I think my 2’X8’ section of 18 guage galvanized cost me $50 for my rocker panels.
Wow Expensive Lol
wow would that be enough for a floor pan?
probably not.
try removing your seats and carpet and take a good look, I really can’t tell you much, you have NO PICS, etc etc.
go find a hood or door from a scrap car, you can probably find one for free or $5-10 bucks. I"m not 100% sure what gauge it is probably 18-20, thick enough if your just replacing sections and not your whole floor.
when your cutting out the rust, be generous and get ALL of it, even if it just has surface rust, get rid of it. Cut a piece of good metal to fit and overlap roughly 2-3cm all around, Drill, Rivet, paint, Seam Seal and done.
Btw, who ever said to use 45 gauge steel, Lol. That would probably be thinner then a strand of hair, if it even existed.
Good luck
Pictures are being added as we speak
pics are up------> http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/randyrashid/
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^do you honestly believe the hood is the same thickness metal as the floor pan?
I would bet money otherwise.
How do you make it not private?
Ok just made it public, sorry about that guys.
No, did I say it was? Have you patched a floor of a 240? The metal isnt thick, probably thicker then a hood per say, but when replacing a section of the floor with metal a couple thousanths of an inch thinner, do you really think that will sacrifice the intgrety of the floor? If he was worried about the structural aspect THAT much he wouldnt be putting his time into this car and would be welding instead of riveting.
This will fix the problem, taking into consideration the tools, time and skills that he has, and Its a cheap alternative to spending possibly close to $100 on metal, if he pays the price you did.
Well not to be rude but can we just stay on topic just for my sake.
That was on topic… :rolleyes: ??
I paid wholesale at metal supermarket. The 4’X8’ sheet would have been $96 IIRC, but they cut it in half for me. are you saying I paid too much?
No floor patching, just wheels wells, 18 guage galvanized, damm black magic sand, it revealed the weak spots like magic.
I suppose it couldn’t hurt… to use the body metal on the floor, I wouldn’t, but then again I have seen much worse, hole wise. I mean, if you just want a daily driver to have a little fun in for a couple years.
Yeah, there’s no pop riveting frame rails, thats just rediculous.
so ur saying seeing from pics to keep the car??Also the car looked good outside eh?:D:D:D:D:D
Car isn’t in that bad of a shape. Frame is 18 gauge, floor is 20 or something like that. I know it’s reaaaaly fuckin thin. You’re gonna laugh when you see the sheetmetal for it. If you want to make it nice and clean, it’s gonna take a lot of work and metal shaping. For the frame, I like to use construction paper, or cardboard to make little models and then transfer them onto sheetmetal with a marker. Saves you a lot of time and material, imo.
Well i was gonna pay some one to do just the frame because to tell you the truth i dont want to mess up the frame especially if im gonna drift with it.
And i noe a place to get sheet metal.Your gonna laugh. My area where i live in is a new developement ill just go in the houses being made and take some.
lol i did that with pvc pipes before to make a soccer net, good quality materials for good prices!!!
Nono, im not saying you paid too much, galvanized is expensive. I bought my metal from metal supermarket too, they charge top dollar but have anything you would ever possibly need. I was just saying that for the amount of metal he needs there are other more cost worthy solutions then to pay top dollar buying new stuff.
From the pictures, it really dosnt look too bad. Start removing the sound detoning as that may be covering more rust. Get the frame rails replaced, holes patched and your good to go, beat on her till she dies.