Mike's Sol

+1 well said.

you’re absolutely right with that first part. Not just Hondas but the same goes for subarus.

For the transmission I don’t mind getting aftermarket gears but my fear is that the weak point will just shift to something else and I’ll have to keep replacing stuff. If I have to do that I’d rather just keep a spare handy although that could get expensive too.

That’s always the case though. There is never NOT a weakpoint in the system, it’s just a matter of building it up until you don’t exceed it’s limits, or drive it below the threshold of said component(s)

Point is to build the car to last for how you intend to drive it. If you can’t do that, well then there has to be a change elsewhere.

absolutely. That statement is obviously not meant to be taken to the extreme rather its just a guideline for me to go by to achieve balance between strength and reasonable cost.

Exactly.

What type of driving? Track usage, street, drag? I assumed track events which would be mostly 3-5th gear.

track and some street.

Congrats man this car is going to be amazing

What will the cars approximate weight be

mfactory has a road/race gear set… super short ratios though. I suppose you could tweak it with a different FD if you wanted.

http://www.teammfactory.com/close-ratio-gears-road-race

probably between 2250-2400 with driver

Thats not too bad, you will have to keep an eye on gear wear on 3-5 but it doesn’t warrant an aftermarket gear set.

I do like the Mfactory stuff. Right now I’m talking to a guy who is willing to ship me two type-s transmissions with good mileage for 1,650. I’m not sure of how good of a deal that is though.

thats good to hear. Thanks

DC5-R 4-6 ftw.

How many chances should I give this guy to make things right on the motor?

he didn’t include the clutch
The axle is stuck and was obviously hit with a hammer
the oil pan is smashed

those are my three major issues and this is what he has to say:
-he sold the clutch separately and wrote on other forums that it was no longer available with the clutch, but he didn’t mention that on k20a.org where I saw it
-the oil pan is not his fault, blame the shippers
-the axle is still good, I should be able to pop it out and then its fine.

how long should I wait for him to stop being stupid before I freeze the paypal payment?

The axle isn’t ruined or anything, looks like someone didn’t know what they were doing. Typically a large drift and one swing with a hammer is the way to pop the inner joint free from the intermediate shaft. I think what you have there is just some unnecessary cosmetic damage to both parts.

Maybe a small amount of money back would be fair for the missing clutch but I don’t know the condition or type.

large drift? I’m more than willing to play with the axle, but if I can’t pop it out its useless to me since I’m only keeping the half shaft anyway.

The clutch was supposed to be a brand new ACT “stage 3”

I say freeze that shit… but I’m under the influence

I did end up freezing it last night. I’m real concerned about the internals of the motor if that’s what it looked like externally. I’ll be cracking into it this week.

Can anyone tell me which k-series cars come with honda factory LSD? and how does the factory LSD compare to the aftermarket ones currently available?

dc5R, ep3R, fg2 Si, thats about it commonly. the oem diffs hold up fine along wiith after market diffs. the benefits i see with staying oem is cost and fitment. also what FD are you looking to run?