[quote=“Violator,post:59,topic:34083"”]
ok, I have had enough of your bullshit. I dont know what your problem with the kid is nor do I give a fuck. You sound like some teen high school bitch spreading rumors and talking shit. He hasnt lied about anything. Since you clearly dont have a grasp on whats going on then why the FUCK are you making shit up?
[/quote]
I fully endorse this statement. And give it the FuzzyFish stamp of approval. :tup:
Escort GT with RWD Conversion…oh its been done and its siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq
[quote=“MaximaSE98,post:62,topic:34083"”]
Escort GT with RWD Conversion…oh its been done and its siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq
[/quote]
i second this suggestion.
[quote=“SkunkApe,post:60,topic:34083"”]
:word:
people need to really find something better to do, other than always giving adam shit…
jesus…even when shit is so damn old and over played, certain people still think it’s hilarious to bring it up. Just an FYI…it’s really not. Just shows you really have no other material for any sort of comebacks.
but back on topic…
i think an E30 would be a fun project car. You can probably find one in your prices range… but you should be baller and find an E30 M3 
widebody E30 M3 FTMFW
[/quote]
+1 for the e30
[quote=“DrDoS,post:36,topic:34083"”]
. try to think of something new while i laugh my self to the bank.
[/quote]
Talking about how much money you have. Always a class move.
Where is the motivational poster thread. I have an idea.
friendly humor:
(because you are tall)
There is A LOT of poor suggestions in this thread. If you want to build a road course car for under $10k;
1st. Seat-time. Budget enough money to go to events. How many times do you want to go in a year. Besides the NYSpeed days plan on putting aside ~$200-$300 per day (not including gas, food, fresh fluid change). 1 event per month is a good goal. Figure on six per year, $1200
2nd. Simplicity. Ignore everyone that said “swap” and “boost”. There are more than enough people that can’t get a car up and running as it is, much less for sustained periods of time. Free
3rd. Reliability. Putting money in the basics. This means wheel bearings, ball joints, brake lines, suspension bushings, reman brake calipers, fluids, over-sized radiator, belts, hoses, filters. All the nickle and diming adds up here you should allot ~$1000 of your budget, not including labor. Clutch could be considered now as well, again simple, nothing stage VIII.
4th. Safety. (what, isn’t safety 1st, stock equipment is o.k.) At a minimum get a seat and harness, not only for the safety but driver comfort (i.e. not sliding around). Besides this should give a tall person extra clearance between the roof and helmet. Ah yes helmet if you don’t have one… $400 (if you want a cage plan on $500+ for a bolt in, $1500 for an o.k. custom, $2500+ for a great one)
5th. Brakes. The biggest must do. Don’t buy into the big brakes kits, there are thousands of cars that road race each weekend on stock calipers and blank discs. Just buy real pads. Hawks are pretty darn popular, I like Carbotech myself. ~$100-$200 front set, Napas/OEMs for the rear. They should last 3 days so $200-$400 if you do #1.
6th. Suspension. The thing to do is a car that has been done before and again, copy and paste. Most likely Konis, GC sleeves and much higher than stock rates. Camber plates if you need that little extra to dial in the suspension. Don’t forget sways, and maybe some other bolt ons (strut tower, fender braces, c-pillar brace). Try to avoid the whole complete Heim joint suspension, although it has it’s benefits it would be to much adjustability and money for a novice. $1500~$2500
Sportlines springs and tokicos :lol: Maybe Illuminas and a conservative race spring to match (not blow them).
7th. Tires. I can’t say enough here, the most important mod. Buy the smallest wheels that can be reasonable run. Usually this means 15x7, some lighter cars 14x7 or 13X7 is even enough. Stick with the popular tire sizes, (i.e. the cheaper tire sizes). Buy tires used:
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20656&highlight=motherload
, this means the top guys get rid of the tires after the lose their competitiveness, but the tire isn’t “bad”, just not winning. Great for beginners and track days, I am in no mood to get into the science behind it just that stiffer than street tire side wall = more gooder. $500~$1000 if buying new. Probably want wheels too… $400
8th. Performance. (notice how this one is last) Header, header back exhaust, pulleys for some cars, WAI. Again keep it simple. Do you want to spend your time “tunning” or driving? ~$1000
Total ~$6200-$7900
What is left, buy a car with. Oh yeah don’t forget the engine swap, turbo kit…
This still doesn’t include the simple stuff that could go wrong (alternator, getting a fresh battery, p.s. pump, engine controls/sensors, master cylinder, random gremlins)
.
.
.
An M3 E30 over a 325? A quick scan of ebay shows there is a $6k-$10k premium vs. a 325, for 22hp/6tq (stock) I would hope the gains can be made up with a H/I/E and a cam for much less (obviously it won’t be as free revving). Suspension wise who cars, it is all going to be replaced.
[quote=“fairgentleman Z,post:67,topic:34083"”]
post.
