The o2 simulator was a complete failure… lol. The code disappeared for o2 sensor circuit no activity and instead came up with high volts. I checked the simulator and it was putting out what I believe was around 8.0-8.5 volts (wasn’t 100% sure on how they worked so I had to take a couple different DMM readings with different configurations). Since my inspection is now almost over a month past due, I bit the bullet and got back to my roots. I used a razor knife to strip back the last 1/8" of wire left in the connector and carefully soldered an extension onto it. Then I reconnected it to teh factory wire and tape the SHIT out of it to make sure it cant ever break. Now I am just waiting for the computer to reset and see if the light goes off. My question is though, is it possible to completely “remove” the rear o2 sensor using a vag.com? I read somewhere that you can do it on MKiv’s but not sure if it works with mine (98 Golf mkiii). If so, does someone wanna meet up with me sometime next week and hook me up???
Thanks
It simulates a sensor swinging around a switch point… I imagine it should be somewhere around 450-500mv switch point, probably swinging from 200-800mv… wtf, why are you getting 8v!!!
again, Im not 100% im testing it right (what wire is positive vs. negative… do I put pos. on the battery and neg on the sim… or is it pos. on the sim. and neg. on the battery/chassis). SO i cant promise those readings are correct or not.
not sure if it helps at all, but its a 4 wire sensor. 2 white (heater), gray, and black. So if it is + on simulator/sensor and - on chassis, is gray or black the +?? I am good when it comes to electrical, but I dont have an idea in the world how an o2 sensor works… lol
take a set of spark plug antifoulers and drill one out with a 1/2 inch bit, put your o2 sensor in it then put the other antifouler on the end of the otherone and put back into the bung. this is the way alot of people do it if they dont run a cat and need a second o2 sensor. if you have questions pm me and ill tell you more. the idea behind it is that it pulls the sensor out of the heat more so it wont foul.
I have a cat thats not the problem. The problem is that I am not 100% sure if the rear o2 bung is still there (previous owner replaced the exhaust). IN addition, I really dont feel like jacking the car up, climbing under the car, and fighting with a seized o2 sensor. Esspecially when its only the rear o2, and the wires are easily accessible in the engine bay.
I did that and thats where I got around 8v… but I dont think that is correct b/c I am pretty sure that one is a “to” wire and one is the “from” wire which would mean they are both positive. I reconnected the o2 sensor and we’ll see what happens. If it trips another CEL, I might try this: