RB25DET 240sx Swap

[Mr.K]

@Zman86

Thanks for putting up the HP equation, I forgot about it. Unless you went with an all aluminum V8 swap, I imagine the car would be very front heavy, a small aluminum V8 may be in the same weight category as an RB25, probably bit more. I’ve driven a newer silverado with a 6.0L and the truck hauled ass, I couldnt imagine that engine in a small coupe. Chevy also has a 4.8 (or 4.7, cant remember) and you cant forget Chevy 5.7’s and 5.0’s, chrysler has a 4.7, Ford has 5.0L and 4.6’s. You could easily build a 5.0 that puts out 250hp for cheap, or better yet, put in a GT40 engine out of a 97 Ford Explorer, one of the better engines that have come out of the Ford factory. Options are endless, it all comes down to how much money you want to spend and how much work you want to do, and also what type of driving are you planning on doing. And most JDM engine dealers offer some type of warranty, but you usually have to provide documentation that it was installed by a liscensed mechanic at a shop.

Edit- Just read your last post, Good luck with whatever you decide to do man!

An all aluminum V8 (LS1, LS2, LS3, etc) has been weighed in as being less than the stock KA. The Iron block/Aluminum head V8s (LT1, Vortec 5300/6000) are a bit more, but I would imagine that they’re around RB25 weight, if not a little less. The Liter count on V8s like those look big, but physically the engines aren’t very big and don’t weigh much, which is the advantage. Stock any of the listed engines put down ~300HP or more, and can be had for $2500 for the LS1 and $1600ish for the LT1, and even less for the Vortecs.

Given you know the engine’s history, I’d say your best bet is to keep it and upgrade as you see fit. Price check a rebuild kit and a turbo setup. Try and get a quality rebuild kit (forged stuff), not much point in replacing stock parts with shit parts =p.