GTR injectors are low impedance, and RB20’s are high. For the love of God, don’t just drop in GTR injectors if you go that route.
Oh probably won’t if I upgrade I will be going with like 550cc or 650cc onlong that line with the Z32 MAF I have on the shelf.
GTR’s are a PITA and 440cc. Now if you go with S5 RX7 injectors, you get 550cc injectors and do not have to worry about impedance. There’s a 12 ohm difference between RB20 and GTR injectors. Why bother when you can use S5 injectors which flow more?
Yes you need a tune afterwards to accomodate the near doubled flow.
RB injectors are not cheap new if you want a fresh set. I’d go with S5’s and have them checked for flow and cleaned out. Best bang for your buck.
I don’t think I really give a shit about being “COOLER”
Like common I am the guy that owns a 300hp sunfire for some dumb reason LOL
More like the awsome sound and the reliability with getting my filling need for boost.
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Anyways back to topic. Anyone ever used these mounts? If so how were they… any good?
[QUOTE=Turbo_Crazy;2277191]I don’t think I really give a shit about being “COOLER”
Like common I am the guy that owns a 300hp sunfire for some dumb reason LOL
More like the awsome sound and the reliability with getting my filling need for boost.[COLOR=“Silver”]
Fixed.
lol, Read the reviews to mounts, some ebay ones wont fit properly. They are mounts, not to hard to get wrong. I have McKinney mounts and the owner (Mack) is a great guy, any problems and he will help you out no problem.
I would rather have a little more expensive product that the owner stands behind and will back it up, then some cheap ebay shit, up to you though.
Pictures dont work = FAIL
I have a water pump, bnib for $100 shipped if you want it. When I took mine out it was like new, so I didn’t end up using the one I bought. Also, damn straight the better it sounds the faster it is. here’s a vid of mine to keep you motivated
What are you doing for wiring?
Yury (Wiring Specialties) has ready to go plug and play harnesses, brand new with a start up guarantee.
Look him up. He is a sponsor on here now.
440CC and they are perfect as long as you run it with the resistor box. Wicked. Just enough fuel for 350WHP. Don’t go bigger unless you need it. GTR all the way.
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Do some research bro. Mobil 1 has gone down the shit tubes recently. They’ve changed production for the worse. Quaker State Synthetic is a fucking sick oil and have tested FAR better than Mobil 1 Synthetics. And Amsoil…??? Don’t even get me started. Their claims of 20,000km is cockamammie. Dude. Have you looked at a motor after 20,000km of running Amsoil? No oil can withstand that kind of heat for that long without losing it’s properties.
And dude, I switched over to Quaker state beginning of last year and goddamn is that shit good. We tore down a friends 4G63T to upgrade motor after 50,000km of running quaker state with changes every 5000km and Ill be godammned if that shit didn’t look new. This was with track km within those changes too.
Oh, and it’s pretty common knowledge that an RB20 is less prone to grenading than a RB25 or an RB26.
Mobil 1 was what Riyad put in. It held up good ove 7000 KM, with mixed city, highway, and touge races and it came out good. Darker honey colour, wasn’t blackenend at all. I can’t complain about how well it held up.
Amsoil’s 20K is top ups. In other words, if you top it up it can hold up to 20K without being dropped. I looked into oils and Amsoil is tops in pretty much everything, and that’s why I run it. It holds up well above and beyond what anyone here could put it through. If you can prove Quaker State is better than Amsoil then go for it. Quaker State was never a high rating oil.
Hey Fobwall…ummm, like, is the reason you dislike RB20’s and the owners that decide to run RB20’s in their S chassis because you think they’re just trying to be different?
I can’t seem to figure it out. If you genuinely believe that it’s a worse motor than an SR20, than I get it…but every post I see from you regarding an RB20 in an S Chassis pertains to you adding some sort of dig about them trying to be “unique” or “different” or “cool” or “just for the sound” or whatever.
