New Pictures and Inducted into To4r.com (NO 56k)

Hey guys, here is some new pics i took this weekend and i was also honored with being a part of www.to4.com … its a pretty big deal in the supra world and only a handfull of guys are a part of it. enjoy

http://www.fototime.com/{80CB6453-97E2-408A-B659-387C837DC9AE}/picture.JPG

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one more picture

http://www.fototime.com/{DBE85767-1C33-4EE7-9782-466D77E0E152}/picture.JPG

:eek4: :eek2:

Those pictures do it justice :cool:

now wheres a damn video ! :rofl:

i have video from the fall… i think this is him
http://home.comcast.net/~black02z28/blacksupra1126.mpg

wow… that car is sick man

Oh yeah, thats a good quality video, better than what i have… but Its alittle different setup now. :slight_smile: i have a couple videos, but when i say they are shitty, they are SHITTY!

Thanks Brian :cool:

here is a video… try to right click save as, cause bandwith is shit! beware shit video!

short ass video

I seen worse videos :beer:

So what kinda tires are you gonna run at the track?

fuckin wow…

those pictures came out very well

Straight from to4r.com

JON PRATKANIS
1997 TOYOTA SUPRA TURBO
6 SPEED
BLACK/BLACK
PITTSBURGH, PA. USA
EMAIL JON
22 photos
2441 words
February 6th '05

