that makes me a bit concerned, From what I understood nearly all hondas have the same spec stud just different lengths. Let me do some research to figure out why the don’t match up and if I can just buy new ARP studs or not.
Hub PCD and hubcentric are the same on both hubs. CRV hubs have a register of about .55"
We’re gonna have to go with option. 3. Looks like the arps should fit, but the hubs were not made to oem spec
a photo update:
hubs which apparently aren’t made to OEM specs 
1/8th inch caps to the front end:
found out a trick about using 309 filler on contaminated welds to get rid of porosity. I had already ground out most of the problem areas and fixed them but I wanted to try this trick on the last couple real small spots to see how it would work:
same with the other side:
The bottom of this one didn’t sit flush with where I cut the bottom so I had to fill in a bunch. That’s where you can see some spots at the bottom that still need to be filled.
can see it a bit easier here:
With the plate I added to cap the frame on the right side I started using the mild steel filler and got a bunch of contamination as you can see. I’m going to have to grind it all down and I’ll probably use the 309 filler on it. The weld on the interior angle was with the 309 and it didn’t have any problems with contaminants but doesn’t look too pretty.
Plate made to cap the other end:
I’m still playing around with how this will work:
not a problem mike, I will just machine new registers into the hubs this week.
if all goes well I’ll have the arms done this week.
Mike, updates on this end:
Arms are all cut and ready to be “put back together” That’s about as far as I got on them today.
The issue is with these hubs. After the debacle with the stud registers and you comment on them not being machine to OEM specs I thought I’d check all the other dimensionality on them to see what’s going on.
We got’s problems to say the least. First, the hubs won’t even come close to pressing into the bearings. The ID of the inner bearing race measure out at about 1.692", while the hub race measures out at 1.773". Yup, nearly a full tenth of an inch larger in diam. This is the LEAST of my concerns with these at the moment. The big issue is the stop race backset on the hubs themselves, and the bearing depth on the bearing race. The stop race is the machine surface on the hub that comes in contact with the flat machined surface of the bearing inner race, and is what registers the depth that the hub is pressed into the bearing. Two things are wring with it. One, the bearing sits recessed into the steel mount about .25" and the stop race is only ~.1-.15" in height from the back face of the hub. Means IF this hub were pressed into the bearing it would bottom out onto the steel bearing mount. The second issue with it is that the bearing mount ID is far smaller in diameter than the stop race itself, so even if it did have the correct height/offset, it would still bottom out from being to large.
So my obvious question…are you 150% positive that these are the hubs you were intending to buy? They in no way were ever meant to fit these bearings. I COULD machine them to fit, but that should never have to be done if they’re the correct hubs to begin with.
One other issue with these is that the hub race(that’s pressed into the bearing ID) measures 1.575" in length, while the pair of inner bearing races measure 1.825" in depth. Now when the hub is pressed into the bearing there is typically a small depth gap on the backside of the inner race to the hub race, which is taken up by the axle stube when it’s all torqued together. But this is .25" and I’ve never seen it that high before.
Just another reason why I think these are the wrong hubs.
Unfortunate thing is I need the hubs to set the offset of both the WB and the brake components.
Get back to me ASAP on this. Call if necessary.
Quick search shows that those hubs are for a v6 Accord which is a different part number than the CRV/Civic hubs. Might be your issue Mike
Thank you for looking that up. Backs up the mismatched dimensions I have here 
Mike, get me the right hubs beotch! lolz (I still have the boxes and shit these hubs came in, can send back to you whenever if you are looking to return/resell)
It makes sense because the OEM v6 axles use 36mm axle nuts and the rest use 32mm. Have you attempted to slip an OEM axle into the hub yet? I’d bet money that it just spins around in there.
i didn’t have one here to try that out but the splines on the new five bolt hubs definitely did look bigger than the 4 bolt hubs that came out of the spider carriers.
Definitely the wrong hubs, I double checked some old pictures from other builds. I’ll get the correct ones from Honda tomorrow.
Adam, with the correct hub diameter could the hub race or the steel bearing mount surround be machined to fit with relative ease?
Reason I ask is because I found some specs of different honda hubs and it looks like I could use a different one which would fit and allow for a larger/stronger axle.
Yes. It’s just time and tooling to me.
I could machine these hubs here to fit the bearings if it came down to that.
As LKSi suggested, the splines that are in these accord v6 hubs are larger than the splines that were in the rear hubs that came out of the original CRV drum brake bearings.
I suspect the splines will be the same as as what I want to use, but the diameter will be correct and the lug spacing/diameter will be correct. Only thing that will probably be different is the stop race.
example:
to make these hubs you sent me work with these bearings, I have to:
- machine the hub race down to press fit into the bearing ID
- machine down the face of the bearing carrier so the depth is more shallow than it is now(currently about .25") and doesn’t bottom out on the hub itself.
- machine down the diameter of the stop race so that it fits into the ID of the bearing carriers with some clearance
- machine the new stud registers
I have no idea what the hub offset will be with this combination, but from first glance this evening it looked as though it would be on the negative side(which if off is the way we’d want it to go anyway)
What other hub options do you have and what dimension(s) is/are off?
<ike if I counted correctly and wasn’t cross-eyed in the process these hubs are 28 spline(the accord ones you sent me)
keep me posted as to what you’re deciding for this hub stuff. if we’re going to still try to use these hubs here then I’d like to start machining them ASAP. only thing I want to check with them is the brake rotor offset when everything is pressed together. Want to measure out where it’ll roughly be to make sure it’ll clear the t-arm and related.
Climbed out of the trunk for a day to work on the front support. Huge thanks to adam for whipping this up for me. The fit with the bumper is exactly as planned.
Glad the bar worked out for you. Looks good on there.
I responded to your “welding questions” email just now.
Mike, I’ve checked offset dimensionality of hubs and rear rotors and everything looks good for bracket clearance so I’m going to be machining the hubs and bearing races tomorrow to work in unison.
Tues is going to be an off day but I should be back at the arms themselves and may have them tacked together on Weds.
Stay tuned.