I’l gonna be doing the initial startup of my new motor soon.
Its recommended to run engines at 2500rpm for 10 minutes for the break-in.
is this only for flat tappet cams?
any tips on startup?
I personally use this:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Don’t worry about boost plumbing at all, you shouldn’t build any boost in start-up/neutral anyway.
Basically you start is with all sensors intact, let it idle for 20 minutes while you look for leaks…then change the oil and inspect it carefully and look for metal shavings/particles
Your rings are the only piece that needs a break in, and technically they seat within the first ten or so minutes. Babying it won’t do anything but make for a less than perfect ringseal…since there is no load pushing the rings outward so they can seal perfectly against the honed walls.
what compression is the motor? I’d use the right fuel you need for the static compression of the motor.
Flat tappet cams definitly need to break in. I’d do the warm up, change oil like dyingwish said, then before it cools down too much, run it no load at 2500. Dry revving is the toughest on engines, so this theoredically de-glases the parts faster.
i also agree, prep the motor with all sensors.
^^^ I’m unfamiliar with flat tappet cams like his, good info.
im going to break mine in on the dyno.
its a hydraulic roller, thats why i was asking, someone told me only flat tappet cams need the 2500rpm breakin.
but anyways. it’ll be about 8.5:1 CR. i have a baseline “startup” tune for the injectors. once i run it, change the fluids, then i’ll start tuning.
so with the turbo connected, i wouldnt even get equilibrium? it runs 20hg of Vacuum at idle. so revving it should bring the vac. down to almost making boost.
thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming.
It shouldn’t…for the very same reason you don’t make boost while revving in neutral…if you are then something is wrong.
To add to what Chad said about breaking in on the dyno…I agree to an extent. You definately want to have all of your leaking/assorted troubleshooting done before you get on the rollers. The tuner DOES NOT want to fix issues like that, and I also think that the motor should see some higher RPM’s before dyno’ing. I’m not saying hit redline, but I don’ think the best time to wind it out the very first time is on the rollers. Some may disagree Get it running safely (AFR-wise) and without leaks, put a hundred miles on it with some decent pulls and engine braking involved (maybe a 100 miles or so)…then strap it down and tune.
um my hydrolic roller, i started up, checked for leaks and shit, when it was all good, drove it for 45 mins. let it cooled down for a nite, next day, drove it for like 35mins, engine builder told me to do a burnout in front of his shop or he wont give me my oil. soo i did it. then got back changed oil, checked filter for shit, and it all came back okey dokey. been beating on it since
If you want to keep 87 in it thats fine, but i’d start putting 93 in it soon!
Your right, only flat tappets need broke in, rollers do not. Mostly b/c the cam is “scrapping” the tappet and also the lifter rotates around in the galley when rollers do not. So your good to go.
Lastly, idling the car is the worst thing you can do. That 20" of vacuum is sucking hard on the rings when instead you want less vacuum to help seal them. If you let that motor sit there and idle for like 20min, it would smoke the rest of its life. Definitly get it ready, go drive it or something!
ok, i usually run 105 octane in it anyhow. was just thinkin maybe 87 would help it along easier.
i won’t be dyno tuning it. i’m banking on burning up something. hopefully it’ll only be the tires. i’m holding off on DRs, cause i know i’ll snap axles with those.
i’m gonna hold off on sparying the meth too, cause that’ll just add another variable to the equation. wanna set it up for a modest 93oct 20psi street tune. then later meth and 105oct.
again thanks for the input.
That idling time is just enough time to let it warm to temp (or close to it) and be sure nothing is malfunctioning. You can’t / shouldn’t fire it up and pull out of the driveway instantly. It HAS to idle for a bit, not necessarily 20 min, I just threw an arbitrary time out there.
Ring tension (which is the ONLY factor involved in ring seating, that can change) is only 5-7 lbs/in inside the cylinder, so at a slow idle there is a considerably slower ring break-in…hence the reason to let it sit and get warm so everything else is where it should be.
After that THEN get on it, load is the only way to raise the ring tension so that they aggressively wear down the microscopic peaks on the cylinder wall in the correct way. You are right that long idling times will smooth out the peaks in the wall, but leave the valleys which will lead to poor rings seal.
Break that thing in on the dyno… when JP broke in his Supra motor, it made 1036rwhp with like .3 miles on it or something like that.
AWD dynos seem to be tough to come-by.
a couple pulls with the front shaft out wouldn’t be too bad, but i dunno about sustained runs.
:eek3: nuff said I guess
right on… i agree across teh board
Slowboy has one
Since you have a roller cam, drive it like you stole it. Either on an AWD dyno, or on the street.
If you want to be really safe, then here are a few things to consider: Too rich of a tune may cause premature ring failure, due to the washing of the oil off of the cylinder walls. I would keep from free revving it, too. You really want a load on it. If you get it into boost, try not to max it out. If you can limit your boost, I’d keep it low (5psi or less) to keep the heat down. A new motor is gonna run hot anyway, but no reason to add to it.
The 20 mins at 2500 or so rpm is mainly for flat tappet cams. They can & will fail in a short time without proper oil circulation/pressure. With the motor at higher rpms, the oil is circulating & keeping the cam/lifters oiled properly.
Sorry, I didn’t multi quote…
With the front shaft out, it may not even turn the rear wheels, since AWD. If it were 4wd, you can get away with it. I would check with other SyTy owners if it will turn the rear wheels with no load on the fronts. :dunno:
it will, but that much torque in a “2WD” S10. gets pretty scary on the street
Scary is fun.