Have you driven a well setup S Chassis with a healthy RB20 in it? If you have and you still are clueless as to why someone would choose that over an SR20, than wow. If you haven’t and are just going on paper specs and “what you’ve heard” and “what you think” without actually having experienced it then maybe you should go drive one! Cuz seriously dude, they’re a good motor. An SR20 is also a good motor. They have different pros and cons. Like everything else.
Lots of people are throwing RB20’s in nowadays, it’s not to be different. It happens to be different to the most common swap there is, but the RB20 is growing in popularity FOR A REASON. Not “just because”
Some people may do it just to be different, they don’t count. Doing things just to be different is silly. Most people aren’t. Most people do it for some pretty valid reasons.
I chose to do another RB20 over an SR20 in my last car for a few reasons. I’ve done both swaps and have owned cars with both motors.
- I prefer having 6 cylinders over 4.
- I prefer the flatter torque curve.
- I prefer how smooth the motor is at higher revs. (ie, how unstressed the motor feels at close to redline or at redline and at fast highway cruising speeds)
- I prefer the quicker spooling that 6 cylinders with a smaller turbo gives me.
- I prefer the sound the motor makes. (the sound of a car is part of the whole experience. It adds to my enjoyment of a vehicle tenfold. I realize not everyone feels the same.)
- I paid a lot less than I would have an SR. Overall with FMIC and DP.
- I prefer the higher OEM redline.
- I prefer the throttle response that I get from having 6 cylinders over 4.
- I prefer the way it looks in my engine bay.
There are cons too:
- 2 more spark plugs to worry about.
- 2 more injectors to worry about.
- Parts are not quite as readily available, though still easy to source.
- Naysayers.
- The extra front end weight.
- The extra room that it takes up under the hood.
I just like it better, does it make it a better motor? No. To me, it is, but that’s all subjective.
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Oil colour doesn’t mean everything. Quaker State went through a revamp about three years ago and their full synthetic line is 100% esther based and goes through the same treatment process as all the top names do. Mobil 1 used to go through the same process but no longer does. I have seen motors let go with Amsoil, my own WRX included. Two weeks after I sold my car to a dude, it dropped a valve or two. He drove it way way way easier than I did. It was on 3000km since it’s last oil change. I did some reading about it and discovered an alarming number of horror stories from other turbo car guys running Amsoil. I’ve also seen a B18C5 that was running Amsoil burn a hole through a piston at it’s first track day on a fresh rebuild. He was on his third oil change. He did two oil changes with Dino oil and switched out to Amsoil before the track day.
I dunno man, I go by what I see. Not necessarily what I read. I know for a fact that Quaker State’s new Esther Synthetic line is badass and stands up to some wicked abuse with very little wear on engine internals after prolonged useage. That was a motor that had seen a lot of abuse but had regular oil changes with Quaker state.
I’m not going to try to prove that Quaker State is better rated than Amsoil. I’m going to tell you from personal experience with taking engines apart and blowing engines up that Amsoil is not all that and is definitley not an oil that will give me peace of mind anymore. I’ve seen what I put my cars through, (you see how I drive. 
hahahha) and I will tell you that I’ve been running Quaker State with not a care or concern at all. No overheating, good oil pressure, always a healthy colour, always a good consistency, even when I check at the track after coming off a hot session…still a nice nice consistency.
End of the day, all oil is good, dino oil is good as long as you change it often and let the car warm up before hoofing on it. I trust certain oils more than others and definitely do not go by just what I read. Go talk to an engine builder and get the skinny on what he’s seen and from what cars running what oils. They have seen it all and I go by what they say.
Ronnie that post is epic. I agree with you in every aspect… but also I like the fact that an RB20 can make 300hp easily without stressing internals. Adding to this, an RB25 turbo is direct bolt on and the RB20s run rich enough from the factory to run with that turbo and no tune.
