I was thinking of doing a Turbo 3500 660 hybrid. But, nothing beats the V8 rumble.
As far as tires go, I’m thinking of going with BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW’s. 295/35/18 in the rear and 255/40/18 in the front. Anyone have any input on these tires?
There nice tires, but they are big $$$
kdw’s suck ass all they do is make a ton of noise there are so many other tires that grip way better
i just took them off my car they still had half tread i just couldn’t deal with the sound of them any more
Joel, I sent you a PM.
to find matching tires in those sizes noah there isn’t a giant selection
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/CompareTireResults.jsp?search=true&y=11&frontRatio=40&startIndex=0&rearWidth=295%2F&x=21&pagelen=20&pagemark=1&pagenum=1&rearDiameter=18&filterGoWhere=CTR&frontWidth=255%2F&skipOver=true&skipOver=true&frontDiameter=18&rearRatio=35&RunFlat=All&startIndex=0&performance=EP&performance=MP&performance=UHP&x=16&y=10
those are all the ones tire rack
those tires i hear are noisy and the price aint bad
i went with bridgestone potenzas and they are nice! hook well and are quiet…too quiet
kinda pricey but worth it i think.
another good tire i hear about is Nitto Invo’s. they have your sizes and are about same price as KDW’s but much better tire from what i read
I looked at the Invo’s, but they look so weird.
look weird but they work. somewhat silent tread pattern that grips in dry and wet
Stopped by NTB and talked to Joel and his one Co-Worker Nick and they’ve convinced me if for nothing else but cheaper tires to go with 245/45/18’s in the front and 275/40/18’s in the rear. Ordered a set of Cooper Zeon 2XS’s that I got at an absolute killer deal on. Wheels will be here tomorrow, I’ll get a chance to finally mock them up and see if I’m going to need any spacers or not. I shouldn’t in the rear, but up front it’s looking like a 1.2" or 1.5" spacer.
Got the new wheels today. Haven’t had time to pull the fronts off my car now and see what kind of spacer I’m going to need, but it’s looking like I’m going to need one in the rear, the wheel is awfully close to the LCA. ~1 inch. Pics!
So if I’m going to need slip on spacers in the rear, I’m going to need to upgrade the studs. To do that, I need to pull the axles, right? So much for this part of the project being done before I start school.
To do that, I need to pull the axles, right? So much for this part of the project being done before I start school.
do you really need a spacer for those wheels and 4th gen rear? i wouldnt have thought that… if you do need a spacer i would think it woudl be a small one
either way new arp studs are nice to have for 12 bucks a set. you dont need to pull the axles.
just hammer the old studs out and use a old nut/thick quality washers to pull the new ones in. its easy to do just takes some time and force 
there is a hole in the back of the axle/brake flange on the rear that allows you to punch out the old studs and insert a new one. you’ll see it and you’ll get it done
thats bitchin Noah.
those wheels will look great. Waaayyy better that the 1988 aluminum modulars 
Okay, I’m going to have to call upon the help of all of you. I took off the rotors and calipers and was trying to find the spot that’s used to tap out the studs, but I can’t find it. I see a spot that looks almost like it should be it, however there’s no hole. There’s a circle cut into the dust shield, but the backing plate just has a sort of circle beveled in it.
Anyways.
Orr, I’m going camping this weekend, but think I’d be able to bring one front and rear wheel and meet up with you and we can test fit them on your car (Being that you already have the 4th gen rear in the car, and spacers to play with for front and back.) and get all the measurements straight?
That’d be awesome.
hell yeah, bring it over sometime and we’ll go at it 
i got my slip on .625" spacers and a few 5/16 spacers
u will need alteast a inch spacer i do beleave! there is a whole to remove the rear studs,u must take the bolts out of the backing plates!
what sucks about a 1 inch spacer is its hard to run. up to .625" you can get away with slip ons with ARP studs and have the spacer made with a wheel centric lip to match wheel centerbore. takes alot of stress off the studs
with standard stud length, a 1 inch spacer cant be bolt on without having excess material overhanging the mounting face of the spacer so those bolts will hit the wheel face when mounting. minimum spacer i think is 1.25 that can be bolted on. that should work with those wheels/4th gen rear but if we mount it up on my car we’ll know for sure. 1.25 may push the tire out to the fender lip and risk bottoming out. may have to roll the lip. I have to do that with mine and i’m tucked in pretty good. still touches sometimes only on hard cornering tho
I stopped by Justin’s (Orr89rocz) house to test fit my new wheels on his car so I know what kind of spacers I’m going to need. Turns out I’m not going to need anything in the rear. I’ll probably have to roll the shit out of my fender lips, but other than that, it fits great. Up front I’m going to need a 1.7" spacer. With a 1.7", fully turned I am about a quarter of an inch from the rear of the fender well, but Justin’s car is lowered, so it might be different on mine. But other than that, should work good.
By the way. These wheels look absolutely bitchin’ on his car. If I end up with these stolen and Competition gray C6’s laying next to my car, I’ll know why.
nice!