hmmmm, interesting little tid bit on the ghetto pvc piping. so, i must admit, i made my own ghetto "CAI"intake using the pvc piping, jsut cause i didn’t feel like shelling out $100 for a intake on my crappy high mileage KA. figured the money could be better spent somewhere else. are there any cons to using the stuff on an intake?
the POR15 fumes i doubt will bother me. in fact, ia may pick up a bottle for cheap thrills!!! LOL
the way u describe it, the stuff sounds similiar to a product called “Steelie’s” that i have used in the past to do all kinds of low budget, hillbilly repairs. waterproof, dries to a metal like bond. any similarities??
Here’s to that! Working in the collision and refinishing industry one quickly gets very tired of improperly repaired cars that rust from the inside out, at which point the owner brings it in saying it has some “surface rust” they want sanded out and repainted. Meanwhile the panel is completely rotten and needs to be replaced. WAY more work in the long run if you take the easy way out.
Do repairs properly. Cut out bad/rusted metal and replace it, THEN seal it from oxygenating with good paint. Anything else is just being lazy and foolish.
I wonder, however, how good POR15 would be as an exterior seam bonding/sealing agent. Like to coat seams on the underbody of the car to prevent collection of water/dirt, and possibly even stiffen the joint. Thoughts?
. htere’s not set rule to using pie wedges over mandrel bent but yeah your conclusion is accurate… Titanium neds to made prebend… it is very very very hard to work with, it work hardens 10x faster then steel, is increadible strong and light but is also fragile in that it will rip in a shear force… as wor welding , yes I can weld it… but tooling for working with it , is not cheap… you need new saw baldes almost hourly and you need some serious power out of a TIG to do it… melting temp of Ti doubles that of the highest non exotic stainless alloy.
wheel size is dependant on what you want… your factors should include torque, cornering , hp, launch corner weights , scrub angle turning lock… allot of factors to it… for time attack though … take a look at some of the S15’s from japan, 500hp using ~9-10" rears and 8-9" fronts… I don’t actually have an240… so I don’t know it’s driving characteristics well enought to go one way on chioce.
Sure you can bend it…it just isn’t as easy as aluminum. Case in point vvv the pic below is a madrel bent Ti exhaust. I would think that they are using comercially pure ti because that tends to be a little softer than some of the alloys. Although even the nifty ti alloys can be bent.
If you want elitist points, go play with your magical triangle friends some more.
I don’t use POR15 for body repairs. I have used it ONCE, and I will use it again, because I have faith in the product. It, like everything has its uses.
I don’t paint it over rusty wheel wells. It converts rust and stops it from spreading and adds rigidity. Once you’ve done that, you can safely weld new rails over it and maintain the original structure.
I’ve been under enough Canadian 240s to know they get soft well before they rot. Go out and try and jack an S13 by the K. Notice all the creaks crunches and groans it makes? POR15 will add plenty of rigidity back to the chassis and make it safe. If you’ve ever done chassis repairs, you’d know that cutting out chunks of rotten frame rail on a weak chassis is dumb. You have to shore it up and work very small sections at a time bracing them together to keep the frame from twisting or cracking anywhere else.
95% of the bad body jobs out there are not done by DIYers, but rather by people in the “collision and refinishing industry”. I can’t believe the fish eye and orange peel shops are willing to hand over to a customer on a $3000 paint job … all with a 1 year warranty. A good paint job should last 5 years MINIMUM without fading, even acrylic. If a shop isn’t willing to back up their product, why go there?
You’re not surprised I run mild steel piping. Hmm … maybe 1 pound difference between using aluminum and steel for the piping. 3 1-foot sections of steel tubing are not exactly sand bags. Silicone bends are lighter than aluminum, so my I/C piping might actually weigh the same, and work the same as an aluminum setup. So why is that hillbilly and lazy? It sounds more like common sense to me. If you can do the job the same for less … it gets a bit silly to do it otherwise. Maybe removing 40lbs from my front end by swapping in fixed lights might offset that just a tiny bit? What would make more sense to you … saving 1lb or saving 39?
I can get better weight savings taking a dump before I get in the car.
I really do hope you come out to some meets and track days. I can’t wait to see what you plan on backing all of this rhetoric up with.
Unfortunately this is all too true. Having worked at several different shops now, I’ve seen this quite a few times. As you can imagine, to someone who’s a perfectionist, being told the customer will “never know the difference” is small consolation.
Like I said, I wonder how well POR15 would work to increase frame rigidity, specifically at weld points and seams…?
here’s the thing about mild steel for IC piping. first off IC charged tem is hot, it rolls through the pipes and heats them up… when the car stops… they cool down, that causes condesation on the inside of piping… I don’t know if you noticed but Ontario in particualr is very humid… , that condensation… causes rust, which flakes and chipsa and presto… rust surging back and forth between intake and turbine blades … that’s one… another? how about steel retains heat where as aluminum dissapates heat very quickly properly shielded it works to help cool the charged air… anohter? how about aluinumis used so that you can a single contigiuos element cosisting of IC and charged air piping… ideally only needs to seperate to install bulge fittings. …reality is, use whatever you want… it’s allot easier to work with aluminum then mild steel not just for the reasons above…
you won’t see too many if any srteet machines in japan or here that use the hillbilly method unless they don’t know how to do the other… if you know how to do it… chances are you’d use the method…
I really do hope you come out to some meets and track days. I can’t wait to see what you plan on backing all of this rhetoric up with.
as mentioned above, bending it needs to be dones as it formed. Titaniium used is a 3/2.5 Cr/Va alloy it’s the most durable( strength and fatigue life.) alloy out there, pure ti would not withstand the bending or just about anything eles. the machinery required is a small fortune… there are only 2-3 places in the us that actually produce tubing… none in canada… " commercially pure" titamium is something I’ve never seen as the fatigue rates are 55% higher then normal alloyed Ti.
Sure you can bend it…it just isn’t as easy as aluminum. Case in point vvv the pic below is a madrel bent Ti exhaust. I would think that they are using comercially pure ti because that tends to be a little softer than some of the alloys. Although even the nifty ti alloys can be bent.
Thanks for the info. Does anyone who replied to my question feel that for the extra expense incured with the usage of Ti it would be worth it to make IC piping with it. Not saying that I ever will. I like the post reagrding using mild steel for IC piping the rust situation makes sense to me.
Why hasn’t anyone made an exhaust out of Aluminum. I would assume because it is not very strong and could not withstand the odd scrape here and there
aluminum exhaust… problem is that aluminum sas at 400 degrees, this means that when suspended pc of aluminium is heated at 400 it will loose it’s ability to support it’s self under it’s own weight… the thinner the wall the faster it heats up. I dont’ know about you by my exhuast gets up to 1300 with flames blowing all over the place… it would be similar to taking an oxy torch at 60-40 mix ( not over hot ) and pointing it at a pc of aluminium … you’d see a melt hole in ~ 10 sec. alsot he heat cycling ( the constant expansion and contraction of the alloy would work harden the hell out of it, before you knew it it would be stress fracturing like mad… heat also anneals aliuminum making it the consistancy of the smae thickness of lead sheet. over time( week or so ) the the T hardness or say T6 would return to about T4 or so… but never reach T6 again properly… this means that it will be even weaker the next time it’s heated…
you can actually drive into a rhino liner franchise and have th ecar/truck bed, whatever done while you wait… POR15 I’ve never seen in canada FS… check their website I guess for suppliers here…
