too narrow i guess, but shows what a quick google search for “bushing rod end” turns up
damn, why is this so difficult. They have a variety on speedway but I cant find what I need.
there ya go.
i order from poly all the time, ask em to email you a tracking number if possible. Ive had them lose my order a couple times :lol
good guys, good products, but shitty order tracking.
if you call, ask for the pirate discount. usually 5 or 10% :thumbup
RWD Honda powered BMW?! lol
somehow managed to get it in there with some help… and then had to come up with the creative solution of dismantling it in order to get it out.
Hey who made those control arms? Those are pretty fucking sweet :tongue
ukkkk, been a loooooong day here…i’m bored.
still playing with the wire brushes and paint to try to kick the rust of some of this stuff. Finally getting around to reassembling it.
Using the paint stripe go/no-go tech inspection trick for the bolts :thumbup Many PCA people always wondered why my customers p-cars had those all over them. Makes tech a breeze.
Looking good.
Remember to grease or never seize the bearing into the hub race, and use red/high strength thread locker on those bolts.
both included in picture, done and done. Just need some SS grade 8 bolts now for the bearing races
can you get grade 8 in stainless?
i think stainless is usually weaker than even grade 5 because it cant be heat treated. the yellow zinc on normal grade 8s should resist corrosion just fine
i’m not aware that they couldn’t be heat treated. Its definitely something worth looking into. But yes, yellow zinc would be my other option.
looks like you are correct:
A common question is whether stainless steel is stronger that a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. Stainless commonly comes in grades 18.8 (304) or T316. Stainless steel bolts are rated for corrosion resistance. Bolt strength is rated in PSI (pounds per square inch). A stainless steel bolt has the same PSI rating as a grade 5 bolt (125,000 PSI). A grade 8 bolt has a stronger rating with a PSI of 150,000.
Mike are you taking about through bolts to clamps the wheel bearings to the control arms through that hub piece??? If so I had those in the box! Grade 12.9 metric allen caps bolts and flange washers :’(
Do not use anything other than grade 12.9 on those bolts into the bearings.
allen caps? I’ll take a look when I get home again. I still have all the hardware in bags from when I disassembled it.
-edit: which bolts were you telling me I should upgrade?
you shouldn’t have to upgrade any of those bolts. The OEM bolts that secure the bearing support race to the arm are fine(those large torx socket ones you have in there and marked) In the box I had six long black grade 12.9 allen cap bolts and matching washers that bolt the bearings to the bearing races. You want to use those.
You shouldn’t have to buy any hardware for those t-arms to bolt the bearing up. I provided all that in the box. 
ok, in that case I’m good then. I think I have those soaking in some WD40 to get some of the rust off and when I get home I can bolt it all up. Next step will be finally making the control arms which I will probably be calling you about.
Rust? They were brand new bolts. Drive the car through a pond or something?