im running 7/5 springs on my d2s which i feel are too soft so im running full dampening. i was thinking of running an 8/6 spring with less dampening… but some people have said i wont even notice the difference between 7/5 and 8/6… or should i just go up to 9/7, i like the stiff ride but is it even worth it for street to go to 9/7 since your probobally loosing performance if you take a bumpy corner and the car bounces all over the place so i guess the real question is 7/5 to 8/6 worth the 200 bucks.
Get swaybars and improve other suspension parts on your car if you want
further noticable difference. Bushings or pillow-ball control arms. Take your pick.
i have hicas sway bars whitelines are a waist of my money and i have bushings too
Bushings as in on your control arms? Or or the metal sleeves on your subframe?
I know you have collars; I didn’t know you got bushings all around.
And FYI, Whitelines aren’t a waste of money. :nono:
I wanna race some SRs at Shannonville to see how I compare.
Beefier sway bars, solid subframe bushings and strut bars will make your car skitter and hop more than without.
I run 7/5 coilovers, and when I was in Pavel’s car with his 9/7 D2s I couldn’t tell a difference just by riding in it… I’m sure you could tell a difference, but you’d have to drive them side by side.
sways are a waist of money :lol:
Dude when you pair sways with good suspension be it springs and shocks or coils. Your car will have almost no role. Sways are the best investment for reducing role.
Scrap getting stiffer springs. Lower the car like 2.5 inches if you haven’t already with the D2’s and get sways. And like Gonad said, bushings are a good investment as well. Cause those old bushings are probably cracked and seen better days.
this is how I think is should be done in order (a little off topic):
tires
bracing
coils/springs and shocks
upgrading brakes
sways
adjustable multilink and bushings
engine work
Andrew.
EDIT: and could you explain to me how 7/5 is not stiff enough. Do you track your car alot and notice this. 7/5 is more off a stager for drifting purposes. So I assume you drift, unless you are some hardcore drifter I don’t see how you can notice this. I run 4kg/mm front and 3.8 rear and I can say I need a little stiffer on the track for drift and staggered more since my car likes to understeer.
7/5 is stiff enough for grip…
9/7 is perfect for drift and thats what I run… I also run whiteline sways
on full stiff both front and rear. My car doesn’t sway at all. Its fun.
The first mod i ever did to my 240 was swaybars. I already had HICAS
at the time. And going from stock to whiteline swaybars made a huge difference in handling even without any other suspension mods. It makes
the whole car feel more solid, and every turn feels tighter…
the white lines are literly like 1-2 mm larger than hicas bars, and the whiteline quality is junk if i was going to get swaybard i would get cusco sways or tanabe. i already have cusco strut braces, metal subframe spacers, and some other stuff.
if you search on fa they show the effectiveness in a % of the whiteline sways over stock hicas bars and the difference is so small my money would be spend better in other places such as nawz and vtec and buddy club stage 5 cams
%effectiveness ?
please elaborate. Effectiveness of what.
and the quality is junk :? On what grounds are you making this assumption, from some guy in the states you have never met. I’ve seen the sways, ridden in a car with them more then once and I can honestly say the role is less then in a hicas car with stock sways and same suspension mods. And the quality is really nice.
Only step up that I can see is largus sways. but those are 300US a piece.
Andrew.
I didn’t buy Whitelines because I saw their end-links snap on a few occasions IIRC.
I didn’t buy Sustech’s because of the several reports of poor fitment.
I didn’t buy the Cusco & Tanabe’s because of their pricing partially, but mostly that I couldn’t find a bushing/end-link set on it’s own to go with them, there was no “complete package”.
So I figured i’d forget about sways for the time being… :roll:
That said though, I have heard good reports from ALL of them in reducing body roll by A LOT…which is good…
SPL parts makes endlinks you can use with them
ive seen pictures of rusting whitelines, snapped endlinks, corroded fittings, and cracked bushings. nothing i want on my car.
if you search whiteline on FA you will see the % stiffer over stock hicas and stock non hicas. and its minimal over hicas and large over non hicas.
You know what? Then stop buying Whiteline, Megan, D2, parts.
Stick to your high priced Tein, Tanabe, Sustec, etc. etc. etc
Because obviously dollar value speaks in quality and effectiveness. :roll:
The only thing that snapped on my swaybars are the bolts (I’ve posted
pics before of this). Due to overthgitening and because they are garbage.
You obsiouly can’t judge something from text. Sure you can take
someone’s advice, but you can’t jump to your conclusion on someone’s
words alone.
Now if you said that you had tried both bars on your cars, then sure
different story.
Another option is Suspension Techniques if you want cheaper alternative
to Whitelines.
Honestly do what you want; if you feel stiffer springs is going to give you
what you want, then go for it.
I’ve given you my opinion and others have agreed on the same.
Obviously these people are speaking from first hand experience.
Hmmm…couldn’t find much on SPL parts/end-links…but I found some sway measurements in case anyone is interested:
horsepowerfreaks.com (US $)
CUSCO
Front 28mm - $280.32
Rear 18mm - $213.04
TANABE
Front 30.4mm - $179.40 (sale)
Rear 22mm - $183.89 (sale)
i had 8/7 springrates
and i changed to 8/6 this winter
i feel a difference.
finally someone who replied to my question
the topic is not what sway bars do what, it is what springs do what
http://www.splparts.com/Parts/S13/Suspension/Stabilizers/default.asp here are the SPL endlinks just scroll down a bit Stabilizer endlinks
they also look 100x better than whiteline.
i was thinking about trying to make sway bars…
i can already make the endlinks no problem, i use them on my car already.
what i heard though was that sway bars need to be treated in some way (tempered?)…
confirmation on that?
must they be bent or is cutting and welding a possibilty
They have to go through a special heat treating process. We (my work) has customers that would probably do the treating for you, but I think it would be a huge undertaking (the whole project), but with the right research, Bing, you could do anything!!
They super heat the steel and then quench it, essentially making it into spring steel.
Theo
What are you new?
Take those sway bars off for a day and tell me they don’t do anything…
Have you compated the HICAS ones to the whiteline ones?
Hmmm Thin walled hollow steel vs. sold steel?
Mush 10 year old rubber bushings vs. new urathane ones?
Come on…