youre joking, right?
as far as i know the truck wasnt hit .
thats what I thought. Atleast the carfax was clean anyway.
i woulda told ya anyway when ya bought it dude . larry dont buy shit if its been hit
well you had me there for a second though fucker.
lol
Im just pissed because it doesnt work and thats all thats on my mind right now.
Seems like most of my driving involves left turns too.
take a deep breath jellies, besides it your birthday, shouldn’t be the only thing on your mind
Because Racecar?
keep that bullshit out of this thread. This is a serious matter.
:lol
If it helps my expedition did the same thing last year and it was selector after replacing the column switch it was working fine
was that expensive?
So I looked online and the switch unit is atleast $117. Id hate to buy that and not have it fix the issue.
Then theres the labor of putting it in since I dont have the time or desire to rip the steering column apart.
Bring it to someone that knows how to use a voltmeter and go from there. One of the wires should have continuity with ground and the other wire should read 12V, 0V, 12V, etc, switching at the rate of the blinker. This is very, very easy troubleshooting for someone that knows how to use a voltmeter.
I didnt get a chance to take it anywhere today because I was at work.
When I checked it out last night I was seeing a bunch of weird numbers like millivolts and negative volts.
How the fuck would it show up negative?
I know I had the meter set right because I checked the battery voltage and it was 12.4 volts.
It’d show up negative if you had the meter hooked up backwards (pos to neg). Even so, it’d still work, just show the “-” symbol in front of the voltage. Do this, if you can follow me…
Pull bulb
Place meter on resistance check (horseshoe symbol, lol)
Place one meter lead on the negative side of the battery
Place other lead on one of the bulb terminals. One of them should read a low resistance (like maybe 2 ohms or less).
Assuming that checks good, leave the meter lead on the battery negative, hook the other lead to the bulb terminal that was NOT the ground, flip the blinker on, and check for 12V, 0V, 12V,etc…
Make sense?
Oh, I forgot, Happy Birthday.
It wasnt backwards and I had the negative lead on the battery.
Yeah, and? Did one of the wires have continuity with the negative terminal on the battery?