If it’s not fiberglass i’d just blast it with some primer and paint and have at it then.
That said it looks like it’s had a pretty rough life so buy it knowing something could go at any time.
I’m not going to quote the above, you CAN visually inspect the impeller. Basically you want to look for any pitting/dings/bends/etc… It should look smooth and the edges should look sharp. Any little knick or bend can affect performance. If the damage on the hull is not from being beached, then it may be in good shape.
Good thread, I may be picking up a personal watercraft myself very shortly…
See this. Typically you can visually inspect the impeller. You can always hook it up to a water hose as well, however this will not tell you if the impeller is good or bad, only if you have leaks or other problems with the engine that may not be apparent by a visual inspection. After purchasing one of these in the past and looking at a few others… I don’t think I would ever buy a PWC unless I had it in the water for a true test.
From what I am reading, these hulls are painted, not gelcoated. However, getting polyurethane to stick would be tricky at best. I think the advice that I gave with the Epoxy Sealer is sound advice. The advice that I saw is that Poly won’t adhere to it well, but Epoxy will (this stuff will adhere to more-or-less anything, it’s insane). You can follow that up with Brightside polyurethane paint over the Epoxy Primer, http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64&engine=adwords&keyword=brightside_paint&gclid=CNS1z5Hl9r0CFRQV7AodRz4A2g . I’ve used that stuff on multiple boat hulls before and it comes out GREAT. Also comes in a variety of colors.
In the end, you’ll be into it for a couple hundred, but the repair should look great.
@boardjnky4 yeah the hull is SMC and I’ve read to do it properly you need something like this: http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=16
The paint is urethane.
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Here’s another question for you guys; does NYS require a notarized bill of sale for a watercraft?
That’s a resin, not a paint. That’s not going to be your final finishing coat. That is intended for re-inforcing, adding strength and filling cracks. Think of that as the body filler/“bondo” of this repair. After that, you will still want to prime and paint the surface. That’s where the Epoxy Sealer and Poly paint come in.
Ah, gotcha. Your link said it included a resin as well though, maybe I just read it wrong.
:tup:
Bump for this. NYS DMV doesn’t mention it, the ski is in Ohio. Ohio does require a notary.
I’m 99% sure NY doesn’t require a notarized bill of sale for anything. I don’t remember having one for either of the two boats I’ve registered. First one was just a hand written note “I sold this boat for $X on such and such date”.
I think it’s just like with cars, you must follow the laws of the state where the title is held.
I’d pass on it.
There isnt a cheap shitty PWC for sale closer than 200 miles away?
Plenty. But I only want a B1 Waveblaster.
Waiting for @boardjnky4 to comment on the impeller. I’ve found new stock ones for $100.
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Click HERE for a quick start up video. Yes, I know it’s bad to run them for long outside of water and it wasn’t. I just asked him to send me a quick proof of life.
I dont know much about them, but what is the appeal of this B1 waveblaster?
It’s as close to a stand up as you can get, without it being a stand up. They were only made 4 years here in the US and it’s a very popular ski to mod and race. They’re not fast stock but very nimble… and hard to get back on when you fall off, lol.
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… This won’t be me, lol.
I’ve ridden a B1, very fun ski.
If this doesn’t go through try to find a 95-96 SeaDoo 600 XP, my favorite of all time. Easy to mod and a rocket on the water, very light to jump as well.
Ok now you threw me for a loop. Lol Are you actually looking for one to do tricks with then vs joy ride?