this is still a work in progress. i will continue to add shit to it.
So you want to make a base map, and maybe even toon that turbo POS of yours?
What you will need
- a turbo POS
- a chipped ecu
- something to edit that code with for the Honda camp I suggest Crome http://www.tunewithcrome.com/
- a lappy 386
-
a stock P30 rom, and the rom from your original engine (P28, P72...) - a wide band o2 sensor
- egt wouldn’t suck, but its optional
Importing your Tables. (skip this if you are using a B16)
If you’re engine didn’t use the P30 stock you will need to get the right tables for your engine. Click: File / Open, and open the rom you have for your engine (P72 or whatever it is you have). Then click on: File / Export Tables, and save the file.
Now close that file, and open the P30 rom you have. Click on: File / Import Tables, and select the file you just saved.
Voile.
OK, so lets move on.
Fire up Crome (if you skipped the above step), and open up a stock P30 rom (most of the plug-in are written for P-30 code). You should see something like this:
Ok, now lets make sure the checksum is disabled. If it’s not, you will mother fuck for an hour or so later before you realize how stupid you are. So click on:
Plugins / Enhancements / Remove Checksum Routine
and now lets add Datalogging and RTP to the rom
Click on:
Plugins / Enhancements / Quick Datalogger +RTP
and then click OK
I am assuming you have a turbo POS here, so lets add boost maps. Click on:
Plugins / Advanced Boost Tools
(a new window will pop up)
Click OK, and then Next
Now pick your map sensor, if you are using the stock sensor, just click Next
Then select the number of columns you want. 6 or 8 will be fine for the stock sensor. So select one of those and click on Next, and then Next again.
Now you should see a bunch of new columns, but they will be all grayed out. Lets fix that. Click on:
Tools / Adjust Boost Tables
This will pop up another window with a few options. Put the selection dot in “Retard ignition by .75 degree/lb boost”. That will set up the ignition maps.
Then put the other selection dot in “Adjust for turbocharger efficiency 120%”, and that will setup the fuel maps. Then just click OK.
Now lets install the advanced fuel tools (if you are using stock injectors you can skip this)
Click on:
Plugins / Fuel Tools
This will pop up another window click OK, and then Yes.
Say you were using something like a 440 injector, you would need to scale the fuel maps so its not running pig rich.
Click on:
Tools / Fuel Multiplier and then click on the Advanced tab (don’t fuck with the Main tab)
Set your Final Multiplier to “.6” that will set up the maps for a 400cc injector, but you are better safe then sorry with a base map. Then click OK
You should now have something like this.
So now the Fuel and Ignition maps are all set up, lets play with some of the other options. Click on the Options button on the tool bar.
Here is where you can:
.adjust rev limiter (you should know how high you plan to rev your engine)
.change your target idle (there is an advanced too for that though)
.change your vtec crossover. this is easier to do on the dyno where you can see how smooth or not your settings are.
.remove the speed limiter
.and then enable/disable a handful of other sensors (for tuning you will need to disable the O2 sensor and heater)
Alright, now you have yourself a base map. Click: File / Save As (if you dont know what to do now, you should punch yourself)
OK, so you’ve saved the file, and got it loaded on your ostrich, or burnt to a chip. (i am not going to go into those 2 things… i think you can figure that out for yourself)
Lets make it run like it should. I am assuming that you have your ecu setup up with a datalogging cable, and you have an ostrich here.
In Crome click File/Settings, and make sure everything is setup properly. i.e. your datalogging/ostrich ports, and you have the proper wide band selected. Splice your analog output on your wideband into your O2 signal, and have your O2 sensor unplugged.
If you’re street tuning, or buying time on the dyno i suggest having a “wheel man”. It is much easier to have one person mashing the gas while you work the laptop. Doing both is like trying to drive, turn, talk on the phone, smoke, and drink coffee… something bad is going to happen.
With Crome open, your rom loaded, and your car connected to the laptop go to options and disable the O2 and O2 heater. Open up the realtime programing and datalogging tool bars, upload the rom, start the car, and start the datalogging with the car at idle.
I keep the idle in the 2nd and 3rd column, and adjust the amount of fuel via the up and down arrows. the first should be for decel. Press F11 to bring up the lambda reading table (you will be switching between this screen and fuel map screen constantly). You should be able to get the A/F right in a few min with the live tuning. If you’re using a non-stock map sensor you may need to change the map scaler a bit if you find it is reading too far left or right. Now if you aren’t idling at 750 you may need to play around with the idle adjustment screw. I have been known to spend a lot of time playing with this, the target idle tables, and those 2 columns. I am anal about how a car idles.
Now the car idles like stock, and that’s better than bad. Lets get the part throttle maps cleaned up. You are going to do this the same way you did the idle; only now your wheel man will be carting you around like miss daisy. Start at the left and work your way right. So pick an rpm and have your wheel man put load on the engine with the brakes, and then move to the next rpm range (you wont be able to hit every cell). make it fat under load and lean where you are cruising. i shoot for high 12’s (between 12.5 and 13) at the start of boost, and add more fuel the farther right i go. if you’re on a stock map sensor and running 11psi or less on a reasonably sized turbo you shouldnt need to go any lower than high 11’s-12 (i personally would call 11 too fat, others would call it safe… pussies). Clear your data every now and then so you have current readings infront of you.
Do that until you are making full throttle pulls. This is where you will have to start and stop your datalogging so you can go back and review what your pulls and make the changes accordingly. This will require an open stretch of road, or a dyno. At this point i would suggest the dyno. It will give you the ability to see detonation in the graphs, and you can see what changes are and aren’t making power. Again this will work just like the last couple of steps, only you will be stopping and reviewing the data rather than changing it as you’re passing over/holding it.
A tip about your vtec cross over… it should be smooth. move it up high, and tune the low cam maps, and then move it down low, and tune the high cam maps. then place the cross over accordingly. Then the next pull you make you will probably see a really lean spot where you set the cross over. Just fatten up both of the maps in that area to clean that up, and you will have smooth cross overs every time.
Timing.
It’s a good idea to build yourself some knock cans for this. Advance the timing until it stops making power, or until it knocks, and then bring it back a little bit. On the dyno it’s pretty easy, but on the street… not so much.
That’s the basics. It’s not difficult, it’s just experience… knowing what to do when X situation comes up, and you will learn that by doing it.
I will edit this or add a post about cam timing later.
