I am thinking, no I am planning on putting Nitrous in my spec V right after I save up for my SAFC II Controller, and the awesome looking mounting bracket for it by PTI, but I am really undecided on wheter I should be putting the NX kit in my car or the ZEX system in my car, does anybody know if it is actually possible to get a Zex kit for Spec V’s I was lookin on the website and it only showed a kit for 1998 Sentra’s so I was wondering if it is possible to get ZEx, I don’t really know too much about Nitrous right now so all the help or info possible would be great.
Technically you don’t need to buy a “kit”. You can just buy the neccessary parts and pieces and put it together as a “kit”. So yes, you could technically put whatever brand on there that you want to.
Yes, but how exactly does, the EFI that Zex operate, and wouldn’t it be cheaper to buy a “kit” then all individual pieces? Also I’m not sure how familiar you are with zex, but they make a ‘Purge Light/valve’ system would that be able to be placed on any nitrous system, I’m guessing yes, but I just want to know all the details about everything befor eI dive in too deep. But hey 75-80 horse power for like $800-$900 how can you go wrong.
I was just going to say that. Most “kits” come with standard parts that are used on all nitrous installs.
Now that said, I noticed on the VBoard that you asked the difference between wet kits and direct port kits.
A dry nitrous kit shoots ONLY nitrous into the engine. It’s up to your ECU to add more fuel if it can (unless your kit is between the engine and MAF), or if your car is tuned properly and you’re using a small shot (50HP) you won’t get any bad effects.
A wet kit shoots nitrous AND fuel at the same time into the intake system. This is a lot safer because it prevents a lean condition where you have too much o2 and not enough gas. You generally use these on applications requiring a bigger NOS shot or where you don’t want to upgrade the fuel system. This doesn’t require any ECU mods or anything of that sort because the fuel is automatically metered into the charge by the NOS jets. (I can’t remember if NOS systems get their own actual injector to shoot the fuel or not, but I think they don’t.)
A direct port kit moves the NOS nozzles into the actual intake manifold. The other systems generally shoot it into your CAI after the MAF. Direct Port Kits can be either wet or dry, but most are wet since the guys using this system are running large shots. (Like LS1 Camaros running 150HP shots.) Direct Port kits have slightly less lag than the other systems, though it happens so fast it doesn’t really make much of a difference. I’m sure there are more advantages or DP kits, but I can’t remember them right now - I think they just lend to the car being a lot less likely to run lean.
The kits you’re talking about are generally cheaper than buying all the parts because you’ll have all the bits you’ll need in one package, not because it is Spec V specific. Things like the NOS bottle and brackets, window switches, solenoids, jet kits, braided lines, and purge lines are the things that are normally included in a kit - it just saves you time having to run all over the place to grab all the needed parts.
Yeah I’m Pretty sure I will go with the NX Stage one kit, But I would love to be able to put the ZEX purge Valve light on the kit so when I’m at a light I can scare the hell out of the car next to me. hahaha
I don’t konw a whole lot about nitrous, but I can only assume you can put the purge system on any car/system. Just buy it separately and bolt it on.
Yep, it’s a standard part. I’ve seen videos of the lighted purge nozzles…they can be pretty funny depending on where you mount them. You kind of tip your hat when you’re getting ready to race (at the drag strip, of course ;)) and you purge your NOS, however.
I actually wanted to vent NOS into the exhaust system so the purge would be hidden, but the responses I got led me to believe that that would cause problems with heat and ultimately damage the exhaust system. Oh well, if I wanted a sleeper I wouldn’t have bought a yellow car, right? 
You can only use a WET system on the V, because it has a returnless fuel system.
Also, you’ll definietly want a window switch. REV limiter cuts your fuel off. If you’re spraying when that happens you’ll be have Nitrous going in without fuel. A few minutes later you’ll have to call your friends to come help you pick up your rods off the road.
I know a guy in the US and he runs a 75 shot fairly consistently. The SPEC does very well on nitrous.
