NAPA block assembling, quality work? Other good shops?

I also didn’t do a lot of things that should be done as it’s a 80HP build and even that number is optimistic. It’s expensive because it is very time consuming. And I put a good number of hours working on it daily.

Not to mention I’m surprised it has lasted this long, nor would I have cared if it popped. :slight_smile:

so i’ve done a bit of looking into it over the past couple hours and am a bit more intimidated than usually…and to the point where i’m uncomfortable.

If this was just a stock to stock build i might not care…but when i’m dumping thousands of dollars into a build, and planning on making a lot more power than stock, with turbos pretty significantly bigger than stock ones, running a LOT more boost than stock…there’s no point in trying to save a little money…go balls to the wall or go home.

That said the DIY option is out the window, i’m not risking all this work/time/money for nothing just to save maybe a grand or $1500 in the end…i’m going to do something i shoulda done years ago…do it right, THE FIRST TIME…and hopefully it’ll be the only time i have to, at least for a long time.

Is it april fools or opposite day?

Andy Wattbag making a sound decision…HOLY CRAP.

Although this is all ruined by the premise that he will go and attempt to win this $ at the casino.

:lol:

good decision.

kyle…attempt wasn’t all i did…and no, fail wasn’t either…i had an ok night…not up as much as i like to leave with, but up nonetheless.

The house doesnt lose.

If you were good enough to beat the house…you would have a gold bracelet.

the house never loses…but lucky for me i play a game where i’m not playing against the house in any way, shape or form. Strictly playing against other players…all the house does is take a very small cut for providing a dealer…

Learn the game before you talk the shit kiddo :stuck_out_tongue:

I still say if you were good enough at the game you would wear a gold bracelet and be on TV with your awful big green sunglasses on trying keep your lady gaga poker face legit.

x2, the cost of assembly between the block, the head, and then bolting them together and setting timing to my cam was 936$ after tax, of course i provided the parts

Sounds like you are making a very good decision. I look forward to seeing this after it is completed.

+1

did this include a small bore, and getting the block hot tanked? that sounds like an insane deal compared to other price figures being thrown around in this thread…

And while i know this is the better decision…those of you that say you can’t wait to “see” it once done won’t really want to see it that much, because i’ll probably put off painting and use money from the paint fund toward the build fund…so it won’t be much to look at once the build is done lol. It’ll still have the black t-tops/hatch…which really don’t bother me too much, but the front bumper will still be the haggard stock one since i refuse to put on the jspec unpainted and rock a 3-tone Z lol…black/red i almost like…black/red/peach will not do though.

you know not to buy the pistons until it comes back from the machine shop with a clean bill of health right? just making sure.

not ordering a thing until i talk to shops, and see what they want me to do to make it as easy/fast regarding turnaround…but i will not let them purchase the parts for me, that’s obvious.

Gonna try to find a shop that can do the machine work as well as assembly…or if it’s cheaper to have one machine, another assemble, i’ll go that route…but like i said earlier, baby steps…one thing at a time. Right now i’m just concerned with calling as many recommended places as possible, finding prices, possible guarantees on work, each shops capabilities, and their personal comfort levels with working on such a car…

lol, i just noticed…was my username seriously changed from 90NA300ZX to 9ONA3OOZX? fucking fantastic :bigclap:

Machine work prices have a wide range from the shops in the area depending on what they feel it is worth to them to do it and the type of machinery they have invested in. All engines are metal. A machine shop who is competent enough to work with domestic v8s are competent enough to work with any engine, so long as they can read specifications you are fine. If you have specific specs you would like in the engine let them know before machine work is performed. Machine work alone on a V6 engine can range from 600-1200. Again that is not including assembly. Some places have assembly cheap and some do not. You get what you pay for and if it’s cheap it’s probably thrown together fast and not cleaned too much. I have 30 hours of assembly time into the RB26DETT I just finished that does not include head work. I take my time and make sure it’s right some shops can slam engines together in about an hour from pan to carb, i’ve seen it done. It doesn’t mean it’s wrong, It just depends on how much attention to detail you are willing to pay for (and what they are willing to do, most of it is skimped out in the measuring and cleaning).

As for NAPA machine shop, I think they are fairly over priced, I have seen personally many mistakes from them in terms of mix ups, broken cranks, improper head work etc. They are great guys but they are human and do a lot of work so the chances that they are going to screw up are higher. They are also in the assembly line method of performing work and tend to crank it out the door with a good enough attitude, if you have problems they tend to get defensive rather than help.

It sounds like you are just upgrading your rod bolts… When replacing a rod bolt it’s not the same as just replacing it… You need to remove all the stock bolts, surface grind the caps and rods on a rod grinder, install the new bolts, bolt the rods back together to ARP specs then hone the big end on a rod hone. I would probably spend the money on a new set of rods as the price of doing all that might leave you a little shy of a new set to begin with and there are less chances for fuck ups such as a rod nut tightened too much and stretched too far or over honing.

Good luck.

can we make out?

all machine work included, bored 40 over, tanked, magnaflux (i think thats what its called), adjusted my valave springs with shims to make sure they fit well, really went out of their way

That is why i like J&L performance.They take there time and are spot on with everything.Sometimes you wonder if there to picky.

Yes, yes we can.