Guys i bought a mustang 5.0 is was converted over to maf it was running, untill i brought it to my freind to mess with the timing on the car.The car stalled out and wouldnt start back up.Im not gettin spark i changed the controll module and coil , what else could it be need help asap please!
Obvious ones first…is every plug wire connected? You replaced the coil…is it firmly bolted to the sheet metal? I’ve had mine wiggle loose and looses it’s ground.
How much did you alter timing? Did you pull the spout connector to do so? Did you replace it?
That’s all I can come up with right now…
does it run then suddenly just die? or does it run rough right away and then die? could be that the timing is messed up. if its a stock motor, you really dont want to go more than 10 degrees advance (or so im told) and keep in mind that if you do go with advanced timing you should prob run a higher octane fuel. not that either of those things will solve the problem, just FYI
i think LXTACY has your bases covered, check all those things. if none of that works, then you might want to look into checking the engine codes (you can either use a scanner or do it the old fashioned way which i can explain to you if you want)
10 degrees advanced is base. Many stock Mustang guys will advance this up to 14-16 and run the higher octane, just to clarify.
i meant 10 degrees over what base would be. i have mine at 15 (total, so 5 above base) but when i bought the car it was at 10 OVER base and didnt really do anything except require me to put 93 in the tank. i tuned it back down to base right away because i didnt notice much of a difference between the 2.
EDIT: id honestly just put the car back at 10 degrees and leave it if the motor is stock. on a completely stock motor you’re really not going to notice that much of a difference if you bump it up 4-5 degrees, or at least i didnt.
You run an AOD. T5 cars the bump in timing is noticable. Bumped timing, along with gears, slicks, and exhaust were some of the main components in putting stock Mustangs into the 12’s, it’s good for 5-10rwhp. Also, if your car was at 20 degrees that’s bordering on detonation.
all the plugs and everything are good, he bought the car which was swapped over and alot of stuff was changed by the previous owner so not much is known, timeing marks were scribed in so we didnt lose posistion of where the timeing was when it was running, and no im not the friend who he brought it to he brought it to our friend john who works on many stangs and owns 2, after hearing how the coil has to be grounded mabe the coil could be bad because we hooked up a known good one but did not mount it to the car just hooked up the wires.
Sometimes electronics will act funny when hot…let it cool off and set back to set timming to the marks…it may start. the ignition module might be faulty. Also can try to tap the mass air.
it hasnt started in almost a week now he replaced the ignition control module and still no spark
yah wats speedped said i think im going to play with it tomorrow afternoon.
Sorry I did not read the first post correctly…
Loosen distributor holding bolt with ½" wrench, remove plug from coil, turn ign on, while holding the coild plug ~ ¼" away from the coil tower, rotate distributor left-right-left…spark doesn’t arc from coil to plug = next step…spark arcs from coil to plug = check condition of distributor rotor and cap, and replace.
Place ignition key in on, with the 12-vdc test light connected to a good ground, probe the (+) terminal at the coil (Red/Lt Green wire)…test light off = usually an ignition switch or 20 GA fuse link problem…test light on = next step.
Place ignition key in on, with the 12-vdc test light connected to a good ground, probe the (-) terminal at the coil (Tan/Yellow wire)…test light off = replace coil, test light on = next step.
Place ignition key in on, with the 12-vdc test light connected to a good ground, probe the (-) terminal at the coil (Tan/Yellow wire), rotate distributor left-right-left and check test light…test light blinks = replace coil…test light on = next step.
Ign On, backprobe or disconnect TFI and check with test light, pin #4 (ICM Power)…test light on = next step, test light off = open problem in wiring that needs tracing and repair.
if anyone wants to come help us out with this tommorow you can pm me and let me know that would be appreciated and youd get to meet speedped79
yeah it would be great if we could get some extra help, if able to give me a cal on the cell 603-0512 or just p.m me.
Car can still run without it. You’ll just lose your timing curve.
Make sure #1 is TDC (you might be 180 degrees off), at the same time make sure the distributor is pointing at #1 on the cap. Then double check that all spark plug wires are in the correct firing order. Your coil should be a 1 plug deal, also with the control module.
Does it have an aftermarket ignition (ie. MSD) or is it still stock??
Fixed today and running good it was the whole distributor , put a new one on and fired rite up! 
thanks everyone
Glad its running