I have searched and searched and all I see is different answers all the time.
What do you need to do to an RB20DET before installing into a car?
I have heard use an MLS head gasket - then I hear don’t use an MLS head gasket as they tend to leak use stock.
Also something about an oil pump collar to fix oil pressure issue - then elsewhere there is no issue at all?
Also the stock turbo’s like to explode at 10psi or higher - people saying they run 17psi all day long on it?
Anything else I am missing ? ? ? ? ?
Now I am trying to figure out all the big and little things that would need attention before fully installing one into a car as a full motor swap so there will be no issues that arising in the near future from not doing something before install.
Thank you in advance for anyones help in this matter.
(I have just read and heard so many different things that it all makes my mind boggle)
I’d just do the timing belt and water pump. Enjoy!
This kind of stuff isn’t rocket science, these motors are pretty bulletproof from what I’ve seen. I never bothered with a metal head gasket and ran 1 bar on track. I dunno. It all depends on how much time, money and how much you want to put into the project.
Anything can be done better, ie, you can do a MHG along with many other things but do you need to?
I say take care of the essential, timing belt, water pump, throw that bitch in and enjoy!
I’d rebuild it if possible. It’s a 20 year old engine with 20 year old seals. It’d be nice to have new seals, perhaps new pistons, valves, and some beadwork. Have everything set to spec again, a new water pump, N1 oil pump, JUN crank collars, Tomei poncams, valve springs, retainers, cam gears. A new manifold to ditch that stock POS. That would be ideal to me. It cost $$$$ to do shit right.
Sr20’s can make just as much if not even more power… For less money also… Not sure where you have been getting your info.
They might be much cheaper at the start. But these engines just keep taking money from your pocket. Little things that you dont expect you will need add up.
eff that. I spent less overall on any RB20 swap and I had more fun driving them. The sound alone is worth it. Gas mileage is same same. Just make sure you get it tuned. They’re really rich from factory.
That ebay link you posted is just some dude selling an EPROM to reflash your ECU. You can get that done specifically for your mods and car when you’re ready.
Just do your maintenance, install and have fun! These motors are pretty bulletproof and can’t be beat for fun factor. The sound…uuuuuuuu. You remember hearing my car go down the front straight at Cayuga aginst the wall?
RB20’s aren’t cheaper than SR’s. More expensive injectors, manifolds, need custom piping for front mount, downpipe, more expensive clutches. Why bother with an RB20 in a 240? You’re not making mega power over an SR20. Waste of time unless you get creative. Go RB26, that’s where the party is, or at least RB25. Once the displacement is up it’s easy to make more power. 300-310whp on 9lbs boost with some good tuning. Think about 13-15 lbs in good hands.
Let that man put in his motor. He already bought it and it’s HIS choice.
I’ve had both, I’ve beat both…I like 'em both.
As for a suggestion on pre-install maintenance I would change your oil pump (go N1). If your looking to change the headgasket and not make 300+hp the stock one will do. Surprisingly they hold quite well. Do your timing belt (A MUST) as it’s SOOOOO much easier to do it now, out of the car. You can pick up the HKS (pink) timing belt from most sponsors here on SON. I’d also do plugs, as RB20’s tend to creep to 12psi with the stock waste-gate and actuator. Throw in some NGK Copper BKR7E’s. They were the only plugs that didn’t give me troubles while boosting.
That’s pretty much it. All the other stuff you’ll just run into while driving the car…just like any other motor.
Clutch is a KA clutch. You don’t NEED any of the things you mentioned. Why bother? Because it’s not always about power. It’s about enjoyment and characteristics of an engine. I love the way a high revving 4AGE or a B16 feels…does it make the most power? No, it’s the feeling, sound etc…
RB26? Yeah right. Be prepared to fork mega dollars out to fix broken shit alll the time.
Why bother? A - it’s cheap. B- He’s bought it. C- Why not?
You don’t need any of that fancy stuff. Don’t even need a custom driveshaft. you can use the stock SMIC as well.
I don’t think that any of my RB20’s were a “waste of time” I had mega mega fun in both of them dude!
