they go up when I manually lower them and press either the retracting button, the headlight switch or the High beams.
I replaced all four relays, both motors, timing control unit, the diode, headlights/turn signal switch in the steering colum, the fuses in the fuse box and the light retracting button on the dash. I also tested with a voltmeter the third fuse in the fuse box, terminal 9 on the timing control unit, the orange wire with black tracer on the diode pack and the orange wire on the other side of the diode pack as mentioned on other sites online. I got 12v readings on all wires but nothing has changed, they go up but not down!
I’ve been searching SON240sx forums but all topics related to my problem dont have enough info related to my situation PLEASE HELP!!!
Uhm is the button on the dash stuck or damamged ? This happened to me, back before the silvia headlights… there was something funky with the switchon the dash and the light stayed up cuz of that. but it could be something totally different just my .02
no, both buttons seem to work the same, I replaced the first one and after a few days I just put the old one back, newer looking!! if I press it and my lights are down, they will both go up and if I press it again, nothing happens
I bought the car with this problem thinking that it would be an easy fix… mind you, I have learned alot about pop up lights and Im probably not going to give up till I find the problem. There might be a cut wire or something like that, I dowloaded a light wiring diagram but it looks really complicated
There seems to be a switch that shuts off motor (see diagram) once it gets to the max/min position - diagram shows it’s built inside the motor - you got 5 wires coming off the motor - try wiring up directly and see if it operates as it should by running 12v source. Guys, correct me if I am wrong but if u bypass the timer and wire up directly - the switches should do protective job of shutting off when lights reach their required positions either way.
Even though you said you replaced the motors - this should work then… Then you can trace back the problem through wiring - maybe erroded or connection that will still yield voltage but insufficient current under load… Could temporarily jump or bypass wire sections without doing damage to existing components.
There’s another thing inside the motor but it prevents overheating and is accessible as a small metalic tab on some pop up motors (might be that tiny black tab in the diagram on each side of the lights) - but first try the top idea.
Thanks s1495, your schematic is way easier to understand than the one I had and I used it to trace back the wires from the motors to the timing unit.
The problem was a blue wire that connects relay #4 in the box beside the battery and relay #3 underneath the air filter casing. I ran a wire to connect both relays and now my lights go up and down!!!
Thanks guys for all your help and if anybody has a similar problem, use this topic to ask a question and I will try to answer them the best that I can.