320 wet will easily cut through the old peeling clear.
I just want to paint the car, not trying to go to bare metal. But I will fix whatever dents or dings. If I sanded with 320 will I be able to use filler over it?
also, when do I use a sealer? The guy who previously owned the car started doing body work each fender at a time, so I don’t know if I should sand all his shit down and seal it for it doesn’t give me issues?
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The guy did put filler on a couple areas on the door, he did a terrible job he put it on kinda thick, so I think I would need 80 for that, but I also had the car outside in the weather since I owned it in its current condition, so I think the filler might need to be stripped off? Does it go bad if it gets wet?
The car is garaged now since we closed on our house, but I just want to make sure what I can do.
Filler exposed to the weather = bad! IMO, I’d remove it then go from there, especially if it’s thick like you’re saying.
this. moisture in body filler will only ruin anything you cover it with once the sun heats it and it shrinks up. 320 will be aggressive enough to get the flaking clear off and the surface flat yet gentle enough that 3 passes won’t put you to bear metal. if you have high body filler, sure 80grit is useful, but ONLY use that heavy of a grit on high filler and work your way up in grit count towards 400 to paint.
I completely disagree. You need to dry sand to cut through it. Wet sanding is used to preserve the coating while still abrading any high spots/peaks. Secondly, 320 will never remove the amount of clear he needs without first getting clogged to shit and secondly giving him tennis elbow.
I know you mean well and I am not trying to sound like a dick. You have experience one way…I have it another way. I’m sure choko would tell us we are both assholes. LOL.
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You have more than enough to get started.
PRACTICE-PRACTICE-PRACTICE! Or, just shoot your car…and don’t get pissed with “bad” results.
I want it to look pretty good lol, and I want to take every step in the correct fashion. I was very happy yesterday when I finally finished running 230 to my air compressor(80gallon used), when I bought it there was no way to know if it even worked since the guy had it stored in a storage facility. Now I need to run my piping for 25ft with drip legs, then to my filter dryer and regulator. Then I need to get a decent rubber air line so it won’t be too stiff and fighting me while painting.
So I have a bit of time before I even touch the car, but I’m really motivated to get the air lines run quickly. I joined a automotive body forum so I have been reading and getting tips, but I’m trying to learn as much as possible, and I want to do it right.
I don’t except or am I trying to make it a show quality job, but I want it to look nice!
I really appreciate everyones input in trying to help me, and I will continue to ask questions, hopefully not dumb ones lol
I’m curious by the time some of you factor in compressors/materials/time and all the other gear if its even worth it.
I usually wetsand because having the element of water makes the paper resistant to said clogging. I’m just saying I would use an airboard wet with 320 to buzz through the clear especially if I want to avoid spraying the entire car in surfacer/high-build and have to block the entire thing a few more times. If you can get the existing finish flat and scuffed without having deep scratches or bare metal spots from heavy grit paper, you can save yourself a lot of time…this of course is only valid if once you get the clear sanded away the rest of the paint is in fair shape underneath to adhere.
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if you literally have no equipment or supplies and only plan to do it once, it’s NOT worth it. it’s literally cheaper to have someone do it that do buy quality tools, supplies, and paint materials to have a newbie result.
I guess I will find out! lol
I do plan to fix some paint on my truck since it has some rust 
If I like the process and how it turns out then I will do another car and so on.
so far my costs are.
Air compressor used 80gallon $420
Devilbiss Starting line kit $160
$50 to wire 230v to the compressor
I probably have another $50-100 for air lines.
I still need material and some tools.
Sand the clear with 180 on a DA. For the parts that need body filler sand it with 80 down to bare metal and feather edge the paint with 180 so there is no bump where It goes from metal to paint. Then prime it and block it down with 320 dry or 400 wet. And the harbor freight hvlp gun will spray great. just make sure to wipe off the cap where it screws on to the cup after every refill or it will drip paint when you are trying to spray the hood, trunk lid and roof. You only get about 1 or 2 paint jobs out of the gun before it sprays crappy but who cares they only cost $10 -$20, you just throw it away. Its not the gun that makes a great paint job ,It knowing how to use it.
filler- after I sand it down to bare metal I prime it and then apply the filler or do I sand the primer a little as well and then apply filler?
you used to have a GN right? This is for my T-type, too bad its not a WH1
It’s not. It is more of the “I want to do it” factor unless you plan on making some side $$$. It took me a number of wreck jobs to perfect my technique…and you can easily spend double your initial budget on the first car you ever paint no matter how big/small the job is. I will say that when I was in my “prime” it goes like clockwork.
I can’t tell you how exactly how many CARS I’ve painted…maybe 35(?). Collision jobs were definitely higher. Even with that under my belt I know when I get to painting in my current garage I will need to get some carbon of the old valves.
But, I think it is awesome that more and more enthusiasts are doing it!
Ah…airboard. Now we are speaking the same language. I find myself working harder not smarter when it comes to autobody work. At least in the prepping stages. I typically hand sand every square inch of an existing finish. It is a total ‘waste’ of time for some but I tell you what…it turns out flawless to know exactly where to pay attention.
Wahoo, just curious. Did you price out ALL your materials? If you’re expecting to walk out of a paint supply store with less than $1,000 invested you may want to start looking into it. Or, at least give yourself and idea of where that ceiling is. Will it cost you a $1,000?..depends on what will satisfy you.
I’ll 2nd the materials thing Luke_L said… just the primer job I just sprayed cost me easily $300 in disposables/materials.
The reason I’m getting all my stuff is because the Firebird is just the first in a long line of projects I’m planning on/expecting to do.
I don’t expect it to be cheap, but I expect it probably to be cheaper than paying someone. I always thought it would be a fun thing to do, that’s why I want to do it! Always loved muscle cars and wanted to restore one.
Tools to me aren’t part of the cost. They are good for more than just painting. So maybe I have no $$ into it yet 
Yes I had a GN and I have owned a T Type I have a 72 Dart now.
The process if it needs body filler should go sand it to bare metal, apply body filler over the bare metal , sand the filler with 80 then 180 grit , prime and then block sand it with 320 /400 then reprime and block again. 320 /400 areas that you are painting that didn’t need body work. Mask the car off wash it down with wax and grease remover then tack rag the areas and spray the paint. If spraying base clear tack rag inbetween the base coats, do not tack inbetween the clear coats. Now I must warn you my Gn had some dealer applied paint sealant on it that caused the paint to fish eye ,it was hell trying to get it not to fish eye. Even with fish eye elimanator in the paint it still wanted to fish eye. So I had to apply very light coats to get it to not happen. Not all the cars got this sealant and I never had this happen on any other car but from what I was told some 80s cars had it.
Whats the purpose of a sealer?
I don’t know if I know exactly what they are for, but I thought they are used to seal off other primers that we don’t want to cause possible problems?
so what do you think I should do if the car has a weird paint sealer on it?
A sealer is used to separate the paint and primer so nothing can bleed threw to the paint,and if your doing the whole car it gives you a 1 color base to start painting over so the coverage will be better. I usually don’t use sealer. but if you are doing a show car I would . If it has the paint sealant on it ( it probably doesn’t) but use fish eye elimanator in the paint and very light base coats. The only way I know to completely get rid of the problem is to strip the whole car down to bare metal. I was told the sealant soaks into the paint so there is no way to remove it.
Is this the factory primer? I removed my window trims and found this red primer like stuff.
that looks like body filler, but looking at the paint that’s on the door you will have to strip the whole car. The paint has bad checking and the only way to get rid of it is to strip the car to bare metal. You can do it chemicaly with air craft stripper or with a da and paper. Air craft stripper is very messy and stinks but its a lot faster than sanding it off.
Agreed… that paint is BAD!!!
Depending on the car, and your goals/budget, I’d almost suggest gutting it and having it blasted…