GENERAL:
After way too much money went into the previous M3, and for only minor results, I decided my next car was going to have a lot more potential right from the get-go. I had four definite criteria. First, it had to be a basically stock MKIV. Second, it had to be black on black. Third, it had to be low miles and amazingly clean and finally it had to have the 6 speed manual transmission. Searching the web for anything that closely resembled what I was looking for, I soon learned that finding a clean title, stock-ish, low mile supra, is not an easy task. They were either salvaged title, many were rebuilt with some flashy Japanese body kit, or there were the ones that just didn’t look like the owner took care of it properly. Out of pure luck I found a 1997 Limited Edition Supra. It was black on black, had only 21,000 original miles and the photos of the car looked like they came straight out of a Toyota advertisement! The owner had taken immaculate care of the car and I knew that this would be the perfect base from which to start my project. So in September of 2003, I became the proud owner of a black 1997 Supra, straight out of Los Angeles, California.
The car came to me with a bone stock body, and the exception of a set of 18” chrome wheels, which looked better than it sounds. It also included basic BPU mods to set me on my way. A full exhaust, intake, Greddy 3 row FMIC, and boost controller were among the simple modifications done to this car. From what I was used to before, this thing was out of control! I was in love; it had amazing power and pulled like jet! Keeping up and eventually passing such bikes as Yamaha R6’s, left me in amazement! All good things must come to an end however, and I blew up my number two stock twin turbo later that fall. I was bummed out that my supra would be out of commission for awhile, but glad because the next stage in this car’s early life would be the best yet!
After talking with Larry Prebis of Sound Performance in Bloomingdale, Chicago, I decided upon a new-at-the-time SP71GT-Q single turbo kit. That January, a buddy of mine completed the install of my single turbo setup. The new setup included HKS 264 cams, HKS Ti Exhaust, Clutch, Fuel System, with 85lb injectors and a MAP ECU. The car had some issues to be rectified and, at this stage in my car career, my knowledge of troubleshooting cars is not that of some. After some trials and tribulations I found that a bolt had been dropped during the install to the timing belt gear area, causing the car to skip teeth. To make sure this didn’t happen again, I wanted to be able to monitor/adjust practically everything in the car. That is why I sold my MAP ECU and bought an AEM EMS, and in my opinion it is the best way to go. The car made 694rwhp at 25psi and was tuned by Jason Siebels of AEM. Full boost arrived around 5200rpms and the car didn’t have a problem ruining anything in its path.
With this setup I knew that I had some serious power on my hands and decided to give drag racing a try. Now for all you people that think, if you have the power you’re automatically going to run awesome times - you’re wrong! Getting awesome ETs takes a ton of time and practice, something I was keen to begin. Well with 7-10 runs on the setup, my last run ended up to be a 11.0 @ 135mph. A decent time, but considering the trap speed, should be a 10 second run. Unluckily, I wouldn’t get another try as the RPS Stage 3 clutch had cried enough inside my bell housing. The car couldn’t move and was towed home, where I pondered the next step. I was determined that the next step would be out of control and would make more power than the physics of concrete and rubber would allow!
ENGINE:
After making 694rwhp on the stock block/head with the exclusion of cams, I decided on a built engine. After pulling the motor out of my car along with the transmission, in August of 2004, it was time for me to decide who I was going to enlist for this task. As before, I put my trust in Larry and the guys at Sound Performance. If I have learned one thing from building cars, it is, if you are going to do it - do it right! And if you can’t do it right, don’t do it at all! Keeping this in mind, I decided to go with the best of the best. Arias Pistons, Carrillo H beam rods and a Ferrea valve train. With these components, tons of boost would not be a problem, and that is exactly what I wanted.
Having a strong foundation is only part of the project. My next step was to find the correct induction hardware to reach my goal of 1000+rwhp. I decided to go with a SP77HO turbo, which so far had been proven capable of 9XXrwhp on boost alone. With a holistic approach in mind, I ditched the stock intake manifold for a Virtual Works intake manifold. This manifold is the best of the best and outflows the competition. In addition to the new intake manifold, I also upgraded my intercooler. I sold the smaller but effective GReddy 3-row in favour of the massive GReddy 4-row. Although keeping the HKS 264 cams, I changed most everything else on the car. With help from Dusty at MVP Motorsports, the car was on its way to a drastic change. A GReddy Oil cooler was installed, along with GReddy oil gauges, to make sure everything is nice and cool. A Titan crank pulley and Nitrous Express single fogger wet kit were also among the long list of new parts.
Since I was looking to get more serious about drag racing, I looked to the man running the best times. Ryan Woon from Wide Open Throttle Motorsports was the guy to go to for my drivetrain needs. The clutch is a huge factor of a quick pass in any 6 speed car. The Pro version RPS twin disc Carbon-Carbon clutch with chromoly flywheel was an easy choice. But, mindful also of the driveshaft, I had WOTM build me a beefy driveshaft, so I don’t have to worry about it breaking. I also bought a WOTM driveshaft loop in order to conform to NHRA regulations.
For the tuning, I flew in Justin Nenni of Tuning Concepts, from Austin Texas. Justin is known for tuning such cars as Peter Blach’s 11XXrwhp supra, as well as many other quick cars including multiple big power vipers. I used the “motoman / flog” method of breaking in the motor. This is where you basically get the rings to bed in as quickly as possible, using cylinder pressure from about 1/2 to 3/4 load and moderate revs. In our case that involved startup, a quick check for problems, then a change of oil and onto the dyno. This was nervous process; to see if all the hard work had paid off and hoping we didn’t have any serious trouble. So we started it up and began the break in process. This lasted approx 30 minutes of revving the car at different throttle percentages and letting the engine itself slow the car down. Checked and changed the oil and this baby was ready to make some power! The car made 623rwhp at 17psi, which was almost faster than it ever was on the previous setup! The end result was 853rwhp and 667rwtq @ 32psi. The car held boost very solidly thanks to a manual boost controller and the 44mm Tial wastegate. We decided to stop at 32psi for now, for the sake of a brand new motor. The car has a ton more potential and will eventually reach my goal of 1000+rwhp.
FUEL:
While making a ton of horsepower relies on a built motor and big turbo, you also have to have the fuel supply to meet your engine’s requirements. That means you have to have the equipment to pump the fuel from the tank to the lines, big enough lines to get the fuel to the injectors and big enough injectors that duty cycle wouldn’t be too high. I decided to go with a monster in-tank setup. I bought a WOTM Triple Pump hanger, which holds the three 341 Walbro fuel pumps in place. Two of the three pumps run all the time, while the third pump turns on at anything above 7psi and 80% throttle. From the tank a -10 line was installed and splits to two -8 lines which feeds both ends of the Powerhouse Fuel Rail. The injectors are 1600cc Bosch, which may be overkill and affects the drivability of the car by a slight amount, but I will never have to worry about running out of fuel! Using -6 lines to pass through the Weldon fuel pressure regulator and back to the tank. The car will need to run on a 94/110 mix for the lowest boost level of 17psi, just to be on the safe side due to the upped compression, caused by the Arais pistons.
ELECTRONICS:
Monitoring and tuning the car is the very important. As stated above I went with the AEM EMS and had a proven tuner to tweak the car. To monitor the A/F ratio, a FJO wideband O2 sensor was installed, and wired into the AEM for constant monitoring. For a stronger spark I added an HKS DLI. As for suspension, a Tein EDFC, control unit is a pretty slick item. You can change the damping force of the coilover units from inside the car, which is always a plus. All gauges in the car are Greddy black 60mms, and include; Boost, EGT, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temp, and Oil Pressure.
A sound system was a necessity for me. It obviously doesn’t help the car to go any faster, but does allow you to enjoy the car that much more. That is why the sound system in my Supra wasn’t going to be taken lightly. I installed a Kenwood 911DVD to listen to my CD’s and view DVDs. For speakers, I used top of the line MB Quart Q series components. I found a custom carbon fiber sub box for sale out of Florida, which fits 3 10w7’s. With the angle of the subs, and the sound reflecting off the hatch, it is LOUD! JL Amps power the giant boom box. When it comes to modifying cars, some people only bother with the sound, or looks, (or both) but I had the performance to match!
INTERIOR:
Well with the car being low miles, the interior came in perfect shape! I love how the Supra interior wraps the car around you, the driver! This is one of the best features of the Supra in my opinion. The first thing to go on the inside, were the stock black leather seats. I replaced them with black/grey Sparco Torinos. They are great sport seats, with pretty good comfort, even for a 6’4” guy! I then added a little “bling” with some Sparco aluminum pedals. At one time I installed a Sparco Harness Bar, which is a cool product, works for harnesses and stiffens up the chassis at the same time. Although I’ve now removed that in preparation for the roll cage to be installed later this year. With the sound system taking up the entire hatch space, the only open place left to install the battery and nitrous was in the back seat. The Optima Yellow Top battery was placed inside a Moroso Battery Box, located directly behind the driver’s seat. The nitrous was a tricky item to place correctly. For the nitrous to flow correcting into the feed line, it is recommended that the bottle be facing the front of the car. So I bought a CNC billet Nitrous holder, and placed it on the hump in the rear seats. Turned out to look really good, and I have easy access to view/open the bottle. The glove box is currently occupied by a custom fabricated carbon fiber plate, which holds in place the Tein EDFC and also the Greddy Oil Temp/Pressure gauges.
EXTERIOR:
The exterior of the car is really important to me. I can’t stand to see Supras on which people have messed up the graceful factory lines. Toyota was so far ahead of their time with the MKIV. With that in mind, I bought a carbon fiber RMM wing. I replaced the hood with a rare carbon fiber Stout hood. I really, really like the style of the hood. The vents on this hood are functional, and the main vent releases a ton of heat. I routed the purge line for the nitrous, to be release out of the back vent, for an added touch of show! A Seibon carbon fiber front lip was added to the factory bumper. This is not such a good idea if you don’t have smooth roads, which I came to learn from experience here in PA, but nevertheless its a great looking lip. Last but not least, I acquired some 18x10 and 18x11 iForged Aeros, with 265/35/18 BFG KD TA’s up front and 315/30/18 BFG Drag Radials on the back.
THANKS:
Larry, Gary, Ivan and all the guys at www.Sound-Performance.com
Dusty at www.MVPmotorsports.com
Ryan Woon at www.WOTM.com
Curt at Elhmurst Toyota www.elmhursttoyota.com
Jarrett at www.PowerHouseRacing.com
Justin Nenni at www.tuningconcepts.com
Dana at www.VirtualWorksRacing.com
And everyone else that had a hand in the making of this car, it couldn’t have been done without you guys!

