Ok Ive got my turbo positioning problems solved. Now I have some more questions. I’ve looked online but I dont see how there answeres are correct.
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The PCV valves system. Ive seen some people tear apart some of the access crap from there intake for turbo swaps and people say to leave the PCV. How will this work when its turbo’d because it operates on vacuum and if its turbo’d it will become pressurized.
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The throttle plate butterflies. (Where the intake manifold bolts up to the head there are those series of butterflies) Once again those work on vacuum so if its turbo’d and pressurizes those lines wont it close those butterflies? Should I just take them out?
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The EGR system. (Small black box with some hoses, one goes into the stock air intake box, near the intake manifold that is bolted onto the strut tower) Can I just take that off? Its only emission junk right? Will it throw a code to the ECU and then not run if I take that out?
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Brake Booster vacuum line. Where will I put this now if my car is turbo’d because that line will pressurize thus not letting the brake booster system work properly.
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Oil feed line. People just drill them right into the oil filter attachment?
Any help on any of these questions would be much appreciated, thanks.
- Leave it in. Absolutely with a turbo more so then NA you have to leave it in. The PCV valve is just that a valve on an NA engine it opens at idle with vacume and at WOT it closes because 0 pressure in the manifold and the - pressure in the crank pulls the piston inside closed stopping your crank casing going to 0 on the other hand at WOT the crank casing is sucked out the top of the valve cover.
You always want - pressure in the crank casing and more so with a turbo because it helps to pull the oil through the oil line. So at idle with a turbo you should read NA pressure -20 psi so in that case the PCV valve will be open and youll create - crank casing pressure. at WOT youll be pushing boost at that point the PCV is closed because of the positive pressure and the tube at the top of the valve cover takes over. just make sure your valve cover tube is pre turbo you dont what to push your boost into your crank case. youll have no oil flow in the turbo can could blow your turbo seals or burn oil.
2 is intresting it works like this. its for low end acceleration. its designed to give you low end torqe and you lose on the top end. removing this on an NA engine means youll have almost no power before 3000 rpm but after it gets fun. trubos should compensate for this a little but not compleatly. I removed mine with no problems should give you better flow at the top end but youll lose a little under 2000.
3 thats a PARE valve it is designed to add air to your exhaust system. it basically works like a pre cat. it allows air in to burn off unburnt fuel. I dont know how you can leave that in and install a turbo. no room. on the newer KAs this was removed. it does little to help emissions and will throw no codes. the upside about it. lots of free vacuum lines to run to your wast gate.
- Dont worry about the brake booster. your idea only comes into play when you are doing a burn out. you have to produce boost and use the brake at the same time. even then i dont think it has much to do with it. mine works great. keep in mind when you take y our foot off the gas your at -20 if not -28 PSI so no pressure.
5 run it off the oil pressure witch with a splitter oil pressure switch one way oil line the other. make sure to put a restrictor in. get the right size for your turbo and the PSI you should be running in a trubo. T25 need a max of 43PSI KAs run 80-90.
Alright thanks. That helps alot and makes everything make sense. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
Np Good luck with the setup.