So the mustang has had this code for like 3 months. It runs fine, it’s just an annoying emissions bullshit code. I replaced the sensor that triggered it last time but it did not fix it this time. Anyone have any experience with it?
its probably the stupid purge valve solenoid or one of the lines that goes to the charcoal canister might have a small leak. i hate evap problems
My Ford runs better with the CEL on. I’ve made peace with it.
Yea it doesn’t bother me I just don’t wanna get a stupid inspection ticket if I can help it.
Yea…I replaced the purge flow sensor because I had the code about a year ago and it fixed it. Not this time though…
looks like this
get a smoke test
This is from a mustang site > Ford P1443
This is the 3rd most common DTC. This code is described as “incorrect evaporative system purge control valve flow.” Ford’s purge flow sensor has been implicated as the source of the problem.
I hope that helps
found some more on it.
Ford On Board Diagnostics II, (OBD II) code P1443 means that the evaporative emissions charcoal canister purge sensor did not detect any flow when the canister should have been purging into the engine intake system. The purging, controlled by the computer,takes place when certain conditions are met, such as engine speed and temperature.What the computer operates to effect this purging is a 12 volt solenoid valve, solenoid means it has a moving piston in it which covers/uncovers ports in the valve so that flow does/does not take place. The “gunk” coming out of the charcoal canister will sometimes cause this piston to stick, resulting in purging not taking place when it should, the sensor in the purge hose detects this and sets a fault/trouble code and also turns on the “Check Engine” light. The electrical windings in these valves seldom fail, but anything is possible. To locate and check this valve, first find the charcoal canister, it will be a round or rectangular black plastic “box” with several different size hoses attached to it. If in doubt that you’ve found it, look at the bottom, there will be a plastic foam filter there—make sure it is not plugged up—. Once you’ve located the canister, start following the hoses attached to it. One will go towards the engine, follow that one along until you find the control valve that it attaches to, that’s the valve that’s not operating. Several things you can do now, just buy a new one and hope it is not the wiring or computer that’s at fault. If you want to check it and the wiring, first, with key off, disconnect the two wire connector from it. Use a 12 volt test lamp, turn the key to “run” and check for current at both wires in the connector, one sould have current. Next, connect the test lamp between the two wires in the connector, start the engine and let it warm up, then run the engine up to around 1500 RPM or so, the test light should come on, if it doesn’t, then it is the wire that was “cold” when you checked for power at the connector. or the computer. If the light comes on, then it is the valve. Remove it from the vehicle and clean it with an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner,use the “straw” that comes with the can and spray the cleaner into both hose nipples on the valve, alternatly spraying and shaking the valve. When you no longer get brown “gunk” coming out of the valve, reinstall it in the vehicle, but leave, if possible, the hose from the cannister disconnected. Start the car and let it warm up, (if need be), now raise the RPMs to 1500 or so. valve should now open and a vacuum should be present at the open nipple. If so, the problem is cured. On some OBD II equipped vehicles, repairing some problems will cause the computer to turn off the check engine light if the fault is no longer detected, in this case the vehicle requires that the car be interfaced with a scan tool and the memory reset throw the scan tool
Haha thanks, I have read all there is to read on it. I actually have that exact link with the story bookmarked. Was just trying to see if anyone had any first hand experience. Thanks for your help though ;D.
ya really need a smoke test done on it see whats up by someone who knows whats up…and guess what we have one at the shop ;D
oh yeah and ya do know that a evap monitor wont run if the tank is above 3/4 or bellow 1/4 tank right ;D and you are allowed 2 monitors not run
I just filled the tank and cleared the code. The code came back though and I am still above 3/4.
ya prolly got a fucked wire or bad canister wich i doubt ya need to get it flow tested or ya will pull your hair out guessin and get nowhere
edited for us people who cant read without FUCKING PUNCTUATION!
:nana
go brush yo teef seein as ya got time to fuck wit my punctuation
hookt on ebonikz be werkin fo u G fo sho
hmmmm
:lol