i would swap to sr
FACE PALM x10. PALM IN FACE. OMGKILLME.
Good for you lol. I want people to run sr rather than rb. I dont want rb to be the new sr.
Anyways this thread it getting stupid. Get what you think you will need, if you want to buy a new aftermarket hg then go ahead. I think its pointless unless your running some 350+ hp. Stock hg are said to handle up to 300hpish. But do w/e you want, you seem to have your mind made up anyways. Not sure why your asking for help.
ALSO, if you did just swap a rb20 into a e36, shouldnt you know what needs to be changed? like comon, apparently you have already done it. =/
^ lol
RB will drop in with either Mckinney Mounts or the crossmember. While the motor is out of the car do the timing belt, idler, water pump, tensionor, tstat and all aux belts. If youll be drifting MSG ARC240 on how to correct the crank collar issue as it’s not the oil pimp that fails.
The RB20 will drop in a s13 with the mount kit or xmember (will need extra cutting on the hood) a stock KA rad and stock ka drive shaft. You will also need a stock RB20 dp or aftermarket dp. Other than that get the wiring done by HeatW or someone else who’s known to do them.
The RB20 is an easy swap to do if you know your shit.
pfff… what is all this freedom of choice BS?
people should mod their cars the way the community as a whole sees fit. There is no room for individuality here 
On a slightly serious note… anyone here have or know of anyone that has had a properly running and actually fast RB20 in an S-chasiss for more than 24 months of ownership?
If we surveyed the 1000+ SON’ers i bet we find out about maybe 1 or 2… there is a reason for that… just sayin’
LOL x2
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we will have to see how long this setup will last then wont we LOL
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Also the guy who we are doing the swap for is sorta cheaping out as he does not want to do any of that pre-prep shit before install he just wants the motor in and running.
I just want to make sure when I install the motor setup and whatnot that I will not be having any issues that I have read about.
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Does anyone have a set of mounts or a crossmember for sale???
I wanna find my old 240 
I bet it’s still running STRONG.
Ok just to clear shit up
I have a full rb20det motor set (tranny, wiring harness, ecu and whatnot)
I have a t28 turbo (hear bad shit about the stock ceramics)
Have an aftermarket downpipe
Will be making custom front mount piping to use my current front mount I have
Now from what I have all understood from this post was a few people say f*ck the RB go sr - well I say to flippin bad I have a good motorset with good numbers
I am going to do timing belt and tensioner for 100% sure.
Water pump and Oil pump if pricing is right.
New accessory belts if someone can find a listing for them (parts stores around here haven’t even hear of a skyline LOL)
Now I only need arp headstuds and MLS headgasket if I want to make more than 300hp???
My first one is still going strong. He actually swapped the motorset into a cleaner chassis.
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To run the T28, you’re gonna have to figure out a manifold. You can run a ceramic turbo np, just don’t crank the boost more than 17lbs. If you run a RB25 Turbo, it’s still ceramic but you’ll get 300 whp with 17lbs on that thing.
All he needs is a t3 to t2 adapter and everything SHOULD work. Might need to clock the turbo.
on that note…how many times have you heard of an RB20 in an S-Chassis letting go, spectacularly or otherwise? I’ve seen a handful of SR’s pop and heard of many more…
My motorset is healthy, I am not going to argue that. However it was suggested to me to wait on the maintenance because it was done in Japan 20K or so KM’s ago, instead of just doing it again and not worrying about it. I would have preferred to do it again instead of doing it next year. I’ll edit this post with more stuff later.
Yah I haven’t heard of many blowing up =/. ARC240 was giving me advice before I started my rb20 venture and he said they are they strongest rb motors in terms of least amount of problems internally. That guy knows his shit too. So I dunno, I always thought of these motors as bullet proof lol.
If I had all the money in the world, no doubt, I’d rebuild anything used as soon as I got it…BEFORE i dropped it in. In the real world, it makes more sense to me to run a healthy used motor until it NEEDS to be repaired. It makes no sense to me to throw money away when i could PLAY NOW for several YEARS or longer before needing a rebuild.
I just found out that an old Eagle Talon that I had is still on the road, healthy and strong. I swapped in a JDM motor into the car in 2001. It’s STILL running around on the same turbo, same motor, same everything except for timing belt and water pump. This is 120,000km later. The only thing that I did to that motor before dropping it in was to change the spark plugs and timing belt water pump. I also bought it off the ground. hahahahhah.
I’m willing to bet good money that the car I just sold will last another 5 years at least on that motorset, provided the new owner changes the oil and does not overboost it.
I just messured out the flanges and they are the same… Not sure what you 2 are talking about…
If an RB20 was lighter, I’d drop one of them high-revving sexy sounding motors in the Miaterr
I understand where you are coming feom. This is where our personal preference comes into play. I am in my car A LOT. Matter of fact I probably spend more time in my car than home. Sometimes I sleep in my car just to be in it-I am not even kidding. I breathe and shit this car enthusiam like nobodies business, so I need good reliability because of that. I daily driv my ca and want to keep headaches to a minimum. So the way I see it, doing pain in the ass maintenance work and mods while the engine is out is worth it due to reassurance that you won’t be breaking down because of it, and the fact that you save over the long run because you have taken care of it while the cost is lower. RB’s aren’t bullet proof. Some are phenomenal, some give without much warning. I do feel they hold up better than SR’s overall, but I would never look over the RB’s short comings because of that.
If I had my time back I would have addressed more maintenance and short comings even if it were not necessary immediately, simply because I want the peace of mind, and the initial higher cost is worth it to me. I love my RB too much to wanna see that thing down lol. The oil issue is also why I don’t fuck around with oil in this engine. I already dropped the Mobil 1 that came with it for Amsoil last month, and may drop it again for more Amsoil very soon. No cheap oils that suffer fom premature breakdown, or oils that tend to leave deposits goes into this engine. You will never see Quaker Etate synthetic in this engine, let alone a mineral oil. That’s just the sway I am with this thing.
I can’t seem to remember if they’re t3 flange or t2 lol
They are both T3 as I have an extra t3 manifold lying around for a ka24de
so direct bolt up it is…
Also what size are th GTR injectors you speek of Ronnie? Will i need a re-tune for those?