[/quote]
^ just listen to this guy if you really want a competetive car
[quote=“turbo ls1 ss,post:66,topic:34083"”]
friendly humor:
(because you are tall)
[/quote]
hahaahaa
[quote=“fairgentleman Z,post:67,topic:34083"”]
There is A LOT of poor suggestions in this thread. If you want to build a road course car for under $10k;
1st. Seat-time. Budget enough money to go to events. How many times do you want to go in a year. Besides the NYSpeed days plan on putting aside ~$200-$300 per day (not including gas, food, fresh fluid change). 1 event per month is a good goal. Figure on six per year, $1200
2nd. Simplicity. Ignore everyone that said “swap” and “boost”. There are more than enough people that can’t get a car up and running as it is, much less for sustained periods of time. Free
3rd. Reliability. Putting money in the basics. This means wheel bearings, ball joints, brake lines, suspension bushings, reman brake calipers, fluids, over-sized radiator, belts, hoses, filters. All the nickle and diming adds up here you should allot ~$1000 of your budget, not including labor. Clutch could be considered now as well, again simple, nothing stage VIII.
4th. Safety. (what, isn’t safety 1st, stock equipment is o.k.) At a minimum get a seat and harness, not only for the safety but driver comfort (i.e. not sliding around). Besides this should give a tall person extra clearance between the roof and helmet. Ah yes helmet if you don’t have one… $400 (if you want a cage plan on $500+ for a bolt in, $1500 for an o.k. custom, $2500+ for a great one)
5th. Brakes. The biggest must do. Don’t buy into the big brakes kits, there are thousands of cars that road race each weekend on stock calipers and blank discs. Just buy real pads. Hawks are pretty darn popular, I like Carbotech myself. ~$100-$200 front set, Napas/OEMs for the rear. They should last 3 days so $200-$400 if you do #1.
6th. Suspension. The thing to do is a car that has been done before and again, copy and paste. Most likely Konis, GC sleeves and much higher than stock rates. Camber plates if you need that little extra to dial in the suspension. Don’t forget sways, and maybe some other bolt ons (strut tower, fender braces, c-pillar brace). Try to avoid the whole complete Heim joint suspension, although it has it’s benefits it would be to much adjustability and money for a novice. $1500~$2500
Sportlines springs and tokicos :lol: Maybe Illuminas and a conservative race spring to match (not blow them).
7th. Tires. I can’t say enough here, the most important mod. Buy the smallest wheels that can be reasonable run. Usually this means 15x7, some lighter cars 14x7 or 13X7 is even enough. Stick with the popular tire sizes, (i.e. the cheaper tire sizes). Buy tires used:
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20656&highlight=motherload
, this means the top guys get rid of the tires after the lose their competitiveness, but the tire isn’t “bad”, just not winning. Great for beginners and track days, I am in no mood to get into the science behind it just that stiffer than street tire side wall = more gooder. $500~$1000 if buying new. Probably want wheels too… $400
8th. Performance. (notice how this one is last) Header, header back exhaust, pulleys for some cars, WAI. Again keep it simple. Do you want to spend your time “tunning” or driving? ~$1000
Total ~$6200-$7900
What is left, buy a car with. Oh yeah don’t forget the engine swap, turbo kit…
This still doesn’t include the simple stuff that could go wrong (alternator, getting a fresh battery, p.s. pump, engine controls/sensors, master cylinder, random gremlins)
.
.
.
An M3 E30 over a 325? A quick scan of ebay shows there is a $6k-$10k premium vs. a 325, for 22hp/6tq (stock) I would hope the gains can be made up with a H/I/E and a cam for much less (obviously it won’t be as free revving). Suspension wise who cars, it is all going to be replaced.
[/quote]
:tup: that is what i am looking for. Thank you
question regarding going to offical track days and etc… What if you dont have the most perfect license or a license at all??
it might be completely different in LA. but just curious to know
Buying something pre-built >*
Most people end up running out of money and selling it for half of what they invested.Check on ebay in 2-3 months when projects/toys wont be bringing shit.
[quote=“DrDoS,post:70,topic:34083"”]
question regarding going to offical track days and etc… What if you dont have the most perfect license or a license at all??
[/quote]
At most they do a visual check of your license and not an extensive search of your driving abstract. So don’t show up empty handed.
[quote=“SkunkApe,post:60,topic:34083"”]
:word:
people need to really find something better to do, other than always giving adam shit…
jesus…even when shit is so damn old and over played, certain people still think it’s hilarious to bring it up. Just an FYI…it’s really not. Just shows you really have no other material for any sort of comebacks.
[/quote]
ie. 5-2 BANG
Wheres my $?
[quote=“Daddie,post:58,topic:34083"”]
[/quote]
Listen to me, buy a 240, do suspension, enjoy.
also, your car will hold it’s value like crazy with the drifter crowd.
i got 2 foxbodys for sale
91 anniversary vert white top red paint white leather red/black dash $4000
91 notchback
Both are rust free. Vert was from Maryland and Notch was from Tampa Bay, PM for price
PM me if you are interested. I’ll give you a list of mods and pics if you are seriously interested.
[quote=“DrDoS,post:70,topic:34083"”]
:
it might be completely different in LA. but just curious to know
[/quote]
It’s not different in LA, fairgentleman Z pretty much covered all the bases.
So glad I just moved this to Offtopic, some of you are so immature. :roll:
Dos’ IP is from LA. While I won’t assume anything, I would think he wouldn’t go through all the trouble of spoofing an LA IP. So everyone can stop banging that dead monkey now.
If he wants to go into debt modding a car, let him. Many of you do the same shit. :shrug: