Ok, this winter will kick some ass! I have a looooong list of shit to do:
-Fix small amount of rust left
-Change all fuel and brake lines
-Install KA-T!!!
-Install rear Z32 brakes
-Put in non-HICAS subframe
-Have alot of shit powder coated under the car
This is what I have so far:
GTi-R T28
China Manifold
Megan Flex Downpipe
China Turbo Elbow
550cc Injectors
Blitz LM Intake
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Precision FMIC
Random Piping Bits
HKS SQV BOV
Crazy Painted Valve Cover For 5000whp
China Test Pipe
Dart Izumi Exhaust
And maybe more, who the hell knows…
So what is this valve cover you ask? What if I told you it was sparkly blue, pink and zebra print? You would say I was gay and lame? I would think so to, but it’s quite the opposite.
Well the styles are sick, but the quality of work is so-so. There’s a lot of paint drip and he didn’t tape off properly, but whatevr, won’t be seen that much.
I’m looking for 1 bar on the turbo, so maybe like 250-300whp, I guess. It’s my first turbo so ganna see what happens, I’ll probably blow something big in little time. lol
What kind of management are you using on the ka-t?
Do not use only an SAFCII, and make sure you get a wideband.
Also…the megan flew downpipe will hit the floor of your car…I guarentee it. Its made for an SR (kinda) and it can only be used on the KA if there’s some sort of adapter. Both Me and Ramesh (Silvia_Drift) had this problem on our KA-T’s
As for management, I’m not getting any AFC. I’m not sure on what to do tho, I was thinking some kind of tune like Enthalpy or something of the sort that can be done locally on a dyno.
I’m ganna get a wideband to when I decide on the gauges I want and where to put them cause I want everything to be flush mounted and stock looking.
By the way, if anyone copies my valve cover, I’m going to go key your car.
my megan downpipe fit alright. I even put it up myself but I do admit, it was a REALLY tight fit. You have to make sure you bolt it from the elbow and then bolt it to your exhaust with the entire exhaust off the hangers. I tried it others way and I could never get the bolts to line up.
Had to do it this way even on the SR. Megan fitment sucks ass.
Yea getting a tuned ecu is the one of the best routes.
Samson, it fit better because you have an S14, the fitment for an S13 SUCKS BALLSSS. Mine was hitting the floor, and it was so tight i had a exhaust leak because the bolts wouldnt tighten up enough.
just a mail order ECU wont cut it either IMHO… you need more control… maybe ECU + SAFC… i did that on an SR for a while and it was fast… didnt last too too long though.
my megan dp with flex pipe rubbed on SR S13… i just went back to straight DP… if you mount it right you wont have any issues… you’ll be cracking elbows before you crack manifolds.
Emance is shit. Jason just ripped off tunes from JWT, Efi Specialist, Enthalapy etc.
Still, all of these tuned ECUs are still garbage like Bing said. They are tuned to be excessively “safe” which can be detrimental in the long run. Even though many cars can run the same setup, they are never exactly the same. Most people with tuned ECUs still have to get some kind of piggyback in order to fine tune the ECU for their setup.
If you have cash, go with AEM EMS. If not, read up on the Calum RT ECU and try and learn how to tune it yourself. Its a relatively low cost tuning solution where you can you Nissan Datascan and Consult to monitor the engine. Tunerpro RT is a free piece of software that you can use to create tunes. Many people also purchase Nistune software to use with the Calum RT ECU. Megasquirt and Bikirom are also options but these are far too complex for me.
If you want to go with a piggyback, from my research, the best one available is the AEM F/IC. Don’t waste time with a SAFC or even Emanage. The SAFC is complete garbage. The way it works is that it “tricks” the ECU to change the fuel map but adjusting the MAFS voltage. While this sounds like its fine, the timing map gets all screwed up and the tune is not very accurate. The SAFC has no timing adjustment.
The Emanage is just way too expensive to get all the features you need such as timing adjustment. Its not as easy to use as the SAFC either, and it uses the same MAFS voltage method for fuel control. Timing control is also not very accurate and doesn’t seem to work all the time.
The AEM F/IC is like a baby EMS. The F/IC adjusts fuel by increasing and decreasing injector pulse, so timing is not affected. The timing control is just like EMS where you can adjust the timing map. It even has a built in MAP sensor. A lot of people are running off the factory MAFS when in negative pressure (vacuum) and then switches to the MAP sensor when in positive pressure (boost) for a more accurate tune.
Hope this helps. Take all this information with a grain of salt and do your own research. This is all stuff I have read (I am still trying to make up my mind on what unit to buy). I am personally still using a SAFC and a factory ECU lol.
And please feel free to correct me if I said something incorrect.
What I would like is an ECU tune like Enthalpy, but done on a dyno so it’s right for my car. I don;t know if that’s possible around here, or else I’d go with the baby AEM. The EMS would be sick, but out of my budget for this year, maybe next year.
