For sale is my 2001 Camaro SS that I bought in early 2004. I love this car and as the old cliché goes, I’ve flushed a lot of blood sweat and tears into this thing, and even more $$$$$. This is truly a unique looking (and performing) car, and it gets compliments every time I bring it out, which unfortunately is becoming less and less frequent.
There are a couple reasons why I’m selling this car. First and foremost, I just don’t have the time to enjoy it like I used to. I am co-running a new division of a company, and most of my time is spent with my customers or behind the desk. I literally have very little time to take the car out, let alone deal with the normal maintenance. On top of a lack of time, I’m not a fan of the whole “car scene” anymore. I don’t street race, and I don’t enjoy hanging out in parking lots. I especially don’t like the drama. Frankly, I just don’t find the enjoyment in the hobby like I used to, and I think it’s time to move on.
This car has been set up to run at the track, but it is street driven quite frequently. It is very fun to take it for a rip on a sunny afternoon. The car is extremely clean and looks very mean coming down the street. Appearance of the car has always been top consideration.
As far as performance, the car has run a best of 9.1 @ 150, and I’m hoping to make it out for a solid 8 second pass in the next couple weeks. The car is easily capable of solid 8’s; all it requires is some track time. Through a TH400 and a M9, that car has made 785rwhp at 17.5psi. These numbers may be misleading and seem low, but the car is proven to perform. The 80# injectors are maxed out safely at 90%dc on C16, which calculates to roughly 1200fwhp. The car is street driven on the wastegate at ~12psi on 93octane, which is more than enough power for a cruise or to make it to the grocery store. The car was built by yours truly with the help of some good friends and J&J Speedshop, and it was recently tuned safely by Julio @ Cartek, who is widely believed to be the premier LSx tuner. The setup probably has another easy 100hp+ in it with larger fuel injectors, although I wouldn’t push my luck of keeping the heads on with the 4-bolt setup. Right now it makes wayyy more power than is every needed on the street, but it’s not on edge. All said and done, the car passes NYS Inspection, and I haven’t had any issues with the car other than tires in 2010. No expenses were spared on this car as I’m a firm believer in “you get what you pay for.”
Here are the car specifications:
2001 Camaro SS
48,xxx miles
Hardtop, PW, PL, PS
Electron Blue Metallic paint (professionally painted)
TH400 (previously M6, still has the M6 pedals)
ENGINE
-Shortblock was built by J&J Speed Shop and professionally machined at Oddy’s. It currently has roughly 2000 miles, and is very clean inside.
-410ci Gen III LS1
-LQ9 iron block – decked, cylinder honed to 4.040” with torque plate, mains align honed
-Diamond IBF custom race pistons – thermal and friction coated, tool steel pins, 4.04” bore
-Callies Compstar 4” crankshaft - smaller 2” rod journals for less bearing speed
-Callies Compstar 6.125” H-Beam Rods – smaller 2” journals, ARP 2000
-AFR 225 4” bore heads – inconal EV’s, new seals (2010), spring upgrade, stock rockers
-J&J Custom Cam-Motion Camshaft – 236/232 duration, ~.60x” lift, 114lsa
-Comp Cams hardened pushrods
-Double roller timing chain
-YellaTerra Harmonic Balancer – 10% UD
-J&J ported oil pump
-ACL Calico coated bearings everywhere
-ARP main and head studs
-LS9 5-layer headgaskets (torqued from the outside in, no water pushed at all)
-LS6 intake, stock throttle body
TURBO
-I built this setup in the ’07-’08 winter. The pictures speak for themselves as far as build quality goes. Having had “kits” in the past which were sub-par, I wanted to build something that was simple but effective. The setup currently is in great condition, and is rather low-maintenance. The JET-HOT sterling coating is currently intact, but a faded and a little tired. It is not necessary at this time, but a “recoat” would probably bring it back to the like-new appearance.
-S88 AirWerks Turbo – T6 flange, 1.3 A/R
-Truck manifolds – 2.5” MS hot-side, fully TIG welded, JET-HOT coated, studded T6 flange
-ALL connections are with Vibrant keyed S/S V-band clamps
-TiAL 44mm wastegate, TiAL 50mm BOV
-5”-4” Downpipe, wastegate plumbed into exhaust, JET-HOT coated
-4” MS exhaust all the way back, hidden tailpipe, painted black, 4” magnaflow race muffler
(The exhaust note is subtle but you can still hear the cam, nice and quiet in the cabin), new in 2010
-Aluminum charge piping, TIG welded, bead rolled
-Vibrant hose couplers, constant tension t-bolt clamps
-“Ebay” 4” FMIC (rather low IATs)
-Greddy Profec B ORIGINAL boost controller (easy to use), HI and LOW setting, Ramp rate control
DRIVELINE
-A lot of this stuff a brand spanking new in 2010. In mid-2009, I converted the car from M6 to TH400 after blowing my last clutch, and in 2010 I sold my 12 bolt and bought the 9” for extreme use.
