Hey guys whats up.
Well no I don’t have my 240 anymore, :(, but that does’nt mean that I can’t post up all the info and pic’s I have. Who knows, maybe someone will want to use the same set up and get a good idea on what was envolved and needed 
. So here we go.
This is what my turbo system consisted of, SSAutochrome t25/t28 manifold, SR T25 turbo, stock SR turbo elbow and downpipe, SR 370cc injector’s, S15 SMIC and piping, GReddy Type S bov, Megan Racing fuel pressure regulator, Walboro fuel pump, SAFC, Megan Racing oil pressure and boost/vacumm gauges.
Now as it turned out, just prior to installing everything I blew my old motor. There was something like 354K km’s on so it was to be expected and if I had’nt of been drifting on it, probabley would have kept going 
. Anyway, I sourced a new motor and both it and the turbo stuff went in at the same time.
My buddy Justin preping my new motor. I found a 95 KA with only 180K km’s on it and it’s from an automatic so it has’nt been abused. Also synthetic oil changes every 4-5K km’s. I replaced the front crank seal, rear main seal and pilot bushing just to be safe.
Rear shot of the turbo mounted to the manifold and that to the motor.
A front/top shot where you can see where I slotted the manifold where it bolts to the motor. Doing this releaved ALL the stress on it and thus, helped to prevent any cracking or breaking as there is some room to flex.
I wish I could remember all the exact fittings used here for the oil pressure feedline but I can’t, sorry :(. This line is where the oil comes from the motor to the turbo.
Here’s the feed line where it screws in to the turbo. Again I just can’t remember the fitting size but it is a compression fitting with oil restrictor as well.
The stainless steel feed line screwed in to the restrictor and that screwed to the compression fitting which was screwed in to the turbo.
Due to how close the manifold was, I decided to wrap the metal brake lines in aluminum tape to help keep the temp’s down and deflect some heat.
To start off with, I used an SMIC set up from a 180sx and it worked out ok. Here you can see where both the hot & cold pipes go down in to the wheel well. You need to widen the hole that is in the wheel well to accomidate two pipes instead of just the one that is there with the stock 240sx air box set up.
Now because the kade motor’s throttle body area is angled differently then the CA engine, I modified a DOHC cold air intake pipe and adapted it to the smic rad cross over pipe, which then was attached to the throttle body.
My first (and so far only) attempt at painting. I was going with a dark metalic purple concept for under the hood.
Finally, the end result looked like this .
Now with regards to the settings used on my SAFC to controll everything, here they are, at least what I had last recoreded. I know I did some more fine tuning but I don’t have that info anymore.
NE POINTS: 1000rpm, 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 3500rpm, 4000rpm, 4500rpm, 5000rpm and 6000rpm
THROTTLE POINT’S: Lo - 15%, Hi - 35%
FUEL CORRECTION FOR NE POINTS:
LO > From 1000rpm’s to 5000rpm’s -27%, 6000rpm’s -26%
HI > -15%, -13%, -10%, -8%, -5%, -4%, -3%, -2%
Decl:
THR% - 5.0%
NE1 - 1.9
NE2 - 3.5
All in all I was SUPER pleased with how everything turned out and at the stock 7psi, DAM, when I trommped on it she went sideways in 3rd gear :R . Throttle responce was amazing, boost came on around 3000rpm’s and just kept pulling right up to around 6350-6500 ish which was pretty crazy for a little T25 turbo. This set up VS a similar SR20det, there was no compairison as I smoked them! Both off the line and on the highway, it was great .
Well thats about it and I hope that people starting out with a similar project will find this helpfull.
All the best and good luck.
Cheers
.