chassis mods something wasn’t setup right, or he wasn’t using the tires properly (Heating them up or right pressure).
Mine is torn apart working on a serious upgrade, although having to put a roof on my house hurt things for timing and $$$$
hell yeah
my 383 runs better ET than that NA, and my old stock head/small cam/small shot 350 setup ran a better ET and more MPH with a mediocre 60’. Im glad to see 383 LT1s on spray, dont get me wrong, but a car with those mods should be deep into the 10s
LSx > LT1. New generation of technology, burgeoning aftermarket (that will grow, not fade), etc., etc.
Iron blocks are :tits: for BIG power, but otherwise LSx takes it.
Just buy a LS7 longblock 
Not that any of this matters, because the car is sold…
What cam?
That combo should have done far better then 11.6 on 100 shot. I know a LTJuan 383, full weight bird that runs low 11 on DRs no spray.
I’m amost positive that most NA 383 combos will achieve what Your buddie’s car did on spray.
:gotme:
Like everyone has already said, yes the car should be in the 10s. It should run NA what it was running on the bottle.
yep, and his MPH should have been 130+ with that setup in a T56 car regardless of ET
Both are just more GM, union made crap right? :gotme:
Well since I’ve had both an LT1 and LS1…I’ll give some input. My LT1 Camaro was quick for what it had done (cutout on stock exhaust, K&N FIPK, 160* thermo), tons of low end power, and a blast to drive. It was also very light, hardtop, manual windows, locks, pretty much optionless. Which was why I would keep up/tie/beat other “full” bolton LT1’s. My LS1 SS Camaro with catback, lid, and pulley pulls quite a bit harder, especially up top, and is A LOT heavier than my old car. LS1’s also respond to mods a lot better than LT1’s. Full boltons on an LS1 should get you almost 350 rwhp through a 6 speed. A full bolton LT1 car would be low 300’s at best. It all comes down to what your budget is. You can pick up an LT1 car for pretty cheap, and still have tons of fun with it. LT1’s are great platforms to build, but my vote goes for the LS1, mod for mod, an LS1 will outperform the LT1 hands down.
i also have had both and he hit it right on the head. i loved the lt1 to death but once i drove an ls1 car and felt how smooth it was and how hard it pulled, i jumped on a plane to kansas city and wound up with this 30th.
For my turbo build, I just cant argue with the 6 bolt main iron block going past crank centerline along with a great computer/ignition setup…although Im worried about the 4 bolts per cylinder. For anything else, Id probably rather have an LT1. The cars are cheaper to buy, come with better manual transmissions, better clutch feel, iron block, uses alot of small block parts, sounds better, bigger bores, and is just enough of an underdog to make it more interesting :tspry:
LS1>*
soo much support under that hood
ya know, so it doesnt dent when you get grabbed by the throat and thrown across it 
you wont be disapointed either way. but if you just want a quick bolt on car go LS1 and dont look back. LS1’s do seem to respond to mods better too…not just bolt ons but cams as well.
Let me clear something up for you peice of white trash jerk off…Mark pushed me while I was drinking a coffee never threw me over the hood of any car…Now he runs around blowing the story up everywhere years later since he has nothing better to talk about?
Maybe if he spent less time adding stuff to a rather lame story and telling people he might have a car that runs for more then week.
:biglaugh:
FormulaLS1
Now he runs around blowing the story up everywhere years later since he has nothing better to talk about? Maybe if he spent less time adding stuff to a rather lame story and telling people he might have a car that runs for more then week.
I havent talked about you in a long time, but if you want to see how well my car runs, Im STILL waiting for a race.
keep laughing, but you’re next. well you would be, if you even had a car for me to throw you over.