If you wanna do it right go C/m even if you dont go that fast and you want to sell it in the nfuture its worth more since you can add bars to make the cert to go lower teh 7.50
Look into buying a roller someone is dumping thats there now. But isn’t worth it for them to upgrade to a current 25.1/2/3/5 and would need to start over. There are selling them CHEAP, racing junk is alot of jump but look there, and yellowbullet, smallblockpose.net ect.
Pm me about this what you have now and everything :snky:
this is a really stupid thread too. You think anyone with this setup on a DR is going to be rocking a 165R kumo powerstar on the front ? what do you think the tires would be?
My father has a 1978 Z28 camaro cert to 7.50 for sale. its a roller set up for lenco and bbc. 12k
I love how the first post is “I trapped 80 in the 1/8th” last year…then goes to “I want to run 10s next year” now its I want a roll rage/cert to go 7.5 in the 1/4
Do you hang out with that GTO kid?
Not to mention you’re running a powerglide you might want to look into finding a tire/gear combo for the times/mph you want to run.
Glide with a 3.73s and 29inch tires 6500 rpm = 150ish
I’m aware about the 29’’ tire with 3.73s. I have calculators aswell.
As for last year, I trapped like 80 years ago, Did you forget that im an oval guy, I’ve driven plenty of cars over 100 in the 105 - 125 range before, just never down the strip.
Basically what your saying is I should spend 5g on an ls1 fbody, then mod that,so when I wanted to go faster, id have to sell it for half that and start over.
when I could spend 5g on a chassis and put a 12 second motor in it, then 4 years from now, if I want to go 8’s Id have the chassis for it.
Studderin, I’ll hit you up. I just dont understand FRONT tire sizes, I dont know why people keep talking about rear tire sizes.
The last car I ran had 275 60 15’s in the back and 215 65 15’s in the front, is that ideal? probabaly not, but I dont know what ideal is for front to rear tire sizes, that was the point of this thread.
also to find out about running radials with slicks, Id rather not run a 165$ per tire front drag skinny tire on the street, and i dont want to change front and rear tires everytime i go to the strip if i dont have too.
Karter it takes a lot to get a ~9.99 cert I am not sure you have read up enough. I would get the car running the way you want it to right now then worry about longer term goals.
I just skimmed but am I reading this right? You plan on maybe running 12s and you want a shell certified to run 8s?
I’d probably plan to get into the 11s way before you plan to get sub-10…
Yeah ive been reading the nhra rule book for about a month now.
I’ve got a shell i can go 12’s in, But I need a longer term project so I dont have to do everything twice.
Dropping in a motor and going isnt really too much fun to me, which is why my old car was slow. even tho 80 in eigth pushing 3600lbs with a 305 is MOVING.
I was planning on starting with a stub frame probabaly old school camaro or gbody, and buying a chassis kit, which comes with the rails and complete rear frame area, already narrowed and set up for 4 link / coil over. they also come in the 12 pt variety with optional funny car style cage, which is what I’m trying to avoid for now.
Everyone has a money pit, this will be mine.
I appreciate the help i’ve got thus far.
Everyone has to start somewhere.
I figure I’ll drive my boat down the strip some this summer, meanwhile spending time/ money/blood on building the chassis with the 7.99 cert as my goal.
I feel like I’ve said this 18 times now, I dont have any desire to build it twice, unless I slam it into a wall at 135mph, then its my fault.
cliffs. an 8 second chassis is good to 8 seconds no matter how fast it actually goes.
Im probabaly going to shoot for the outlaw 10.5 class to start, but i need to read more class specific rules.
You keep saying 80mph trap what did you run in the 1/8th? 8’s?
Wtf are you talking about when you mentioned buy a 5g Fbody and then scarp it when you want to go fast…
Look at Turbo started with a 13sec LS1 Fbody and now its 9sec bordering on 8sec F-body that he can still drive on the street…No matter what body style car you start with you can pretty much build it up to run 8’s, 7s and keep it legal to track standards.
Your original question was about drag tires then you flipped it and said you’re building a completely separate chassis.
Maybe you should start a separate thread about building a drag car?
You still haven’t answered a lot of the standard questions when picking a tire combo for a car for example what MPH you plan on trapping at?
Everyone here is more then nice enough to help you pick out a working combo.
Edit: It’s still pretty impressive your going from 80mph in the 1/8th with a 305 -> running 10s -> 7.5 chassis cert all in one thread.
truth. my omni trapped over 80 in the 1/8th.
I’ll start a seperate thread, this thread got derailed, because I dont know what the thing will trap.
I’ve got a bunch of guestimations, as to exact power the motor is going to put down, how much the chassis should weigh.
Thanks lz.
edit, per driver equiptment im good to 135 mph.
If I buy a better suit, shoes and neck collar my options are unlimited as fast as I can go.
so for this threads sake, trap speed will be in the tune of 130 - 135.
GO.