witch welds look cold and contaminated?
Why? 4th gen’s with t-tops have an identical roof structure to the hard top cars. The only thing that would happen differently in a roll over would be the glass would go everywhere.
I’m not 100% positive on this but I think chromoly becomes mandated with different classes of serious drag only cars
Hang on, lemme save and paint these thingers so I can show exactly.
edit; Fuck, don’t have photoshop on here… sec
Booo, hafta do it this way since I’m retarded. yay double post.
possibly, possiblyyyyyyy… Was he using 4130 filler?
E70S2/6 tends to work… well, nicer.
Easier, and better overall… It’s what we typically use when not specified as requiring 4130.
Also, make sure all those craters are filled in… 4130 has a horrible tendency to crack at TIG craters that people leave behind.
preheating helps like a motherfucker too.
edit;
tried to find a 4130 to use as an example… but couldn’t find anything of what im trying to show.
but if you look at this one…
http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fei%3DUTF-8%26p%3D4130%2520chromoly%2520weld%26fr2%3Dtab-web%26fr%3Dyfp-t-106%26rand%3D1244852732932&w=465&h=349&imgurl=static.flickr.com%2F3160%2F2958791666_a646333dd7.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2Fonthegroundperformance%2F2958791666%2F&size=37k&name=OTGP+Tig+Welding&p=4130+chromoly+weld&oid=23d1a85878fcfb44&fusr=On+the+Groun...&hurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2Fonthegroundperformance%2F&no=4&tt=10&sigr=11vagjd8l&sigi=11gt1rjqf&sigb=13qi4h471&sigh=11kvlc2vi&type=JPG
See how the weld has a nice clean smooth look?
Then the welds on your rollcage have kinda speckles and stuff on them.
Don’t get me wrong, good welds… not great, theyll do for what you need for sure.
Just missing the minor stuff.
Welding with dirty tungsten and such.
I totally understand welding on 4130 is pretty different from carbon or stainless…
But just pointing things out… easy fix when he’s welding it.
But then again, it really doesn’t matter for a rollcage 
Edit again;
If his machine has pulse, it will make 4130 look like… I dunno…
like perfectly shaped jailbait tits.
(the current machine I use does not have it, but I often use someones machine that does… and it’s so much easier… Especially when welding OOP)
I believe Nick did my cage while at ProCar? Anyway he knows WTF he’s doing (not countering the informative posts from Hass, I know dick-on-a-stick about welding) and its nice to see him doing yours John. However - unrelated to HIs work, it seems the cage has a pretty big gap from the car / pillars? Seems like a lot of room to allow crumple / energy transfer / whatever, I guess the road-racer stuff’s rubbed off on me but guys in “this” world tuck stuff up TIGHT and its always implied that the bigger the gap the less safe it is. Maybe because yours started life as a kit? Not trying to knock it, just curious / trying to learn here…
PS +1 for jailbait tits, you should post examples so we can… you know, compare to the welds? 
Like I was saying before just to reinforce, there is a roof structure on t-top cars.
^^ thats a serious cage setup.
No, the welds are not “cold”. In fact the heat looks to be just right. The three things I would suggest is to:
A: Keep the beads tighter.
B: Fill craters.
C: Use a “gas lens” (you can weld with your tungsten waaaaay out to get into tight spots, and still have superior gas coverage).
Welding cages takes alot of time, and is a total pain in the ass/back/knees/shoulders ect.ect. This is a real nice job, and it’s hard to lay down a “perfect” weld when your laying upside down, with your feet pressed against a windsheild or shit like that. The fit up of those parts is excellent, btw.! Good job and :tup:
And yes, 4130 can be stuck together with ER70S-6 or the triple deoxidizing wire ER70S-6. I’m sure that’s what was used.
Check out this one hes redoing right now, and thats patrick budd I think he knows a little bit too on this stuff. 
today I welded the plates to the floor with my mig, even that wasn’t easy. The front under the dash you can’t see, I had to use a mirror to check how it was going.
Dave wait till you see it with the panels in, its realllllly tight and a great fit.
Gona order my harness today, think I’m going to get a set of RJS 5point (2" sub) black camlocks. Simpson dosn’t do recerts now, thats lame.
nice now go run some 10’s!
Some serious cage work in this thread!
Humm, didn’t you just sum up the exact same thing I just said?
and I was only referring to the one weld being cold, the rest looked fine.
Since it’s not totally fused in to the piping…
This was welded out of the car, btw.
You two should make your own thread with a poll.
“Who is the better weld grader, Hass or LowlyOilBurner?”
.
Well, what do I know, I only worked for an inspection firm…lol.
Ok, i’ll vote for you. 
I voted for joelster,
wat?
Ah I didn’t think of that (that you were putting the inside back together after) hehe, good stuff.
Pretty sure CrMoly moves around a good bit when welding. Why wasn’t the cage finish welded in the vehicle
It was finish welded in the car, how else would you do it? Just are few things were out of the car.
Its pretty much done, welded some harness tabs on. And fit the new carpet, and most of the interior panels. Looks really nice, bar fits great very tight.
Looks good, I haven’t heard great things about Wolfe cages. Everyone seems to have problems with the bends. I went with S&W, it fit real nice. The car looks like its coming along well. When are you going to run??