Question on passing OBDII inspection

So I started getting a check engine light a month ago. I pulled out my code reader and it wastwo codes, but both were a P0500 for the Vehicle speed sensor. Odd that they were the same code? I cleared the codes and it came up again. I later figured out that if I’m in 3rd 4th or 5th gear and go over 3k the check engine light goes on and will stay on till I reset it. Simply changing the speed sensor won’t work because the diff is messed up pretty bad from doing heaters and drifting in non snowy conditions lol. I was told by a shop that there can’t be any codes or the car won’t pass but I thought that was just for emissions. Thats just what I was told by somebody a couple years ago.

The car in question is a 97 328i. How many monitors have to be set to pass the OBDII test? I have all set but 4

Here are some screen shots from my scanner.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/Red2000SR/2011-11-28_23-46-53_611.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/Red2000SR/2011-11-28_23-45-55_535.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/Red2000SR/2011-11-28_23-45-25_861.jpg

This is the code that is showing up twice?
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/Red2000SR/2011-11-28_23-48-18_696.jpg

Can I still pass with that code or no?

On a 97 you can pass an inspection with 2 monitors not ready/complete. You just have to hope that the monitor(s) throwing your check engine light are either the last or second last to become ready/complete.

I know this for a fact, my dad’s 99 Buick just passed a few weeks ago with two monitors not ready. Lucky for him the Evap monitor was the one throwing his check engine light and that was the last to complete. I’m unfortunately not sure if you’ll be so lucky.

but is it true that any check engine light you won’t pass?

I have the same issue with my miata if the evap monitor sets I’m screwed because the coolant re-route blocks the evap tube from being able to be installed. That was last spring tho, I have a different re route now so we shale see next year when I have to turn the car back to stock to get it inspected.

Think so. Just curious though as to how the code won’t get better with a new sensor - unless the reluctor ring for the sensor is toast.

Of course, you could try and get by with clearing the codes just as you drop off the car. Not sure if the lot jockey would clear 3k RPM in third on the lot… :wink:

I could try swapping the sensor out as I have two diffs laying in my shed one of which I’m about to make a for sale thread for. I have no problem staying under 3k unless I get on z highway. Kinda hard to stay under 3k with the 3.23 rear end. I have reset it a few times lol

96-99 can have 2 unset monitors. 2000 and up only 1. anything that effects the emissions wil set the light. wheel speed will affect timing and fuel which will effect emissions hence the light. it will not pass with a light on(there are a very few exceptions)
you can go to http://www.nyvip.us/ for more info

Let me clarify what I meant by sticking with the example of my dad’s beat up 99 Buick.

He got a check engine light. He called me. I came over and checked it with the Torque app on my Droid. I cleared the check engine light then we switched cars for a couple days so I could check the monitors a few times a day as I drove the car around more. We knew the Evap monitor was the one throwing the code so we were hoping it was one of the last two to become ready.

As soon as I saw he only had 2 incomplete monitors we switched cars again and I told him to get it inspected ASAP. He took it in with two monitors incomplete but with no CEL because the monitor throwing the code hadn’t completed yet. It passed and the CEL came on like two days later.

If you can somehow work it out the same way, you’re good.

Quick question here: when you guys are mentioning the monitors becoming “ready” does that refer to how you need to drive a certain distance after turning off the CEL to get it completely cleared? I think it’s like 40-50 miles or something right?

Yep. 40, 50 or 60, I think varies but it’s around there.

Gotcha, thanks. I’m kinda in the same boat but being a 2000 I can only afford one. But I can shut my light off and drive for hundreds, sometimes thousands of miles before it comes back on.

Really doesnt matter on the 40-60 miles. Once the car matches the enabling criteria to run the monitor, it will run. I know a couple of guys who can set all the monitors on a lift (i didnt beleive it till it was demonstrated). if you dont want the evap monitor to run wouldnt it be easier to just keep the gas tank full or empty

Can’t 2000 have 2 monitors as well? My 2000 miata was able to pass on two monitors not set, I was hoping for 3 for the 97 when I asked the question.

I’ll check out that link and see if I can get around it, thanks. My speedo and tack work completely fine by the way, not sure if that would help my case.

I knew what you meat. :smiley: and thanks!

I could get my miata to set all monitors but 2 with just a drive around the block. My block is bear ridge to tonawanda creek to camble and back on bear ridge, so thats a pretty nice size block lol. I remember now I looked up how to set the monitors and went threw that process, I’ll have to do the same for this car.

keep a full tank of gas in the car and the evap will not set, quick way to get around a evap code situation.

Zing! http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.BMW/BMW%20FTP72%20Drive%20Cycle%20Procedure.pdf

I’m going to try this on my way home tonight.