Official: SR vs. KA vs. CA vs. RB vs. VQ vs. LSx


man, i dont like alphabet soup, what is pw3ns?

BTW I have no issues with KA-t’s, All of my Ka’s were SOHC and on the brink of extinction so thats why I went SR-it was basically cheaper for me to do it that way since I cannot afford a rebuilt and a larger turbo right away. I have this video i downloaded however the hosting site is not up (it was this video if anyone has seen it really made me wish I had a Ka–obviously these Ka’s were far from stock–I will try and get it hosted on like or something so those of you who havent seen it can, it is really great video…for a bunch of Ka’s, haaa, just playin :lol:

so yeah WTF does PW3NS


what the fvck does WTF mean?


I was wondering how long this was going to last.

Looks like the Lockzors cometh…



what the fvck does WTF mean?[/quote]

exactly what the first three words of your response said, is what it means. :smiley:

I found the videos of the Ka-T I was talking about earlier really makes you want a Ka-T, they are fast and sound very pissed, its like music


iwas at the scca runoffs and saw ka24-e’s making nearly 300 whp and soem well over.

therefore NA ka24-e is better than all.



Yea I’m a fan of high compression… its cheap and easy (usually) they just dont last

My experince is more so with Honda engines but just doing the head and jumping up to 94 is a pretty good mod for some what cheap (how long the motor lasts is a different story)


my rb cost me 1500 bucks 10000kms
took me 8 hours to get it in and running
parts are easy to get
and my rb is easier on gas then my neon lol
i also been in sr and alot of ka
they all have there plus and - but its all about what ya got to spend and what ya want i guess


You Got Specs on these N/A Ka’s making 300whp?

Top Reccord I’ve seen for an all motor KA is 248whp.


29lbs of weight savings + infinitely better weight distribution + awesome NA power. Boo-Yah!


You Got Specs on these N/A Ka’s making 300whp?

Top Reccord I’ve seen for an all motor KA is 248whp.[/quote]

no but i saw dyno charts they were displaying first hand… and looking at the fab work on that engine… and hearing it… it was rather obvious they were full race motors… most teams using the engines had what was in teh car and a skid with like 3 extras waiting for the rest of the week… many were swapping engines after each qualifying session so that no one motor was over worked…




Obviously this ain’t feasable for the average joe who’s a high school kid
with enough budget to do a basic SR swap or slap a KA-T turbo on.


I’m a wierd guy. I love cars but rarely with the engines that they come with.
I’m not held to the brand. If I was to pick a 4 cylinder for the 240 it’d be a 4g63. If I had to stick with Nissan…hmmmm, I’d like an FJ20et. I like the design.

If I was to put a 6 in it’d be a 1jz over an RB25det anyday. As it was I almost bought a 7mgte to put in a S13 till we figured that the VG was cheaper. :roll: Being poor sucks. :cry:



I’m sorry, could you not speak in engine codes?


The 4G63 is the Evo and DSM turbo engine, FJ20ET is an old Nissan engine, I believe on previous S series cars. 1JZGTE and 7MGTE are Supra engines.
And nobody read/cared to comment on the VQ swap I posted, buncha weenies :stuck_out_tongue:


Honestly, for 300-350rwhp SR is best

And that is the range most people fall under. Most peoples goal is around 300rwhp.

550cc Injectors
GT2871 (360rwhp) or GT28RS (335rwhp)

those are the only things you need on top of a regular SR (walbro, fmic, ehaust included in regular SR) to make a consistent reliable beat it to fuck every god damn day SR. KA’s will bend rods, CAs I don’t know but everything i’ve seen so far has shown CA’s cap right around 300whp before work needs to be done. RB’s produce way more power for way more money than anyone wants to put into a 240, and VQ/VG just scares the hell out of most people, and would be similar to the RB in that it would be expensive and too powerful for most.

So honestly about 8000 for a properly done 330-350whp car. The question is why doesn’t anyone do it? Its so popular in the states. These guys make the power all day long!

We’re talking 120mph traps on this setup easy. My car did 118 and it only has 326rwhp and i suck at drag racing. Plus S14s are heavier and less aerodynamic than S13s!

For the last time, in terms of money while keeping reliability at a maximum:

250-350rwhp SR
350rwhp-450rwhp SR=KA
450rwhp-550rwhp SR=KA=RB
600rwhp+ RB

I have no problem arguing this point based on actual experiance rather than theory. Never “assume” things will just work out as planned. They never do, and it always costs thousands more. You need to consider this in your argument for why KA-Ts are better. They are awesome, but they ARE NOT CHEAP. Add that to the fact that ripping apart any motor and changing internals is a huge risk to that engine - now it is not nissan sealed anymore, and unless your mechanic is as good or better than nissan, life and reliability will go down.


I agree with 90% of what you’re saying, but the rb part.

the rb 25/26 yes, very exspensive. The 20’s not so much. They can be obtained for usually the same amount or less than a sr. And to hit 300 to the wheel’s or crank depending on the type of tuning can be acheived for under 2g’s

My exspenses sofar:
t3 from vg30(direct bolt on) $300 rebuilt.
GTR 444 Injectors and resistor pack $300
Sr downpipe(flanger needs to be rotated 10 degrees) $100
3" turbo extension $100
Chipped ECU (for z32 maf, gtr injectors, 94 gas bla bla) $200, Additional $100 in car tune

total $1000

Things i still need
Exhuast (custom built) $350
FMIC (custom built) $400
z32 maf $250

total 1000$

i’d like to see a sr for 2g’s come close to 300hp. I haven’t dyno’d, well becasue frankly i’m missing a few things and haven’t installed anything yet, BUT this is usually allong the lines of a budget build up of most rb20’s and 90% of the people i’ve talked to have hit 3xxrwhp. I’ll be happy making 300 at the crank. 10hp/lbs of car!

so dollar per dollar, i’d put sr and rb20 in the same feild. WHICH makes it useless in a 240 becasue of the additional costs involved into swapping.


You’re right…that is a pretty budget build.

The only thing about the RB series of motors that could stand some improvement is the level of aftermarket support. I’m not saying stuff can’t be found but in my opinion that is what makes an SR so fun right now.

It’s like a b-series honda motor…you can find any thing you want in almost any price range (with the exception of a good mid-range exhaust manifold)


there’s a tonn of aftermarket support. This is what i never get, when people say support, what do they mean?

do they mean i can’t go out and get a 1-2mm head gasket? injectors? turbo? manifold? I think you mean the lack of alternitives, OR for the GENERAL s13 owner, cheap alternitives. Yes the rb stuff/ca stuff for the most part brand name, and i guess that does suck, but it’s not the end of the world having to buy decent stuff that isn’t going to tend to break.

the only things i’d say are hard to get and NOT stocked in canada or in the states are engine componates, like alternator, water pump etc.

but then again sr stuff like that is a pain to get too.

I can have a timing belt, cams, greddy intake, whatever 90% of the time jsut as fast as a guiy with a sr. It’s just the lack of the dirt cheap alternitives that really differenciates the rb20 from the sr20. The extra 2 slugs and the cast iron block help too :stuck_out_tongue:


10hp/lbs of car? Are you making 30,000hp?


don’t be a smart ass.

you know it was a type-o.

but if being childish is your thing, go ahead.

i’m glad the only useful thing you could add to the topic was your wise ass remark.

you got me with that. ouch! and may i add ZING!