You’re pushing off Turbos to people now, yet you won’t bite the bullet and get one yourself???
Terry Terry… You’re in denial.
You and Cal-Soy should get the same sized turbos on your SR as a group deal from a vendor, run the same minimal buildups on each car and let us all know the gains from boosting a stock NA SR versus boosting a stock NA KA.
Well my plans arent that big for this car.
- Multilink first probably megan, anthony said he could hook me up
- coils next (looking for budget, a used set? maybe megan again, i’ve read that they’re good bang for buck.
- probably just gonna put an intake on the KA, run it into the ground for a year then sell it to hanzz so he can turbo it! XD
- Then go SR
In between i would like to get some JDM half-clears, and a 180sx tailpiece and a wangan wing.
Things i need though
- new tires 195 in the front, 205s in the back(would love a set of 7-spokes
- distributor where would be the best place to get one? scrapyard?
I don’t know what he’s doing but he might be converting back. He says he might turbo his 200SX down the road. He’s still heavily into NA engines.
Few more KM until he takes my car for a boosted spin.
I should’ve gone Megan. I should’ve listened to Louis240SX. The Megans are apparantely better for the S13
You should do what everyone else isn’t. Boost your KA. Your engine is the perfect Candidate, and with the money you’re gonna save on this car from the low purchase price, you can afford to buy a small used turbo and a Turbo manifold. The rest is tubing from Crappy Tire. I even got a Mazda MX-6 Intercooler that I’ll sell you. BTW Intercoolers are not effective for anything less than 8psi, so for a stock KA that is not equipped to run that boost level this may be overkill
I’m going to Standard Auto Wreckers today, and I’m almost certain they have a few 240s kicking around in the yard. Ring me if you wanna come. I should be leaving soon
Haha, thanks for the offers everyone, but i dont wanna ka-T this year yet, i wanna save some money and make sure the car can be made to be reasonably reliable over this year and i’ll probably go forced induction next year whether its KAT or SR.
Pyro, thanks for the review, i’m probably gonna look into Megan cause i’m looking to make this a mild track car and a daily driver. I’m probably gonna just stay Megan all around. I’ll probably make a trip to standards next monday-ish.
Right now i’m still debating whether or not to use my budget for this car on only this s13 or should i invest in a front wheel beater? cause I’m gonna be driving back and forth almost everyweekend from waterloo, and i hear the snow can get pretty bad. If i stay with the S13 for the winter, can the megans be dialed up for a good almost-stock ride height?
shut up cal, you dont have a choice, I’m turboing your KA whether you like it or not.
lol!
i will probably turbo my 200SX eventually, either that or just swap in a bluebird motor. but as far as this S13 project im thinking about doing… a turbo would be less reliable for full track use, that’s why i want to make it N/A
I cry a little everynight because I want an E30 BMW soo badly.
Hey Cal, there are two 240s at Standard right now. One’s an S13 and ones an S14. I was surprised to see an S14 in there, but it was pretty beat up suspension-wise.
there is one that races in CTCC, 2.3 M3 motor with stock ITB’s. it’s maad loud, i have to cover my ears if im at the wall and it goes by.
Awesome, thanks for the heads up, i’ll be looking to go early next week.
How does standard’s work? Cause this’ll be my first at a scrapyard.
-cal
you sign your name and walk in.
you take your parts off cars, on the way out you pay for them.
So do you pay according to how many parts you take out or is it like fixed rate?
nah, just on a regular day they have a catalog with prices for different itmes.
if you go on their site you can look at the catalog for an idea on pricing.
Alright, my exams are almost over now, so i have to sort out a dilemma while i’m on break from international law.
How should i do the body work?
- the rocker and frame holes require some work so…
- fibreglass the rockers and weld the frame?
- weld both?
- can i buy new rockers?
My friend who’s done bodywork on his 1979 honda accord fastback says that even if its bodywork, to stick with welding. However, i have no idea whatsoever on how to weld the rockers.
And i was wondering if someone who has a mig and experience could come give me a hand sometime over the week and teach me so i can do it myself.
But first, i’m off to standards to pick up that distributor. I have no idea on how to approach the scrapyard cause i’ve never been to one. Will the people there take advantage of my noobness?
Anyways, work commences on tuesday
monday - final exam + chilling with the ladyfriend
tuesday - pick up parts, try to get motor started
wednesday - back to school to pick up marksnshit, sort out whatever problems came up with the engine
thursday - hopefully i’ll start bodywork
^^^
very optimistic schedule
Possible, but not the first option
You can and this is probably what you’ll end up doing
Best option
I saw one 240 (S13) in there and one 240 (S14) in there. If they haven’t changed the cars yet then those cars are probably mangled. Today and yesterday were Free Parts day ($45 gets in and you take anything that you can hold with your hands and keep from touching the floor)
No they won’t take advantage of you if you go to a pick your parts yourself.
Agreed :R
Lend me your strength patpat! TEACH ME TO WELD!
when you go to the junkyard, dont wear sandles.
i was welding rockers on my sentra this week, its not hard, i could get 3 patches about 5" x 10" done in about 3 hours, but that’s me 
seriously tho, autobody welding isnt like any other welding. you’re making a series of tacks along the edge of the patch. you can’t make the tacks next to each other, you have to spread them out so that you dont get too much heat into the metal, if you do, it will warp which means more bondo. u also cant hold the trigger too long or you will burn through.
patching rust isnt just about the welding either. you need to cut out as much bad metal as you can. if you dont have a good solid piece to start your patch, you will be burning through thin rusty shit constantly and chasing your welds all over the place.
hahahaha good point Terry. Sandals = big nono.
I hate welding body panels. With Nissan Body panels no matter how much spacing between the tacks you do you’ll still have the metal warp. With the bodies of Japanese import cars it’s not about trying not to use bondo, it’s about trying to use as little as possible.
I can show you all the body parts on my 300 that I spent welding with and all of those parts have bondo on them. I shaved the power antenna for example. If I take out the inner body panels you can see my spot welding, and then for the little holes that didn’t get welded you can see bondo streaming through.
By far I’m not the best person to use as a welding teacher. I can’t teach things like those. I have experience on my own but they’re more bad habbits than proper structure. Terry is a Sheet Metal Apprentice. TERRY TERRY lets see your welds.
my welds are bad-ass pimp, i throw down tacks like a muh f*cka
talk to TurboZee on SON, i saw the welds he did for his intake pipe at today’s west meet, very good job heh
TurboZee, is he sidexitexhaust on this forum? Cause he’s Zee too.