-TH400, RMVB, T-Brake, front mount fluid cooler and custom converter built by Competition Transmissions in mid 2009
-Hurst quarter stick shifter
-Moser M9 fabricated 9” rear end – 3.25:1 pro-street gears, spool, aluminum center section, shortened 3” per side, 35 spline axles, back-brace, LCA brackets and Sway bar brackets welded on, 5/8” studs, new in 2010 (very low gear whine while cruising, although it sounds like a blower when you are boosting)
-Denny’s Nitrous Ready 3” driveshaft – strange billet yoke, new in 2010
-Fleet Pride driveshaft (extra) – 3.5”, spicer yoke, new in 2009
-2nd Denny’s Nitrous Ready driveshaft – sized for M6 to 12 bolt, too small, but I’ll throw it in
-OEM front brakes – SSBC slotted rotors and pads with a lot of meat
-Strange rear race brakes – no e-brake, slotted single rotors, s/s braided lines, new in 2010
-SLP Line lock
-Wilwood proportioning valve
-No ABS
ELECTRONICS
-Stock PCM
-HP Tuners 3 bar
-Tuned by Julio at Cartek in 2010
-Stock ignition
-Taylor Wires
-Braille 15lb battery – holds charge fantastically, runs my stereo system w/o a hitch, new in 2010
-6L Truck Alternator – new in 2009
-T-Brake, Lingenfelter 2-step (has issues), line lock
-Autometer phantom gauges: vacuum30/boost20, engine oil temp, trans temp, fuel psi
-Autometer black faced gauge: fuel level (I have a ’98 tank with level sender that doesn’t work with my 2001 computer, hence the gauge)
-Innovate LC1 wideband – may need to be warrantied, new in 2010
-Autometer shift light
-Greddy Profec B – ORIGINAL profec boost controller
-Custom Stereo setup – Alpine 9811, all new wiring, elemental designs 4-channel, power bass 6.5”in sails, polk audio 6.5” in doors. Stealth 10” subwoofer box (needs new sub/amp).
FUEL
-80# hi-impedance injectors – new in 2009
-Dual in-tank walbro 255 pumps
-FAST fuel rails
-Aeromotive boost referenced regulator
-Aeromotive filter
-1998 steel tank
-8an feed split into both rails
-6an return
COOLING
-Griffen radiator
-(2) 12” SPAL puller fans
-stock waterpump
-160* thermostat
WHEELS
-The wheels are tucked in the rear 1” per side. This is achieved by a 3” per side narrowed rear end, and only 2” more offset per rear wheel than factory, for a tuck of 1”.
-Billet Specialties Street Lite 15x10” rears with 5.5” BS, new in 2010
-Billet Specialties Street Lite 15x3.5” fronts, .25” spacer, new in 2009
-Mickey Thompson Sportsmen front tires, only about 20 miles on them
-Mickey Thompson 325/50/15 DR’s, yet to be mounted
APPEARANCE
-Electron Blue Metallic paint, PPG, smooth like glass, very clean
-Hardtop
-Black molded carpet, new in 2009. Forgot the name of the company, but it is made with oem standards
-Black floormats with “camaro ss” embroidered
-Black headliner on molded abs, new in 2010
-White gauge overlay with T/A bezel
-Ebony plastics (sail plastics needed to be trimmed for minitubs)
-OEM SS badges with red outlines
-Carbon Fiber nose badge and rear bowtie
-Dark tint on pass window and hatch glass (driver window needs to be redone)
-Car has a mean stance, low in front, via springs in suspension section
-Whistler mod – painted headlight housings
-DDM 6000k HID low beams
-Tinted tail lights (subtle)
-Tinted turns (dark), will throw in clear turn housings and crappy ebay tinted housings
-New windshield in 2010
-Billet grille, black powdercoated
SAFETY/CHASSIS
-10 pt cage. It was done in 2 sections. Rear is a wolfe racecraft MS weld in with over the seat bars. The front part is CM and was custom built by a local guy who builds BIG dollar stuff. The bars are TIG welded and fit TIGHT and clean. Never had it certified, but shouldn’t be a problem. Painted with rustoleum hammertone black
-5 point corbeau cam lock race harnesses (black)
-Kirkey race seats (17” driver and 18” passenger), black cloth pads. The seats are mounted right to the floor in order to gain head clearance from the cage. The car is street driven and adequate head clearance was a must. New in 2010
-Will throw in my like-new corbeau TRS black leather seats with adjustable tracks that were purchased in 2009. I took these out when I put the cage in to gain head clearance. They cost me $1,500
-Wolfe minitubs (had to trim my sail panel plastics, could use some more trimming for better fitment)
-BMR boxed sub-frame connectors
