damn straight it will be.
Bumper is on, targa is on, steering wheel is on, seats are in, but still no LCAs nor mock struts. FUCK. I’m gonna shit my pants if these parts aren’t done tomorrow by 5. This thing has to get on a trailer friday night.
:ponder :tongue no?
Well, I have some sort of control arm that at least allows me to put the car on the ground. I’ll do final assembly of the trailing arms tonight, need to pickup a bolt and washers to go through the hubs, then I can bolt on wheels and hopefully roll it up on the trailer.
I also got my beadrolled trunk in, just need to notch the edges of it so it can sit flat and temporarily rivet it in place.
Last day of work today… not getting anything done. lol
That other del sol looks like a box & round tube mess…This one looks very clean :thumbup
thanks.
Just dumping some photos for today, I’ll have to do a big write up next week. Heading to Georgia tomorrow, then next week fly back up and will drop off the k24 with Morgan at synapse.
Shit, I guess my rough offset calcs were alot closer than i thought! That sucks because the plates had plenty of material(prior to machining) to have left another .125" thickness on there overall. Looks like you might need a small wheel spacer/shim regardless.
Damn
Those lower arms don’t look half bad for temp reps either. That guy bend them up out of square stock?
offset was correct, the 10" wide 18mm offsets didn’t fit, i’m not sure if they fit before or not. The 9.5" 20mm offsets fit. We will do a small spacer just so I can run the 275"s on the 10" out back.
The lower arms actually look good, but they’re junk, square stock was too small, offset too much. I haven’t had time to measure them yet, but I’m not sure what was wrong with the offset, whether he did it to my specs or if my specs were wrong.
anyway, trip down to GA was tough on her. even though I coated as much as possible with etching primer it all rusted anyway. Hopefully I can get it all cleaned up and actually powder coat it all within the next couple of weeks.
Yeah etching primer is still porus. You’d have to use that then a primer sealer to get them locked in.
stuff can always be soda blasted. little surface rust that this stage isn’t going to hurt it much. pick up some PPG 579 metal cleaner and use that 100% strength and it’ll prohibit the major stuff from forming.
yup, I’ll blast the stuff I can pull off and spray, sand, or wire brush the components already welding on to the car.
one quick picture from the trip:
been very busy, but I’m going to need suggestions for “custom” sized radiator (shorter/thicker than stock) and adam I’ll need your help with the bell cranks soon. Next I’ll be looking into wiring which is something I haven’t been very successful at in the past. Hopefully I can put something together this time that is very modular and can still be trouble shot without too many issues.
neat writeup on bellcrank design and testing: http://cmrr.ucsd.edu/people/talke/documents/Fornace_Thesis_8_31_06.pdf
Measure the space you want the radiator to consume and look around. AFCO, Speedway, and the circle track sites have lots of good choices. A nice 19X22 aluminum jobber is like $200 or less. I am picking one up soon for the jetta from Speedway so i will post the quality. Also there is a place in NY http://www.wizardcooling.com/ that custom build them all the time. Also can get cores any size for DIY applications.
Any updates?
progress has been slow, ive been spending a lot of my weekends trying to build a network of fabricators, welders and powdercoaters.
I’ll have picture updates and a write up soon, but for now if anyone could help me find something like this for a good price
what size?
whats the application? ive seen people make them for cheap by welding a large bolt to a bushed DOM sleeve
yeah anywhere other than ballistic fab! they are priced HIGH there. they are forged one piece shits, but your not building a monster truck.
look up quality air ride. QAR. Great peeps there and they hook us up all the time. deal with them alot.
http://qualityairride.com/4-link-parts/4-link-bushings/adjustable-4-link-bar-end-1-stud
19$ VS 35$ from BF. Keep in mind a grease zerk is like $1, and 5 mins to drill and tap, you can save a few bucks if you have a bunch to do.
The ones from QAR are DOM tube with a threaded stud tigged on. I used these on some suspensions and they dont fail.
I like a forged or cast piece due to the strength. I would need something like 1 -1.5" diameter poly bushing that’s 1.5" wide.
yeah that… but not a normal zinkcoated truevalue bolt… get the semihardened threaded stud, much stronger than a bolt over the counter IMO.
the ones I posted start at 2".
Not that a band saw would cut down though. :rofl
just double checked, it is 2" wide, not 1.5"