PARTS LIST:

ENGINE:
.20 over Arias Pistons
Bored, Honed, Polished Crank
Clevite Bearing
Carillio H Beam Rods
Ferrea 1mm Oversized Valves, Retainers, Locks, Locaters
Race Port/Polish Head
Upgraded Oil Pump
1/2" ARP Headstuds
ARP Mainstuds
77HO Turbo .81 A/R
Greddy 4 Row Intercooler
Virtual Works Intake Manifold
Virtual Works 4" IC Piping
HKS 264 Cams
Unorthodox Cam Gears
Titan Crank Pulley
Greddy Catch Can
(2) Tial BOV’s
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Nitrous Express Single Fogger System
12lb Nitrous Express Composite Bottle
Slow Boy Racing MBC
HKS 4" Titanium Exhaust
4" Sound Performance Downpipe/Midpipe
Greddy 16row Oil Cooler
Moroso Shut off Switch w/ Virtual Works extension
Moroso Battery Box Relocated to back seat
Fluidyne radiator
FUEL:
Powerhouse Fuel Rail
WOTM Triple Pump Hanger
1600cc Bosch Injectors
Weldon FPR
(3) Walbro Intank Pumps
Custom Braided Lines
ELECTRONICS:
AEM EMS w/ 5 Bar MAP
GM IAT Sensor
FJO Wideband o2
DRIVETRAIN:
RPS Carbon Carbon Clutch w/ Chromoly Flywheel
B/M Short Shifter
WOTM Driveshaft
WOTM Scatter Shield
WOTM Driveshaft loop
Tein Flex Coilovers
Tein EDFC
BRAKES/CHASSIS:
Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors
Hawk Brake Pads
Cusco carbon fiber rear strut bar
WHEELS/TIRES:
Street:
18x10,18x11 iForged Aeros
265/35/18 BFG KD TA’s
315/30/18 BFG Drag Radials
Track:
CCW Drag Race Package
F: 16 x 5.5 with Firestone 26 x 3.75 x 16
R: 16 x 10 with Mickey Thompson 26 x 11.5 E.T. Street
INTERIOR:
Sparco Torinos
Sparco Pedals
Sparco 5pt Harness
Sparco Shift Knob
TRD 10k RPM Tach
Greddy 60mm Boost Gauge
Greddy 60mm EGT
Greddy 60mm Fuel Pressure
Greddy 60mm Oil Pressure
Greddy 60mm Oil Tempature
Custom CF Glove Box Enclosure
Kenwood KVT-911DVD
JL Audio 1000-1 AMP
JL Audio 350-4 AMP
MB Quart Q Series Components
(2) Clarion 5" Screens
(3) JL 10W7’ w/ Custom Carbon Fiber Box
EXTERIOR:
Carbon Fiber Stout Hood
Seibon Carbon Fiber Lip
RMM Carbon Fiber Wing
6000k HIDS

ive got a set of CCW wheels with et streets and skinnies.

FRONT TIRE SIZES
Firestone 26X3.75X16 Front

REAR TIRE SIZES
Mickey Thompson 26X11.5X16 ET Street

whoo hooo looks good!!! those pics are awsome!!! really cool places for pics!!

your car is fuccking awesome.black is the best color.

Id buy that for a dollar

sweet pics,looks great& thanks for showing me the back! :wink: :smiley:

that thing is sweet. i added your pics to my screensaver-wallpaper rotation

Thanks for the compliments!

ill give you a viper and 25k for it