-PA-racing tubular K-member
SUSPENSION
-Moser M9 CM full length adjustable torque arm with slip joint – new in 2010
-Spohn CM double adjustable panhard bar – poly/rod – new in 2009
-UMI Upper panhard relocation bar, retains upper bar and allows for 4” exhaust
-Spohn CM offset double adjustable LCAs – new in 2010
-BMR X-treme rear sway bar – new in 2010
-OEM Bilstein shocks all around
-3” QA1 rear springs – 130# with adjustable wolfe mounts
-Eibach pro-kit front springs
NEED TO KNOWS
-So it is clear and a potential buyer doesn’t find out by surprise, there was a fire over the gas tank back in 2008. The car has since been COMPLETELY restored as I stripped the car down to nothing built it back up. Top to bottom (underside included), it is easily one of THE cleanest cars you will see that sees actual street and track use. I’ll let the pictures do the talking. The title is also completely clear on the car.
-The notorious GM glue issue with the subtle roof bubbling showed back up after the paintjob. It’s definitely not the end of the world, and many people don’t even notice it, but it is there.
-The paint is a 9/10. The finish is way nicer than an OEM orange peel job. The car has always been sealed with zaino products. In fact, due to lack of time, the car has only been wiped down and washed only about 5 times, but it still is clean as hell. It could use a light cut though.
-The rear bumper could be replaced. It shrunk before it was painted, and there is some below the surface spider-webbing happening. It is very subtle, but it is there. No one notices this unless I tell them, and im betting most people wouldn’t care.
-The interior is clean but not perfect. I cut a hole in the lower section of the center console for a gauge, but no longer use this spot, so it is an open hole. The sail panels were also trimmed for the minitubs. Some further trimming could be done for better fitment.
-No ABS, no air bags, no e-brake, no back-up lights (would need to rig up a switch), no oil-level sensor (if you rely on this for a car like this, that’s just bad!). In order to eliminate some dash warning lights (such as the “E-BRAKE” light, I simply covered the bulb.
-Passenger side window has a chip near the top. It doesn’t need to be replaced, but it is there
-2-step has been giving me some issues and probably needs to be sent back to be checked out
-No HVAC
-Having no overdrive and being a turbo car, I wouldn’t recommend long distance driving. The oil will heat up quick if high RPM’s are held, although an oil cooler will cure this. BTW, I use Mobil 1 15-50 oil.
-The downpipe was moved and it is currently intermittently tapping the starter, but I intend on adjusting that. It shouldn’t be a hard fix at all. Other than that, there is little to no cabin noise at all.
CONCLUSION
As I mentioned, I’m looking to move on, but I don’t need to get rid of the car, so I’m not going to give it away. Most everything on the car is rather new, and you are getting a turn-key head-turner that hopefully will be a proven 8 second street car in the next week. I also have a shop full of extras that I will throw in with the car at no extra charge. To the buyer, I will give all necessary maintenance and operational information, and help with any issues within reason. Beyond that, the sale will be final, and I don’t want to be married to the car once your name is on the title.
At this power level, stuff breaks. Right now, the car is in tip-top shape with zero mechanical issues, but something is bound to break sooner or later. I just wanted to make that clear.
The car is located near Buffalo, NY, and I am asking $35,000, but will entertain reasonable offers. Lowballs will not be responded to, and neither will price suggestions. I am also not looking for trades. I will gladly take a potential buyer for a ride, but will not hand the keys over for joyrides. I will be glad to answer questions, but please don’t waste my time.
My name is Bill Gorman, and for starters, the best way to get in contact with me is through a PM on this forum. If someone on here finds me a buyer, I will give you $300.
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PICTURES
this next picture was from when i was fabbing my exhaust. i will get an up to date picture shortly:
