O2 sims arn’t guarenteed to work. Plus like stated above there should be no reason to “tick” the computer if its done right. I just think in this instance the cat isn;t big enough from what I;m reading on sites like magnaflow and such. Just trying to get a “old timers” opinion who have been doing this for a while.
So when the code is saying Low Efficency Cat, to me that says its not “cleaning or converting” the outgoing emssions enough so a bigger cat with more catalyst in it should help.
all the rear sensor does is make sure the 2 values are different to ensure the cat is there, gm uses 1 wire sensors they’re not all that sophisticated as long as a cat is there it will produce a different reading (actually the lenght of exhaust should be enough also)
you are incorrect… read up on bosch narrowband o2’s and motronic 7E used in current audi / vw’s… o-5w narrowbands still have to report warm up reg, partial throttle, wot and ect. with M7 the o2’s do quite a bit of work and you can’t simply ‘trick’ them with a solid varience of power (constantly send 1w or 5 watts) it needs to scale.
not only will sims not work, but niether will o2 ‘eliminators’
the true way is simple, you run a spacer on the o2 to pull it out of the stream about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch… with a high flow cat, the reason you get an o2 code is because the rear heats up too fast meaning there isn’t shit where the cat should be… the solution is to pull the o2 out of the down stream so that it doesn’t heat up as fast. works fine and eliminates the check engine light.
To pass emissions with OBD2, all you have to do is this. Clear all your error codes right before you go in with a pocketlogger. If you don’t have one of these, go to a autozone right before you go to the inspection, they should clear your codes for free. Then take it right to inspection. This is how I passed emissions 2 weeks ago.
Don’t try to clear your codes by disconnecting the battery. They can tell that you did that.
correct me if I;m wrong but you are also not ODBII
And as for the clearing it with a pocketlogger, I have heard that there must be examount of miles on it after a code is cleared and they can tell if you cleared it right before inspection…
after the codes are cleared all of the obd redey ness monders are reset you have to drive the car till ther all set again with out the light comin onn if you wanna pass
drive cycles take time to pass… some take 2 minutes idling , some take 40 miles highway… some you must be above 2500 rpm and below 4500rpm for x amount of seconds. ect.
you cannot simply erase codes and get scanned. it doesn’t work… i was on the machine when i tried this…
it’s not always the same. i have a cel light on my car. i reset it at autozone and drove about 18 miles around town and it came on. another time i reset it when i was leaving the track at englishtown and drove allthe way home and part of the next day before the light came on. this is the same for a readiness code
i can watch my readiness codes with a laptop… they do not directly tie into check engine lights.
for example, on vw (i think all cars that are obdii, i just don’t know) a flashing CEL is something is up… a solid CEL means something emissions related it up.
ontop of all that, you can still fail one readiness parameter and pass in the state of PA>
ya back when the emissions just started if not all redyness monters were good you would fail i had about 1 out of 5 cars fail till they changd it. also if the cell is flaashin while driving that usually meanst that a bad missfire is hapening right at the moment
there are still ways around the emissions, if you know some one, it can be bypassed. atleast on the machine at my work it can be… but a car will pass. as long at a check engine light isn’t on and obd2 has gone through its cycle.