SOHC KA-T Finally Done!

SON240sx Automotive
1

Just this past Thursday I finally put the car back on the road, turbo setup complete.

I’m running a freshly rebuilt T3 from a Z31, currently at stock boost, 6 psi.

Nearly everything you see was made from scratch by myself in my garage. This includes the downpipe, complete exhaust, intercooler piping, etc. These peices are all 18 gauge mild mandrel bends, TIG welded by myself.

I’m running an S-AFC with 370cc injectors from a CA, resistors wired in of course. Tunning was done with my PLX Devices M300 wideband.

The car runs absolutely great, no bogging, stuttering, or hesitation of any kind. Infact it runs just like stock, other then the occasional backfire.
14.7 in cruise/idle, 11.6-11.8 in boost.

This is my first attempt at turbocharging any motor, and I think it came out pretty decent.

Here is the car, pig nose chopped nicely for the front mount.

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/549/carfront6nc.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/8047/carback2ak.jpg

Here is the motor & turbo setup.

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/3012/motor16ij.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/7771/turbo10jv.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/4830/turbo25lr.jpg

Here is the downpipe and exhaust, made completely from scratch. Both 3", no resonator. Sounds quiter then an NA with a 2.5" and resonator. Nice deep tone, absolutely no raspiness.

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/5225/downpipe8uj.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/6743/exhaust11fg.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/436/exhaust21oz.jpg

Here is the fancy cold pipe routing in order to avoid relocating the battery.

http://img328.imageshack.us/img328/192/coldpipe17lz.jpg

http://img328.imageshack.us/img328/4536/coldpipe37ay.jpg

Here is the gauge pod and console. The gauge pod isn’t pushed in entirely since I have to clean up some wiring behind it. Once fully in, it will be completely flush.

Now the neat thing is that the A/F Gauge is wired to show me my wideband signal. :smiley:

http://img328.imageshack.us/img328/6554/console1kg.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/8884/gauges3qb.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/3639/safc4kz.jpg

Here is the wideband sensor, along with the converter that allows my A/F gauge to display the wideband signal.

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/5391/wideband10jn.jpg

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/5379/wideband24rm.jpg

I boxed in my rear lower control arms with 16 gauge sheet, much stiffer.

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/5872/rearcontrolarm5lh.jpg

Some of you may remember the 18mm spacers I made a few months back. Here they are on the car. Open wheel racing anyone?

http://img318.imageshack.us/img318/6919/flush3lf.jpg

And finally, here is my TIG welder. Don’t let the size fool you. It’s a Miller Maxstar, 150A max, penetration good for 1/4" steel plate.

http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/5510/tigwelder2hu.jpg

2

good job

now change the front camber…it is way positive.

3

It’s actually perfect.

-0.3 on either side.

The rear I have to make more positive, it’s at -2.2, far too much.

Rediculous negative camber is retarded.

4

Titan, that looks freekin’ awesome, I have to say the quality of that work is outstanding.

5

i’d still run at least -1 degree camber in front even on the street unless you have super stiff sidewall tires

looks pretty sweet dude

6

Awesome job, looks great! Update us with some numbers once you get them down.

“Perfect” camber is a subjective thing. It’s not out of stock spec until -1.5 degrees. For a balance between performance and tire wear, right around 1.5 degrees is good. I run 2.0 in front, 1.7 in the rear, and have no abnormal wear problems and it grips very well. There’s really no reason to run close to 0 camber besides the slight savings in tire wear - the car is not as stable through corners, and if you drive hard will wear the shoulders of the tires before the tread it should be wearing.

7

SO SO SO good…

Very very nice. I especially like your piping’s finishing and the good clamps used. :thumleft:

8

Very clean install and very impressive craftsmanship! I wish I knew how to weld :frowning:

9

who made that manifold?

10

I think he did…

11

Very nice work!

Not that I’m interested, but for those looking to turbo the KA you should post what you would charge to do individual parts of the job. It seems a lot of guys want to do it, but don’t know where to start, etc.

Just some easy money if you dont mind doing it ;]

12

FRIGGIN SUPER WORK!!!

Welcome to the world of the KA-T and I hope to see it in person one day. :smiley:

Have a good one.

Easy 8)

13

alll i gotta say is… your wayyyy ahead of me man, lol, but yeah awsome = )

14

Awesome job, where do I sign up for TIG lessons? :lol:

15

Took ya long enough…

But looks like you did things right… GJ, see you in a week.

16

Lol, i was just about to say that. … so that took you like what, 4 years? :wink:

Looks good, can’t wait till we build my exhaust, if i ever get it to waterloo.

Hey Pete, i just remebered, i let you drive my SR, remeber that, you almost stalling it in intersections? i want to stall that.

17

Is it just me or we seem to have a lots of ka-t this year . Soon we can organize some ka-t meet and all go to the track before the snow fall
Good work , you have everything done perfectly from tuning to piping . congrats

18

Thanks guys, all the props are much appreciated.

Lots of blood and sweat went into this car… stitches too.

The manifold was not made by me, it was made by Gladman. It’s not ideal, but it does its job well.

I’m not an expert at welding, just about all my skill was self-taught, but I’d be happy to give any beginners lessons if you happen to stop by.

The clamps are T-bolt clamps, and yes they are great. 19-20 Hg of vacuum at hot idle! :d

And Nik, I didn’t stall nothing! I drove like a pro all the way home. :smiley:

You can drive it, but not in those damn fancy shoes! I want to drive that rally buggy of yours.

19

Yeah so do i buddy :frowning:

20

Good Job

That is exactly how I did my Cold Pipe for my SR