Hi, well my name is Alex and some of your already know me. Three month ago I bought a 93 Honda Civic DX completely stock with busted up dash and a typical honda cancer on rear quarter panels. Since I got the car 2 days before I had to start school I didn’t have much time to do anything to it yet, so I only fixed the dash, Viper 2-way alarm w/ remote start (lol car=$1200 alarm MSRP=$599, got alarm from a friend for $60), fixed drivers door, got HX wheels from Vlad but don’t want to get tires for em yet, honda cancer (I need to redo one side because it didn’t come out as good as I wanted it to. But I have a nice “wanna do” list for upcoming summer and it includes.
Tokico Illuminas shocks
H&R sport springs
Built B18B with aftermarket rods, pistons, APR bolts, all new gaskets and bearings (stock compression and reliable for the time I save up for a turbo)
New Stock bumper w/ Type-R lip
Tint
Sway bars frnt/rear
thats about it,
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Little UPDATE
<>14" HX wheels with KS Ultra GT tires 185/60-14R (went with 60 instead of 65 it screwed up the speedo but it looks nicer).
<>USDM Optional Honda Audio Console.
<>B&M short shifter.
<>Energy Suspension Manual Transmission Shifter Stabilizer Bushings.
Here are some pics.
Now I am just going to start saving up money for a suspension.
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OK well, me my dad and Oleg figured this one out. Prong #5 on the Main relay was only getting 1.5V I checked the connectivity of bunch of wires and found that something was wrong with fuse panel and 12V from ignition were not sent to Prong #5 or ELD relay in the under the hood fuse box. So I just jumped a wire from the fuse at cabin fuse box to the main relay and the car is running.
Here are some pics of what we had to go through. All figuring out and fixing part was done today from 12am-6pm that included removing the whole dash and testing bunch of wires.
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Well, took Memorial day off of work and spent 8 hours replacing the clutch, pressure plate. Thanks to Oleg for all the help, definitely wouldn’t be able to do it alone. Here are some pics. Pressure plate surface was scratched because clutch pack surface was very low in some points and pins started to grind on the pressure plate.
Not much
T3/T4 w/ external wastegate, FMIC, Crome or Hondata tuning, WBO2, I just want 250 to 300whp nothing too crazy, just want a nice and kinda reliable car. I might build the engine and buy a 94-95 integra and swap it onto that, then use the integra engine for a Civic swap and sell my civic. But we’ll c summer is long way away
Team Teal 3? :lol just kidding… if your shooting for 250-300 whp, instead of putting all that money into a b18…why not throw a K20a, K20a2, or K20z1 in there with some bolt-ons and a tune and youll be at that…especially in a hatch, that thing will rip!
Little UPDATE
<>14" HX wheels with KS Ultra GT tires 185/60-14R (went with 60 instead of 65 it screwed up the speedo but it looks nicer).
<>USDM Optional Honda Audio Console.
<>B&M short shifter.
<>Energy Suspension Manual Transmission Shifter Stabilizer Bushings.
Here are some pics.
are you set on getting tokico shocks? I know they have a great warranty, but from experience, I like Koni yellows a lot better. Also, I can help you out when you’re going to do a wire tuck if you want. My friend and I are starting to do custom fuel lines, brake lines, and tucks.
Except for B18B swap itself I am trying to do this on my own, I think its more fun that way.
I am debating between Illumina and Koni Yellows, it will really depend on how much money I have when I decide to buy all of the suspension. + I need sways but there is no way to mount them without integra LCA.
There is little price difference between the koni yellows and tokico illuminas. I agree with Code Blue. If you need ITR LCAs or whatever first, then pick them up first.
