Detail coming saturday, Also i get my hella supertones in today. Bye bye weak ass honda horn
Did the passenger side wheel bearing last night, everything sure makes it easier when the bolts previously went back on with anti-seize. Took about 3 hours to do the bearing and an oil change. Changes the spark plugs the other day as well. Car drives like a brand new machine with just the spark plug and oil change. The bearing wasn’t bad to begin with but the car is dead quiet now.
I took river road to work this morning, top down, in the rain, no one else around. I was smiling like an asshole blazing up that road lol, i love driving this car .
Glad your enjoying it man. Its come a long ass way. I picture the ford mustang convertible commecial where the guy was frozen solid with a big shit eating grin on his face lol.
:lol Always wanted to put atleast two of those in my civic.
they are nice and loud, i had a set in my wrx too
haven’t updated this in a while but i got the izze engineering air pump delete kit so i’ll be doing that sometime this week before i put the s2k away for the winter
1/8/2012
Finally an update on the S. I did a couple of things this past weekend…
I started with wiring the izze-engineering air pump delete kit. It’s a nice little part and pretty simple to wire up, it would be a lot easier without a race seat to work around though, the s is soo small to begin with and the high bolsters of the sparco don’t make it any easier it get under the dash. On top of that my wiring was a little sloppy since i’ve had the dash removed to install the roll cage. So while i was down there wiring up the izze air pump delete i took the time to clean everything up and get it back to factory location. I even managed to get the kick panel back on which was a challenge with the roll cage so close, but i got it :). (The izze module is behind the thick wire loom on the right side).
kick panel back on
Then i gutted the air pump and all components from the car. Looks a lot cleaner in the engine bay now. I’d still like to get a cover for the front crossmember, hopefully i can find one in kevlar. I’ve got a bypass valve cover plate coming in the mail so once that gets here i’ll install that as well.
Next i wired up my cruise control buttons. I lost the buttons a while ago with the install of an aftermarket steering wheel so it hasn’t been functioning for some time. A while back modded and installed some momentary buttons in my engine start panel and wrapped it in carbon. Then i ran into the problem of finding which wires i had to hook them up to and never really got a good confirmation so it sat. Well friday i spent a ton of time searching (and confirming in the honda manual) and figured out which wires i needed to tap into. Well, i finally did the wiring and now i’ve got the cruise control functioning again.
I wired the black button as set and the red button as resume. (The blue wire shown is my horn button)
Here is now the wiring works, this clip plugs into the clock spring (which i no longer have).
orange = common
light green with red stripe = set
light green with black stripe = resume
tucked back up under the steering column
cruise control buttons in the start button panel
Next i clipped the vss wire. I’ve also been wanting to do this for some time as i hate having to come to a complete stop to put the top up or down (typically up while it’s raining). With this wire clipped (white wire with black strip, located under the passenger side dash) i can click the parking brake up 1 click, enough to activate the brake light on the dash, and put the top up or down. This is very convenient while doing 5mph in slow moving traffic and not having to come to a complete stop. I used a male a female spade plug on each end so i can hook it up again if it’d like to.
This is also where i have my V1 power module located
Nice job!
That pump delete really cleans it up under the hood.
so the VSS wire is all you ahve to cut to make it a one click soft top??
Not a one click top, but it’ll allow the car to roll with the e-brake up one click instead of making you come to a dead stop to use the top.
Looking good!
:rofl @ “JDM tie down”
thanks, battery tie down is not covered in rust so that’s all i care about
How much more are you planning on removing from the engine bay?
It looks pretty clean as it sits now compared to stock.
i’m pretty much there i think. just going to powder coat my valve cover and add a carbon spark plug cover, and that might be it for the engine bay.
Just doing a couple mild things on the car now that the rebuild has been finished.
next up i’m going to replace the door speakers, run new wire, add an amp (build an amprack to fit where the spare used to sit) and get new trunk carpets. my trunk carpets are all cut up from a subwoofer enclosure that used to be in the trunk
I love your audio work. Can’t wait to see that done.
Did you have any experience with sound deadening layers?
Most people use dynamat type material to get rid of vibrations but from my brief reading sound deadening requires thickness as well as materials where sound block is primary function, instead of secondary such as dynamat.
i’ve always just used a deadener and have had good results. If you look through my tacoma build thread i used lexan to seal the holes in my doors and a couple layers of fatmat xxxtreme to deaden everything. My truck has no rattle and sounds 10x better then i did before. I’ll do the same thing with the s2k.
i don’t want to go crazy with the audio on the s2k but i have polk speakers in the doors now and i hate them, so i just want to get some jl c2’s or c5’s and put 75-100 watts to them and be done with it. Build a clean little amprack and that’ll be it. I’m looking for a 2 or 4 channel JL slash series amp (or a JL G2250) if you know of any for sale
Just stole this off ebay for 95 bucks shipped! just need a threaded pcv valve now because it’s the 04-05 valve cover.
