Test fit the motor without the tranny attached, i was really hoping i could modify the firewall so i could bolt/unbolt the transmission without pulling the engine.
two things would need to be done,
rear motor mount to support the weight of the block, the mounts are so far forward in this setup the block sags (its being propped up in the picture)
the brake lines would need to be re-routed higher up the firewall and that’s just a huge pain in the ass.
Realized after i took the above posts picture i put the motor mounts on backwards
Lifted the block back up and put them on the correct way, i put longer studs on the motor mounts too so now i can tilt the block backwards (with help of the hoist) and attach the transmission without pulling the motor!
I put the stock radiator back on (for now, still tracking down an aluminum one that will fit) and attached the trans cooler to it.
Wired up all the fans, headlights / taillights & fuel pump. Everything works.
Need a new linelock switch unfortunately, but that will come later.
It’s been roughly one year since I began the 396 build and it’s now coming to a close.
aluminum radiator arrived a few days ago.
I picked up the last piece from competition transmission this afternoon.
Th350 9’’ tailshaft
9310 Intermediate Sprag Race
Machined Clutch Pistons & Extra Clutches
forward Manual valve body
& full line pressure 100% of the time.
2 friends came over to help me finish it up, everything is 100% together and ready to fire at this point in time.
I thought my battery was dead, but it turns out the +Pos going to the starter slipped out of is clamp. The car will be running and driving tomorrow morning, i didn’t want to wake the neighborhood with open headers tonight.
I’ll fix the video I cleaned up my channel, sorry guys
also yeah engine spun a bearing and the crank will need to be turned.
I was following a scrap truck in the high winds and some of his steel smacked my oil pan and punctured it. I did stop to check my tires & front bumper but i didn’t look under the car. didn’t notice the oil pressure drop right away, 4 miles down the road later the engine just quit.
I swear this fucking car is cursed, im trying to get insurance to cover it, the damage isn’t that bad I’ll need 2 rods and a piston. Parts are under 150$ and getting the crank turned should be less than a hundred.
Updated - - -
Oh, and in other news the transmission from competition trans is fucked up and I need to take it back.
under load the transmission will not shift 1-2 over 3000 rpm but if I start in 2nd and shift 2-3 its perfect.
After speaking to carl he thinks the valve body is bad and is replacing it no charge