If you wanted to do a real kickass set up you’d get an upgraded fuel system that runs a FPR and return line, but you can do very well with a basic set-up. Do you track teh car a lot or is this for street fun? If it’s the latter I’d be careful because I don’t think the police care too much for people running nitrous on the street. Be careful when you drive around purging that thing. 
Yeah, it seems like no one in the US is having much of a problem with nitrous.
And yes a window switch is a good idea. (For those that don’t know):
A window switch is a mini-ecu that monitors the engine rpm. You can program the box to only activate the nitrous between two RPM limits. In the spec’s case, lets say 3200 RPM and 6200RPM.
You’ll also want to make sure that you get a full-throttle switch, which will activate the nitrous every time you floor the gas, instead of having to push a button. This will probably be included in the kit you buy. Silverboost, are you aware of any problems using a WOT throttle switch with the electronic throttle control? All the ones I’ve seen are mechanical and work when the actual pedal touches the switch.
Yeah with the drive by wire system, you need the one that goes on the floor. Seems kind of ghetto to me to have a switch that you have to physcially press on with the pedal. I would think it wouldn’t be accurate, but I guess it works. I think there’s a way to wire in a WOT switch though instead of depressing one.
Well, I remember seeing one on an Amercian mechanic show, I think it might have been Horsepower TV. How it worked is the switch was actually mounted on the throttle body, and when the driver floored it, a factory tab on the throttle body would hit the WOT switch and activate the nitrous that way. If I recall correctly, it was a much much easier install as well, plus there wasn’t any chance of the system being activated by moving floor mats or anything.
So I would need what on top of the Stage 1 NX kit?
Ok, here’s what the Stage 1 kit includes:
10lb. Nitrous Bottle W/High Flow Valve
Heavy Duty Bottle Mounting Brackets
Lifetime Guaranteed Large Solenoids
Heavy Duty 40 Amp Anti-Flyback Relay
16 Foot Braided Feed Line
Nitrous Filter
Nitrous Activation Switch (if you want to use a button) & WOT Switch (if you want activation to be on WOT)
Nitrous Express Shark Nozzle
All neccessary jets for 35-75 HP settings
Complete detailed installation instructions
What it doesn’t include is a window switch or a purge valve. They normally sell those as part of an “accessory package”. The window switch might be extra.
Something else you might want to consider is a bottle heater. It heats the bottle up so the nitrous comes out at the proper temperature to make the most power it can. This is optional, not really required, but a nice to have. The last thing you might want to get is a remote bottle opener, but that’s really something you’d use if you keep forgetting to open the nitrous bottle or if you want to keep the nitrous a secret and not have to open the trunk to open the bottle up. Of course, the LED purge valve kinda blows the sleeper aspect of the nitrous out the window.
Yeah, plus with the Remote bottle opener you would just be more of a pimp!
Perhaps…but they aren’t cheap. Last time I checked it was around $300 bucks for something you can do with your hand. Not really worth it in my book, especially if you’re getting a lighted purge valve that’s going to give your secret away anyway, you might as well go to the trunk and open the bottle manually.
Can you just keep the bottle open all the time? and who sxaid I was gonna have it in the trunk? :axe:
As far as I’m aware, you can keep the bottle open all the time on the street, although I doubt you’d do it all the time. Dumb question…you know it’s illegal to roll with nitrous in the tank right? Not that that would stop you, just wanted to make sure you’re aware.
You don’t have to keep it in the trunk really, but where are you going to hide it otherwise? Not sure there’s enough room under the rear seat, and you certainly wouldn’t be able to fit it under either of the front seats. Plus, in the trunk it’s nice and out of the way - especially if you lose your spare tire and put it in the tire well there.
Yuppers, nitrous is illegal.
Yeah and if it’s not in the trunk, good luck talking yourself out of a fine if you can see it in the back seat. Go with the trunk man. This ain’t The Fn’F. 
If you’re going to use it on the street, making it as concealed as possible is teh best way. It’s also the cleanest.