That is all true, and I will agree with you there. In all honesty, the RB and 2JZ are held in such high regard for a reason. They’re reknowed for being able to take a lot on stock internals. There’s no arguing that. The RB in particular doesn’t require a lot to make power and responds to mods really well. Your RB20 S13 sold me on RB’s. As much as I love the engine, the initial cost to build an RB20 in an S13 is higher due to more custom work required over SR. I embelished a bit about it being a waste of time. Truth be told, I kind of like how it hasn’t been bandwagoned nearly as much. I actually didn’t sell my S14 because I didn’t want to not have the low end torque that an RB provides. The problem with this engine is that I have no desire to have anything else.
You and a few others know this anyway.
I have stock boost and shit on Z’s and G35’s all day ffs.
Most important point: chicks dig RB’s. Seriously. They hear a man car and look at you with a “will you have my babies?” look. Of course, we’re car guys and we can’t be spending parts money on huggies and Gerber food, when we can barely afford to build these damn things. This is truth.
Coles notes: RB’s are a piece of shit still, SR’s are better.
.
To be honest, even I wouldn’t go as far as to call that video “motivation”.
Sorry.
lol @ “i would swap to an sr”.
The ultimate son240sx response ™(C)(LTD)(INC)
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Says the guy who went through like 5-6 SRs blowing up on him lol
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I used to want to swap an RB20DET in instead of the SR… but with my car’s goals as well as weight obsession, the extra front end weight doesn’t dig it for me.
I remember one cayuga lap day I was in a session against an RB20 powered with my KA powered (lol) 240… and I passed the guy every and each time… now he was completely stock… and my car is stripped out/setup for track… but it felt slow… although I love the sound of inline6s… I’m sure if it was more powerful and better setup it would put my car to shame due to my lack of power.
That being said there are plenty RB20 and RB25 powered s cars that are tracked and do well despite the extra weight… example this guy I know from australia, nickname is jungle on youtube, silviaforums (australian) and nissanroadracing:
His car kicks ass He went from RB20DET to RB25DET in search of more power though but developed the car gradually.
---------- Post added at 10:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 AM ----------
I used to want to swap an RB20DET in instead of the SR… but with my car’s goals as well as weight obsession, the extra front end weight doesn’t dig it for me.
I remember one cayuga lap day I was in a session against an RB20 powered with my KA powered (lol) 240… and I passed the guy every and each time… now he was completely stock… and my car is stripped out/setup for track… but it felt slow… although I love the sound of inline6s… I’m sure if it was more powerful and better setup it would put my car to shame due to my lack of power.
That being said there are plenty RB20 and RB25 powered s cars that are tracked and do well despite the extra weight… example this guy I know from australia, nickname is jungle on youtube, silviaforums (australian) and nissanroadracing:
His car kicks ass He went from RB20DET to RB25DET in search of more power though but developed the car gradually.
Watch his videos for some motivation 
Don’t listen to the naysayers seriously…
Ronnie. Relax.
I don’t care what motor anyone has in their 240s to be honest.
I just made that for fun because of the reasons he gave for wanting to go with an RB20.
The motor doesn’t make a car, the driver does.
To use your own examples on oils, it’s the same with going RB20 or SR20, everyone has their own opinions and preferences and will choose whichever works best for them.
You have no idea how many times someone has said to me “I’m putting a SKYLINE motor in my car!” And I want to picard myself whenever I hear that because it could be three different motors, but I guess they like to say Skyline because it sounds cooler? And you might say that it’s not about being different but whenever I ask them why they want to do that, want to take a guess on what their answer is?
The responses I get are always a combination of these:
- Everyone has an SR20
- RBs sound so much better
- It has six cylinders
I don’t tell people that I have a JDM 180SX motor in my car. I just call it an SR20.
I almost put a JDM S14 KOUKI motor in my JDM R32 last night because I was so goddamn fed up with the SKYLINE motor.
I miss my gas mileage too.
But it runs good again, so whatever.
In summary,
I like motors that run, and don’t cost me money.
I hate working on motors.