I have one of those cube things laying around. How do you use it?
well, youre supposed to put it on a wrench, like a socket, cuz it has that little square opening in each side. the little pins on each of the sides of cube are there to fit into the two dips in the pistons. youre supposed to manually press that into the piston really hard and turn it at the same time. kind of like a screw, but REALLY tight. it doesnt really work well. we tried it for about 30-40 minutes on my brakes. total progress was like 1-2mm. then we went and returned it, got that brake kit and using the tool in it it was done in 30 seconds
yea the cube tool goes on the end of a 3/8 extension and ratchet. push and twist.
i have the above pictured tool. works the tits.
Ahhh I see. Thanks.
Who makes that red tool kit? We need a new one, Jon had to break our heavy duty spreader.
The one i posted is from amazon.com. advance has one with a pipe bender in it. its for bending little brake lines
I have that red tool kit!
I’m definitely okay then. I didn’t even know it was a caliper turn in kit. I’ve seen it around the garage (dad bought it).
Well I just replaced the rear calipers, rotors, and pads. We got all the air out of the system and I’m ready to pull out of the garage. I start the car, and the EBrake light is on (when EBrake is not engaged). I raise the e-brake and it’s MUCH better than before. Starts clicking right away.
So I’m going to go back out there and loosen the e-brake until I see the light go off.
EDIT: Rear brakes are 100% operational. The adjustment bolt is in a great spot, no interior dismantling required. I loosened it a bit and everything is honky dory. Now I just gotta wait for my front rotors to arrive and I can do that. The fronts are a piece of cake.
Thanks for the help guys. I used the caliper tool and adjusted the bolt and it’s all good.
doubt its on for th eebrake ,bleed al 4 wheels it prolly tripped the prop valve for the brakes
We did bleed. You think it would still do that? After I adjusted the e-brake it went off.
why did you need to bleed the brakes?
Because I disconnected the brake lines from the rear calipers.
Did you change your calipers as well? didnt u clamp the lines?
Yeah I did. I changed everything in the rear. I have the pads for the front but the front rotors never came in (I expected them to be in the same shipment as the rears), so I didn’t do the front end yet.
And no I didn’t clamp them. It takes me 2 seconds to swap the lines to the new calipers.
ohhhh, okay, youre doing a complete swap then. I gotcha. I just changed rotors and pads on mine, my calipers are tip top.
Yeah one of my rear calipers was partially seized. Both of them were HARD to get off the rotor even after unscrewing everything. I had to beat them off with a hammer. The new ones slid on nice and easy even with thicker, newer pads and a slightly thicker rotor (since it’s new).
I still have to call the place I got my Brembo OE’s from and see why my fronts never arrived. One or both of my front rotors got warped during one of my summertime back roads flying events. My brakes get a workout when I drive through backwoods Coeymans and Voorhesville.
just curious where you bought brakes and what you got for rotors and pads.
I got the following:
Reman’ed Rear Calipers (“new”) off a member on Maxima.org - $100
Brembo “Blanks” OEM (front and rear) from ImportRP.com - $174.00
PBR/Axxis Ultimate Pads (front and rear) from ImportRP.com - $86.00
The calipers look like ones you get on EBay. As long as they work, I don’t care.
I used to run KVR Brake Pads from AlamoMotorSports.com and loved them, but decided to give PBR/Axxis a try since a lot of guys on Maxima.org swear by them and Hawk pads.
Oh and ImportRP has free shipping on orders over $100. They are a Maxima.org sponsor, which is how I found them.
what type of compound is in that pad?
“[FONT=Arial]The PBR Axxis Ultimate brake pads feature a special Kevlar® and ceramic-strengthened formula with a high co-efficient of friction and excellent high temperature wear and fade resistance. Designed for ultra-high performance driving and hard-braking applications, PBR Axxis Ultimate pad users will benefit with extreme stopping power and high resistance to brake fade at high temperatures, meaning the decrease in friction over repeated heavy duty stops, as the temperature increases, is minimal. PBR Axxis Ultimate pads boast a maximum continuous working temperature of 550° C (1022° F degrees). Consistent throughout its operating temperature range, you’ll get dependable, predictable stops time after time while maintaining a solid pedal feel.”
[COLOR=Black]The KVR pads I used to buy were a Kevlar/Carbon Fiber mix. I liked those pads and if these don’t turn out, I’ll go back to KVR.[/COLOR]
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