My SpecV JWT Cams

Pyrexx my JWT Camshafts are awesome, they were the first ones done in the city on my car, well with the valve springs, and I have had problems with the valve springs (I think that was the problem) and it was causing the SES light to come on saying Multiple Cylinder misfire, I put octane booster in my car and it fixed the problem. Octane booster ensures valves aren’t sticking, I had mills nissan do it and it was $1,800 for them to do the valve spring camshafts and BSRK, I would recomend the camshafts from JWT, they give you more power then the Nismo ones, but I think you should stay away from the valve springs, if boosting the Spec’s RPM up to 7200 is never going to be feasable then I would just do the Camshafts and leave the Valve springs unless you are afraid of bad misshifts and want the extra strenght of the JWT ones. BSRK I think is a must on this car tho, it makes the shift transition so smooth at high sppeds it feels like the engines never slows down, just contiuous pull.

OH MY GOD, you paid $1800 for a place ot do that. I would have done it for you for a measly $1200. :wink:

Really though, all the thing you had done can be done easily in a garage over a weekend. Just think you just spent enough cash between the parts and teh labour to practically buy a turbo kit.

Anyway, not trying to make you feel bad. JWT cams are great.

Yeah, I’m going to go for cams this year, and I’ll probably do it myself. The only reason I didn’t want to do my MMI’s and SS Lines myself is because I didn’t want my motor falling out of the car if something went wrong, and I definately don’t trust myself to do any brake work with no experience.

I might tackle the BSR myself too, we’ll have to see. I like working on my car, but when enthusiasm and lack of experience collide, the results can be UGLY. :slight_smile:

EDIT: Oh, I forgot to ask - and this might sound stupid, but is there enough room to install the cams with the motor in the car? Looks kinda cramped on that side of the engine. I imagine there would have to be room - it would be stupid to have to pull to motor to install that stuff.

Yeah you can put the cams in with the block in the car. I don’t have cams yet, but plenty of guys do and not once have I heard of anyone having to pull the block.

AS for spending money on install, yeah I mean I had NISSAN DO my brakes because I put the rotors lines and calipers on all at once and I had some caliper issues that I wanted to make sure were fixed. Plus I wanted my lines pressure bled, but paying $1800 fro the BSR and cams is woah… ALOT. :slight_smile:

I imagine it depends on where you go. The dealer I bought the car from, Ericksen Nissan in Edmonton, has an $85/hour shop rate. And yeah, $1800 is really steep. That’d pay for 95% of the mods I was planning on doing this year…

The Valve springs were like a 6 hour job alone, they are apparently really hard to get out on our cars, so yeah could have saved some money there, or I would have done it myself, but I’m not gonna touch valve springs/

I should think it would be hard to mess a valve spring installation up, as long as you had the proper tools to torque the parts down with.

Of course, I can say that having never done it on any of my vehicles… :E

Ya, valve springs are hard to do, and usually you need a special tool for it to compress the springs. Had to do it a while back on Reg’s race car, and it was a bitch.

Yeah, Nissan had the special tool, and they had to modify the special tool for the valve springs to make it work, so yeah it’s a bitch to do, I recomend not doing this mod, unless you awre worried about some serious mis-shifts

Yeah, or if we finally get any one of the 500,000 ECU upgrades that have been promised to us… :finger:

Well according to Vboard it is pouintless to do valve springs cause we are never gonna be able to raise our idle regardless of an ECU unles we are Nismo/Nissan and can re-build our motor after every race. Raise your hand if thats you! :roll:

Well actually, if you did the valve springs and an ECU upgrade is applied, I’d raise the fuel cut off to 6600 RPM, because the Spec gets a power spike from 6200-6500. According to the engine’s designer, the QR25DE should be safe up to 6700, but after that the piston speeds are off the map and the rods can’t take the strain.

my car shifts at like 6480

Yep, mine too, if you let it. The fuel cut doesn’t happen until 6500. I don’t know how often I’d want to do that though, since it puts a hell of a lot of strain on our already weak rods…

If I were You I would just suck it up :finga:
Just jokin man

he he he, lemme know how that engine rebuild goes, man. :smiley: