block is gutted now and off to the machine shop to be dipped bored and honed before we put the new pistons in and get her all back assembled
i think this one might not work so well anymore:
the hole in the piston makes it rev faster
new cp pistons chilling
cute
Now me and the mad scientist gotta fix the piston rings ya’ fried.
Good luck with the assembly, what do you have planned?
How are you gonna scuff them up before dropping them in?
ur moms doing that
actually not sure exactly how im gonna break the engine in yet. Considering I might run the car on the dyno or do a bunch of really slow laps at the track before doing an oil change or something i dunno.
other than the pistons only other things are new bearings valve seals rocker arm stoppers and a metal head gasket, just a basic rebuild + repair really. I want to get her back on the road (err track) asap.
ur moms doing that
actually not sure exactly how im gonna break the engine in yet. Considering I might run the car on the dyno or do a bunch of really slow laps at the track before doing an oil change or something i dunno.
other than the pistons only other things are new bearings valve seals rocker arm stoppers and a metal head gasket, just a basic rebuild + repair really. I want to get her back on the road (err track) asap.[/quote]
I don’t think you even know my mother. 
Stock size HG?
88mm hg 1.18mm thick
with 9.0:1 compression pistons looking at about 8.8-8.9:1 compression total? something like that
hopefully will be a bit more torquy and poweful outside boost, maybe even come onto boost slightly faster
it should spool about 300 rpm lower. that’s what i found with mine. (8.8:1 - 1.2mm hg)
edit: mine wasn’t quite as bad…
:lol:
make sure you seat the rings well when you break it in
floor it to like 5000 rpm
Yea, I blew my motor too when the shim fell out. I’m hardcore. :hsugh:
Well Sasha, hopefully after the new pistons go in we won’t hear another
“325hp is too fucking low” (or somewhere along that line).
no 8 inch hole in block causing the engine mount to fall to the ground?
no care…
awsome none the less. i love seeing shit like that and then what gets done to upgrade.
good luck sashahshashashassaa
GT
Let me know when you decide to put the head back together…
Products look good…
what exactly to rocker arm stoppers do?
i picked up a set just because the engine was apart but only because one of my suppliers had them in stock for cheap.
perhaps a basic discussion of the benefits of building internals would be in place here?
Prevent valve float at high RPM characteristic of hydraulic lifters.
Valve float = boom
For people who don’t understand valve float and why it is death to a engine here is a summary.
A high-rpm engine condition in which the valve lifters lose contact with the cam lobes because the valve springs are not strong enough to overcome the momentum of the various valve train components. The onset of valve float prevents higher-rpm operation. Extended periods of valve float will damage the valve train.
When the valves fail to completely close during the compression stroke, and/or can sometimes bounce off of the valve seat as it tries to follow the profile of the cam. An engine suffering from valve float has a characteristic sound; the engine will begin to cut out, making a rumbling noise. Valve float causes loss of power and usually leads to engine damage.
I personaly would not use just stoppers since its not really a great way to solve the problem a better way would be to upgrade your valve springs to a stronger rate, this will overcome the problem and allow you to rev the engine harder without worry of the valves loosing contact with the cam.
P.S. Valve float was a very common thing on pushrod engines
thats what they theoretically do
what they physically do is they sit very close to the lifter side of the rocker so that during valve float if the rocker bounces up to try and shift it wont be able to come off the lifter, and if it cant come off the lifter then it cant fall off and cause rocker arm damage due to the geometry of the system, it wont allow it. Well… it would allow it when the engine is off but when running it would be really hard, the springs would have to be almost all the way down while the cam was off lobe and then there would have to be a turning force to turn the rocker away from the springs, probobly from vibration.
Without rocker arm stoppers at high engine speed the rocker is floating and if the springs are low the rocker can lift up on the lifter side and not land flat back on it, causing it to slide off and then you have rocker failure because the cam slams the rocker that is half sitting on the grond, the easiet thing to happen is for the rocker to break.
This is what it looks like from my motor anyways 
Awesome determination Sasha, and you are doing exactly what i would do in that situation … look at it as a way to do a bigger upgrade.
Keep us posted once its back up and running again.
Sasha if you are getting the pistons droped in by professionals, get them to make the tolerances on the ring gap such that you only have to run the engine at such and such rpm to seat the rings only. The sides of the pistons (the name escapes me) should scuff up nice after this as well.
Then take her for a few light laps around the track with varying rpms and loads. Your bottom end bearings can be done in this way as well, however as long as they are in tolerance bearings these days are quite robust. The most important part is the seating of the rings.
I’ve seen this done on race motors, I never quite understood how they knew. But the have some special break in oil and hold the engine at around 3000 rpm for about 20 minutes.
I await to see the new motor run 
Andrew.
Since you took those two paragraphs from
Here: Car Maintenance, Repairs, & How-Tos
And here: http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0303vwt_valvespring/
respectively, you should really use the qutoe feature to indicate that you really didn’t know the answer so you had to search for it on google. It will also keep you out of trouble with the plaigerism nazis.
yea i takled to ceaser from missisauga engines regarding break in procedures and i’ll be installing the pistons and trimming the rings myself, from what i understand you set the ring gap to the boost pressure and rpm you will run not the break in procedure?
I’m going to try to get my car ona dyno for a couple hours for a quick break in, from what i’ve been told that and an oil change will be good enough.
Now i just need to find out what oil to use for break in. I’ve heard some saying not to use synthetics, others say use, then there is the money issue.
Thanks for the support nick!
ive always been told to run the cheapest crappyest oil you can find for break in and then switch to synthetics,aparrently synthetics provide such great lubrication there is very little friction on the surfaces that need to be broken in
but on the other hand the tolerances are so tight on our jap scrap motors that we really dont have much of a break in time as opposed to the engines of yesteryear
so i say do what u want
personally id do the first of the two