I don’t care for Monster Horsepower, never did!
So, in summary, do your timing belt and water pump and HAVE FUNNNNNNNNNN!!!
I have an RB20, and I have been forking out lots of money in things I didnt plan on buying lol. All I was saying was that he doesnt seem to know what he is getting into. I could care less what he does lol. Just offering some advice
I have been in both sr and rb, and rb is 10x better IMO. Which is why I bought it. Just cause its no SUPER powerhouse motor (rb26) doesn’t make it a “waste of time” I dont want 300hp+. I just wanted a fun high reving, kinda powerful motor. Thus why I bought an rb20.
well I have been in contact with a few people about parts.
Right now looking at timing kit, mls headgasket, arp studs, waterpump.
I am thinking about the oil pump while I am there just do I need an N1 or a stock replacement work too?
what would a stiffer spring have to do with anything?
---------- Post added at 02:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
Oh I know lots of what I am doing and getting into.
Just did a rb20det full swap into an e36 last week and this week it should be done.
All custom everything, mounts, wiring ect.
I have 10 years with doing motor work and car work, just never delt with this kind of swapping before and do not know much about rb’s[COLOR=“Silver”]
---------- Post added at 02:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------
You need that shiz if you build it up…You really don’t need anything, but it’s about peace of mind and saving in the long run. I KNOW what I would have done differently, and it’s a lot of things. I don’t expect many to agree with the extent, but then again, you got people blowing up their shit and wondering why. With the engine out it’s just better to address everything at once, power mods included.
Full rebuild
If not possible, headgasket, studs, any internal mods/work, timing belt, oil pump, water pump, JUN crank collars and any repairs for oil starvation issuses
That’s proper IMO. That’s what I would do if I could have my time back, among a million other things. I can’t though. And it’s apparent why it was suggested to me not to do some of those things because there is little money to be made on doing those things with the engine already out vs in the car. And I was a naive idiot to do things in that manner, so now I will end up having to do things the hard way over the next year instead of doing them the easier and proper way.
My advice as an RB owner. Take it however you want. If you plan to keep the car for the long term then do what I have suggested at least.
Well right now a full rebuilt would cost a shit load of money (money I don’t have) and as we all know it is not nessecary.
I just need to know if I plan on cranking up some psi what I need. (300hp sounds like a good number at the moment but would like it to be able to handle more)
MLS head gasket, arp head studs I was told for sure but also heard the mls gaskets leak…
f all the noise.
do a oem head gasket, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, proper spark plugs.
get sum bigger injectors for the rb25 turbo, get a tune, a good clutch, and rock out hard!
simple as that.
dont let the haters get to u, rb all day!
Full rebuild is $$$ man. If everyone could afford it easily, we’d all do it.
It would make a lot more sense to just do the maintenance and run it…it SHOULDN’T blow anytime soon even with hard useage…as long as you keep up with oil changes and let that shit warm up before beating it. If it does happen to let go years down the line, you’ll have had ample time to save for a rebuild by then.
Why go to the trouble and $$$ of a full rebuild if it aint broke in the first place? I surely don’t buy a motor assuming that it’s gonna blow. I buy a motor thinking it’s gonna last me! Otherwise, I’d go out and seek a blown motor. Im paying for a motor that works, I don’t wanna fix something that aint broke.
Seriously, don’t bother with a full rebuild unless you’re going for monster HP man. Don’t even bother with a MHG. seriously, don’t. Just run an OEM Head gasket, do your timing belt and water pump, get a clutch, some GTR injectors ($100), and CRANK THE EFFIN BOOST!!! Woot Woot! You’ll see a reliable 275 WHP with that setup ALL DAY LONG! No rebuild needed.
---------- Post added at 06:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:21 PM ----------
What’s wrong with your motor dude? I thought it was running pretty healthy no? What would you have done differently and what was not suggested to you?
---------- Post added at 06:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:23 PM ----------
You need nothing except for a head gasket, some GTR ($100) injectors, fuel pump and a clutch. Do it. After your timing belt water pump.
I had mega mega fun in both of them dude!
